[JPardue]

Instead of "single ending" the Baja Design stator by grounding one White leg, consider going all DC. Feed both Whites into a 12 Volt full-wave rectifier/Voltage regulator (such as used with Lifan engines), let the resulting regulated DC Voltage charge the 12 Volt battery, and run everything from fused, switched DC battery power. Forget the AC-powered headlight, everything will run bright at idle on DC, the blinkers will flash with authority, etc.

By grounding one end of a balanced AC lighting coil, you only tap into half the power generated; the headlight will dim at idle, and what's left for rectification to DC for the other lamps and battery charging will be insufficient until road RPM is sustained.

For someone just needing a basic headlight for offroad use, the AC headlight running 1/2 wave AC power is probably a great, simple system. Your bike with street farkles needs the extra juice provided by going full wave AC to a rectifier/regulator, and all DC circuits.

Very nice wiring diagram you drew.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

I don't have a wiring diagram for the Elite 80... that may have an AC regulator. Got a copy I can view?

 

[JPardue]

The regulator shown in your diagram uses a design that has proven over and over to NOT work well. Several chinese regulators have an AC shunt on one input, and the concept is to connect the headlight to that shunted AC leg. Its usually the Yellow leg, following Honda's AC powered headlight color scheme. In practice, the rectifier/regulator gets unbalanced power, the headlight is dim at idle, and the battery and DC circuits never get all the Volts possible (and needed) for good performance. I have covered this topic many times on the honda_clone group.

With that balanced lighting coil, ideally you feed both legs into a full wave rectifier/regulator, with nothing to interrupt AC into the regulator. Wire the headlight beam selector Yellow, to switched DC from the battery.

Lots of folks have followed this advice and had great success with it. Since the rectifier/regulator you have already has the dual inputs, its likely a full wave unit, and all you need to do is rewire the headlight beam selector Yellow to the switched, fused ignition wire.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

Deleted the last post because I connected the wires wrong. Oops, now I got it right.

Thanks for the fine compliment!

Modded your diagram to show the headlight selector switch Yellow connected to switched, fused Brown. This mod powers the headlight from the battery.

Both engine Whites are connected to the regulator you already have. This mod connects full wave AC from the stator, to the lighting and DC circuits.

Try it, most likely it will work.

If your regulator does not work, TBoltUSA stocks a regulator that will work, and I can show you a link.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

I'm a bit confused by your wire colors, so for clarity this is the explanation:

The two Whites from the engine, carry AC generated in the stator, into the rectifier/regulator AC inputs

The rectifier/regulator outputs a ground through the Green wire on your diagram.

The rectifier/regulator outputs + DC power on the Red.

The Red power wire from the rectifier feeds the battery (normally direct, not through the fuse).

The Red fused power wire feeds the ignition switch.

When the ignition switch is ON, Brown carries DC+ fused, switched power to all lights, blinker, and horn.

The headlight Yellow gets rewired: connect it to Brown, which will power headlight with DC.

All AC power is now between engine and regulator.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

Not sure where you measured... DC Volts at the battery? AC Volts going into the regulator?

Check DC Volts across the battery: with no load on the system, and a viable battery connected, you should measure 13.4 to 13.8 Volts DC across the battery terminals at a very fast idle, around 2,500 RPM.

If you add a headlight, tail light, instrument/dash lamp, and viable battery charging, you should measure 13.4 Volts DC minimum across the battery at fast idle.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

You would have still measured more than 8 Volts DC at the headlight wires. Without a meter you connect a 12 Volt turn signal bulb, and "see" the Watts at work, or not.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

Yes do it, my opinion: run 1156 turn signal bulbs, an 1157 stop/tail bulb, and a 55 Watt H3 headlight bulb. Get at least a 4 Amp hour or greater battery in there, and that mighty 110 Watt stator will happily power everything with some overhead. Run a Voltage regulator, and run the headlight all the time.

Don't do it, my opinion: a 100 Watt headlight makes too much heat, leaves no stator overhead, will heat wiring and switches, (needs a relay) and is illegal on American roads (not that you would get busted, or that your stator could hope to actually power it for long).

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

Your wiring diagram shows a battery.
All my replies involve you running a battery.
If you are not going to run a battery, then disregard every word I have written, and my wiring diagram mods as well.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

Interested to hear how it works out.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

Your drawing has your horn w/12v+ (light green)connected to the load side of your Horn switch which is correct, but your diagram also has your horn 12v- (Dark Green) connected in parallel w/the 12+ off of your ignition which is incorrect. The 12- (should be Dark Green rather then the Black shown in your diagram) wire should be connected (paralleled) to the rest of your Dark Green wires. Jons Diagram is actually spot on outside of the color difference. Great info and well explained Jon.

Thanks for the fine compliments!
While I have drawn many diagrams in full color, 66Cooper drew this one, then I modded his headlight and stator wires to reflect an all-DC accessory system.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

Having started computer drawing long before Photoshop 1.0 existed, or Adobe for that matter, I use various antique drawing programs... nothing Adobe, vector art only, pushed out in PDF.

Like this for the CT70 K0

All stock Honda horns I have ever seen, from big to little bikes, new to old, are powered all the time on one terminal... horn button grounds the other horn terminal to complete the circuit.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

It shouldn't matter what the polarity is. Although, to make the "colors" from the horn make more sense, you could tie the black horn wire to the switch (12+) and the green (12-) to ground. It should work regardless as long as one terminal on your horn gets 12+ and the other goes to ground (12-).

Correct.

Jon Pardue
Florida

 

[JPardue]

A traditional battery can be a little 4 Amp hour unit, even a 2 Amp hour will do. And it won't fry if it gets discharged, it will simply recharge. Hang in there, you are just about to have it fixed.