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Tb20mm carb works great

2.3K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  rowangarner  
#1 ·
Just installed a 20mm carb from tbolt usa, barely had to adjust anything and it runs great. Heard horror stories about jets breaking and needing to be fished out, but i dont feel the need to change from the jets it came with. Also it was pretty good price. Im sure theres better out there, but i approve of this part.
 
#3 · (Edited)
What was your application??
Yeah thats my question too, whats the rest of your setup? I have one on a stock head 88 engine and it runs great. I had one on my 70 with the 88 race head kit and I hated it Must have had 10 hours into searching for the perfect setting but never found it. My buddy runs one on his TB 108 race head and it runs great. No idea why that was.
 
#4 ·
Stock engine, small pipe reducer where the muffler used to be (straight piped while maintaining decent back pressure) and a HUGE air filter. Sometimes youre just not lucky, it is a low cost part. Mine just idles a teensy bit too high, just enough that if the air temperature is just right the bike wont sit still in gear. But thats just because the neighbors complained about noise before i got it perfect. The back tire chirps every time i shift (im 210 lbs.) and if i wring it out i cant keep the front wheel on the ground right after shifts, so its got good strong midrange. Im switching to a better head and cam once funds are appropriate... Will keep you updated.
 
#5 ·
Sweet, yeah I like ptech have also used this carb on several applications and can personally tell you I had the best performance with stock heads and 88 kit. The 88 kit RH is ok with the carb but needs a bigger carb for that set up. As far as the idle goes it should be a pretty easy fix, just adjust your idle screw CCW a 1/4 turn or so.
 
#8 ·
So i got it to idle, but then it chokes up on throttle. If i adjust to be able to ride and rev, it wont idle. I probably need to get different jets. I tried adjusting the float level and idle screw in different ways but no luck

Stock 50cc w pipe reducer where muffler was, and a huge paper filter w foam wrap
 
#9 ·
More than likely your pilot is going to be small. Adjust your air screw 3/4 turns out from fully closed, that will be the richest you can get it. See if it gets better or worse. If it still bogs try moving the needle clip to the bottom slot, that will richen it and see if it gets better or worse. One adjustment at a time. Make sure you ride to test and not just rev it on a stand. Shouldn't have to adjust the the float level.
 
#10 ·
Great Carb..

I actually purchased a Second To have as a Spare in case I have any problems when Racing..

I bought my bike used with TB 88cc Kit ..I “think” I have a Race Head as it has TB on it and the cooling fins look bigger then my Sons stock 50 head.

Stock Jets Still Installed...in Tb20mm carb


The bike did not run right when I got it....3rd gear bogging..

The Bike Came With a Metal Mesh Air Filter.


.....

Carb Cleaning..Did Not Fix It...(plans were to change jets..

At a Race First Time With Bike On Track..

Installed a RED FOAM AIR FILTER and New Spark Plug..the Bikes a BEAST

Fixed,runs great.

Has RED FOAM AIR FILTER ON BIKE NOW.








http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/slideshow/NJMINIGP 04 06 2013 OPENING DAY
 
#11 ·
Great Carb..

I actually purchased a Second To have as a Spare in case I have any problems when Racing..

I bought my bike used with TB 88cc Kit ..I “think” I have a Race Head as it has TB on it and the cooling fins look bigger then my Sons stock 50 head.

Stock Jets Still Installed...in Tb20mm carb

The bike did not run right when I got it....3rd gear bogging..

The Bike Came With a Metal Mesh Air Filter.

.....

Carb Cleaning..Did Not Fix It...(plans were to change jets..

At a Race First Time With Bike On Track..

Installed a RED FOAM AIR FILTER and New Spark Plug..the Bikes a BEAST

Fixed,runs great.

Has RED FOAM AIR FILTER ON BIKE NOW.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chr...BUM/2013 PICTURE ALBUM/538425_515683878476983_1879050976_n_zps5265472f.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chr...JMINIGP 04 06 2013 OPENING DAY/NJMINIGPOPENINGDAY462013014_zpsf932fe5f.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chr...m/user/Chris1/media/AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA/88cc0206_zps5862ca36.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chr...LBUM/2013 PICTURE ALBUM/88cc/XR88newwheelStephenpiper22013_zps901785c9.jpg.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chris1/slideshow/NJMINIGP%2004%2006%202013%20OPENING%20DAY
Have you checked your spark plug? Stock jetting is really lean IMO
 
#16 ·
Thats a great chart.. need to print it out and put it on my fridge..


I just wanted to note:

Thats what the plug looks like after 1 hard day of racing..
 
#17 ·
Thats a great chart.. need to print it out and put it on my fridge..

I just wanted to note:

Thats what the plug looks like after 1 hard day of racing..
Plug readings are only useful for checking to make sure the main jet is the correct size. Looking at the tip of the plug is okay, but what you want to do is look down inside the plug where the insulator meets the body. To do this you need good lighting and a magnifying glass or jewelers loupe. Some guys machine off the threads. You're looking for the color of the ring around the insulator. White = lean, black = rich. There is no optimal color to shoot for. If you ride mostly at WFO, set it up to run rich on the main. If you occasionally hit full throttle for a second or two, set it up lean. To do this you need to do a WOT-chop run. That way all other circuits won't contaminate the reading.

Everything else has to be tuned either by seat of the pants or on a dyno measuring the air-fuel mixture.