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TB 88 Race Head Kit Overheating

4.1K views 28 replies 18 participants last post by  pandrew3  
#1 ·
I just installed this race head 88 kit, I believe it comes with the 20mm carb,

after a couple quick runs the head and cylinder is sizzling hot,

- checked the plugs its definately lean all white

- i thought these come jetted rich ??

- what make of jets fit this 20mm carb I think its a shewney ??

- Hv oil pump is installed, pipe, hd clutch etc. etc.

- i also put race fuel in it 111 oct. didnt have any regular around didnt think it would matter since its got the high compression piston ??
 
#8 ·
ryan2282 said:
Did you drill out the oil passage when installing the pump? And for jetting you should be around a 95 main and somehting in the 30's for a pilot on that setup.
I drilled it out to 2mm, I had a regular 88 kit on it before with out the bigger head and it ran cool.

Does anyone know what make of jets fit in these 20mm shewney carbs??
 
#13 ·
he would tell a huge difference if timing was off by one tooth... mine was off by one tooth and didnt run even decent...about half the power of a stock 50. Sounds like its just running real lean. Lean it out as much as you can on the carb with the air/fuel screw...that migh be enough to fix it if it isnt running that bad... and yah, they suggest running pump gas so that would be a good change too...
 
#18 ·
whatme said:
reading is our friend


i saw that, but air cooled motors are sizzling hot after a few hard runs anyway... what i'm asking is if it's heat seizing, starting to bog out or melting things



i haven't seen any air cooled ( or water for that matter ) that you can touch it after making a few passes.



I"m just asking him to be more specific about why he thinks it's TOO hot
 
#20 ·
I don't know exactly how hot is too much. When ran hard both my 131 gpx and 88 get around 250 degrees on the right side of the cylinder and the head is around 200.

My 88 was getting extremely hot when I first put it together b/c the oil hole was blocked off and the top end was screaming for oil. I had to replace my cam on that one. I also tore it down and replaced rings, valve seals, and gaskets.
 
#21 ·
turboglenn said:
i haven't seen any air cooled ( or water for that matter ) that you can touch it after making a few passes.


well i rode my stock cfr50 for a good twenty minutes and felt the engine as we loaded it up and it wasnt all that hot.... just real warm. And i dont know what kind of water cooled engines you have been around but our, my dad and i's, bored sv take a good two laps around our local street track before it gets to hot to touch. not that any of this really matters... just saying...
 
#22 ·
whatme said:
well i rode my stock cfr50 for a good twenty minutes and felt the engine as we loaded it up and it wasnt all that hot.... just real warm. And i dont know what kind of water cooled engines you have been around but our, my dad and i's, bored sv take a good two laps around our local street track before it gets to hot to touch. not that any of this really matters... just saying...


i hear ya..there's more mass and a lager radiator to dissapate heat on a SV, but when you get into smaller engines there's less metal there and therfore it heats up faster. one reason teh stock crf might not have gotten as warm is the fact of having a cast iron cylinder taking longer to heat (witch is why cast iron is harder to weld)...plus the smaller combustion charge taking place inside



as for water cooled engines i've been around.. i grew up racing 80cc 2 smokes, then off to 125 and 250 classes and those buggers got hot fast when you beat on them... i'm not argueing with you by any means, jsut trying to state that different masses of different metals will heat and cool at different rates...and aluminum heats up FAST..wich is the metal used in the 88 kit jug and head...it could be too lean, and it could be starving for oil.. only inspection adn time will tell///my suggestion is to go to harbor freight and get a infrared heat gun adn measure temps on the motor after running it and compare to other bikes of the same build... my 88 can barely be touched after the first 10 minutes of riding unless you want to loose skin, and it's been perfectly tuned ona a 5 gas wide band exhaust analizer... no oil cooler by the way either
 
#23 ·
I have an overheating problem as well, except my bike starts bogging and backfiring and then will quit. I was running on the blacktop heading to the next trail head. I was basically all out for about 15 minutes. It then lost power and started running really rough. If it sits and cools down it will idle fine, but as soon as you try to accelerate it is back to the same problem. After sitting for about 30 minutes it will run for about 5 minutes like normal and then back to the same problem. Should I be running a cooler plug? I am still running a "6." Maybe drop to a 5? Could I have burned out my CDI box? I have been searching around but have not found much help. TB 88 w/ RH. Help.