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Discussion starter · #21 ·
No no, I am running a battery and not wasting your time:) problem is I haven't bought the battery so I have been trying to sort the wiring prior so it's a simple bolt up and go. I just moved to a new house so this was a bad time to start this project but...ain't that always the way?!

I hooked up up a test battery and tested the front light with a brake light and it all seems to be working. Just found a spare headlight bulb so hopefully, it will shine nice and bright so I can stop second guessing myself and wrap the damn harness already:)
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Well, its all wired up now. I wrapped the harness last night and routed it in the place I think will work. I am sure there is a simpler way to wire it but I wanted to keep it all removable and to NOT hack into what I have existing. Would be cool to be able to transfer this should I fancy a different street going Z:)

I am going to order that Ballistics battery, headlight lens and 35w/55w bulb. After all of that, I will set about sorting the tail and blinkers. I dont want to get too ahead of myself.

Cant wait to see it all working though!!!
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Will do. Since I moved on the 22nd, I havent had internet, just my phone. Back at work now so FINALLY can get things updated. Now my problem is that I cant remember exactly how I did the harness to update my diagram. Of course, right. Not that I need it but I like having everything sorted...especially since I will be doing another harness for a friend. I made this harness sooooo over complicated because I wanted to be able to revert back to "off-road only" should I ever want to. I wanted the harness(es) to be able to be pulled out in sections so and NOTHING had to be cut to be removed. Also, wanted it to be as neat as it could. Not sure how well I did the that last one but it seems to fit and now that its wrapped, looks nice. Have a look at it installed.
Image


The battery will go behind the missing number plate. I am building a custom number plate bracket that will both hold the plate and house the battery.

Image


This is the harness(es) before I wrapped it being test fitted and checked. (dont mind the ghetto battery and visegrip hook up!!! haha) Its all a pretty tight fit under the seat, mostly due to the battery fuse I used. Its a stock Honda unit that also holds a spare. Really cool except its under the seat and impossible to get to unless the seat is removed. Oh well. Maybe I will redo that when the battery goes in.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Here is what I think is the correct diagram. Will confirm of course. I have ghosted out the speedo bucket with speedo light, turn indicator, and high beam indicator until I figure that who think out. The wires are there for when I do at least.
 
#28 · (Edited)
66Cooper said:
Here is what I think is the correct diagram. Will confirm of course. I have ghosted out the speedo bucket with speedo light, turn indicator, and high beam indicator until I figure that who think out. The wires are there for when I do at least.
View attachment 129599
Click to expand...
Your drawing has your horn w/12v+ (light green)connected to the load side of your Horn switch which is correct, but your diagram also has your horn 12v- (Dark Green) connected in parallel w/the 12+ off of your ignition which is incorrect. The 12- (should be Dark Green rather then the Black shown in your diagram) wire should be connected (paralleled) to the rest of your Dark Green wires. Jons Diagram is actually spot on outside of the color difference. Great info and well explained Jon.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
You know what, that might be a mistake in my drawing only and NOT on my bike. I will have to take a look again. I recently changed that green wire to black and rerouted it to the black on my diagram as that is what I thought I did on my bike. I might have just drew it wrong but now you all have me thinking.

The horn did work at one point but was VERY quiet. It was a spare from my 81 PA50 and I tried to adjust the little screw on the back but only managed a little squeak out it. Tried the one I pulled from the Elite80 and that didnt work either. Wondering if I do have the wires all messed up.

To test the horn, I will hook it up to the volt meter and see what happens when I press it.

Its been amazing to have so much help on here. Jon is a wealth of information and everyone else adding in is just great! Cant wait till I can post this one done and fully functional.
 
#30 ·
SwollenTripod702 said:
Your drawing has your horn w/12v+ (light green)connected to the load side of your Horn switch which is correct, but your diagram also has your horn 12v- (Dark Green) connected in parallel w/the 12+ off of your ignition which is incorrect. The 12- (should be Dark Green rather then the Black shown in your diagram) wire should be connected (paralleled) to the rest of your Dark Green wires. Jons Diagram is actually spot on outside of the color difference. Great info and well explained Jon.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the fine compliments!
While I have drawn many diagrams in full color, 66Cooper drew this one, then I modded his headlight and stator wires to reflect an all-DC accessory system.

Jon Pardue
Florida
 
Discussion starter · #31 · (Edited)
Just so I 100% here, that black horn wire in my diagram needs to go to the green (ground) wires, correct? So, the power comes into the horn switch via the black wire and the power gets delivered to the horn (when button is pushed) via the light green wire. What completes the circuit would be the the (now black) wire is grounded...correct?

Jon, what program do you use to draw your diagrams? I use adobe Illustrator so everything is vector and crisp.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Having started computer drawing long before Photoshop 1.0 existed, or Adobe for that matter, I use various antique drawing programs... nothing Adobe, vector art only, pushed out in PDF.

Like this for the CT70 K0

All stock Honda horns I have ever seen, from big to little bikes, new to old, are powered all the time on one terminal... horn button grounds the other horn terminal to complete the circuit.

Jon Pardue
Florida
 
#33 ·
66Cooper said:
Just so I 100% here, that black horn wire in my diagram needs to go to the green (ground) wires, correct? So, the power comes into the horn switch via the black wire and the power gets delivered to the horn (when button is pushed) via the light green wire. What completes the circuit would be the the (now black) wire is grounded...correct?

Absolutely correct.
Click to expand...
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Right, so how does that work for this application then??? It appears that the black power wire goes to the horn switch and when the button is pushed, sends power to the horn?? Assuming I have the diagram above wrong and the black wire that comes from the horn and ties into the black wire and should in fact go to ground (switch I am pretty sure it does in my harness) how does it work???

I thought that the light green wire gets "hot" when you push the button and the other side (black) is grounded. Are you saying that the black should have power and the switch should ground to complete the circuit?
 
#36 ·
It shouldn't matter what the polarity is. Although, to make the "colors" from the horn make more sense, you could tie the black horn wire to the switch (12+) and the green (12-) to ground. It should work regardless as long as one terminal on your horn gets 12+ and the other goes to ground (12-).
 
#38 · (Edited)
JPardue said:
All stock Honda horns I have ever seen, from big to little bikes, new to old, are powered all the time on one terminal... horn button grounds the other horn terminal to complete the circuit. Jon Pardue Florida
Click to expand...
True. I was just using his initial drawing w/ the horn switch being fed w/ 12v+. The problem in the latest drawing could also be remedied by simply taking the black wire from the horn switch shown to be connected to 12v+, disconect it from the 12v+, and ground it. Essentially switching the negative portion of the circuit rather then the positive, just like Jon described.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Ok, making a bit more progress. My new, glass headlight for my 84 shroud came in he other day. Also, my ballistics evo2 50 battery just arrived today. Very excited to get over to the shop and fit. See if all this hard work has paid off!!
 

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Discussion starter · #40 ·
By the way, this battery is amazing. I can't believe how small and light it is. It got me thinking. If I ever have time when all this is over, I would love to take all the parts I added to my bike to make it street legal and weight it to see how much I have added. Not that I am crazy about weight but would interesting just to know.
 
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66Cooper
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