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stock 110 Fork how to fill oil help

25K views 66 replies 15 participants last post by  JohnnyB  
#1 ·
i toook apart my 110 forks and drained the oil and so now im going to fill it back up and the hold that connects the lower legs to the uppper legs...so how do i fill it up if there is a hole
 
#2 ·
carmstrong137 said:
i toook apart my 110 forks and drained the oil and so now im going to fill it back up and the hold that connects the lower legs to the uppper legs...so how do i fill it up if there is a hole


I left my top caps on and turned the forks upside down and filled them from those bottom holes with thick motor oil.
 
#4 ·
carmstrong137 said:
how did it feel cause i just put in 15wt oil and its not goood!


i run 5 wt in my sp-5's. they feel great but i am sure 110 forks are different. cole, i have some extra 5 wt oil i think if you want to try that out in one of your forks. and i got my forks and bearings off my old frame and on the new one. just have to change my tire, zip tie some stuff, true up my rim, and a couple of other things and i am ready for lake havasu. and i guess andrew isn't going and my dad doesn't really want to go but i am like begging. hope i can make it out
 
#5 ·
Im to PRO said:
i run 5 wt in my sp-5's. they feel great but i am sure 110 forks are different. cole, i have some extra 5 wt oil i think if you want to try that out in one of your forks. and i got my forks and bearings off my old frame and on the new one. just have to change my tire, zip tie some stuff, true up my rim, and a couple of other things and i am ready for lake havasu. and i guess andrew isn't going and my dad doesn't really want to go but i am like begging. hope i can make it out


i put 15 in and its still sofft!





and yeah you need to come out
 
#6 ·
carmstrong137 said:
i put 15 in and its still sofft!





and yeah you need to come out


High performance full size bikes have fancy cartridges that do the damping and require just very light weight 5wt oil.



KLX110 forks are super simple on the inside and come damped for 50lb kids. I just used 40wt motor oil and kept the stock springs in there. I was 180lbs and jumping everything the bike had enough or almost enough speed to hit on an arenacross track. They seemed to work fine till I upgraded. Play with the oil volume / height to help control bottoming. Too much and you won't get full travel.
 
#9 ·
TWISTED said:
Those things are the biggest waste of money ever. I borrowed my buddy's 110 forks with $300 worth of dampers, emulators, and heavy springs and they didn't feel any better than my stock forks with $3 of super thick oil. Yes, I ride HARD.


what weight oil, and how much in each leg?



i was interested in doing dampers until i heard this!
 
#10 ·
Z50King said:
what weight oil, and how much in each leg?



i was interested in doing dampers until i heard this!


I just used some regular motor oil. I had the forks off just played with the volume with too much, then dumped it out till I could get full travel.



Some techno wiz BS guys might get on here and say, "No that won't work, don't do..blah blah blah" Whatever. I was a test rider, tech guy, and pro downhill mountain bike racer working for a big company. I have been switching, customizing, and tuning forks for years. I started riding MX in 1978 and racing in '81. Take the $300 you wanted to put into these and just buy one of those SGR front ends.
 
#14 ·
Z50King said:
i have 80wt tranny oil i use in my 250... maybe that will... jk



thanks man. what is the stock oil amount, do you know?



and how do i get the oil out without taking the forks apart?


I just took the bottom bolt off and pumped it out. Don't use your $8 good stuff. Just get some cheap stuff and also a bag of kitty litter and experiment. Shouldn't take more than hour.
 
#17 ·
Z50King said:
i assume you take the legs off to fill them back up from the bottom?


Yeah, with those bolts off, they come apart. Just fill them up and then put the lowers back on and bolt them back together and moto! You can't really screw anything up, other than getting oil all over the place.:(



I never did figure out how to take off those weird cheap top caps. I know they have a clip, and you have to push down, but...
 
#19 ·
Z50King said:
wait, so i have to disassemble the forks? top from bottom? i was talking about taking the entire fork let out of the triple clamps


just take the top lil c clip out from the top than the thing that pushes against the c clip and drain all the old oil... push down so the spring is sticking out compressed... fil up til about 2 1/2 from the top. put all back together and throw a towel on the end and push them against the ground and see if you lik em... if to stiff take apart and pour alittle out at a time til they fill nice. this is how i did it...
 
#20 ·
take the spring out, compress the forks completely, and 9 centimeteres from the top.



i marked it on a long flathead. picking up a plastic syringe will help you out as well to add/subtract in very small amounts. don't get a needle on it, just need the ones like they give you when you get your wisdom teeth removed.



i have damping rods and 2 mild springs with 10 wt bel ray oil.
 
#21 ·
Wow .. this is gonna be a good thread .. I THINK ??? ..



TWISTED .., so you really can use motor oil in forks ??

Doesn't it foam up ?

Does the internal wear of the forks suffer from use'n motor oil ?
 
#22 ·
I'm by no means a suspension technician, but when I look at the OEM configuration, I can see that it's really easy build.

It should be unimportant what wt the oil has, as it's only function is to lubricate the internals and offer a second progressive spring - the air chamber on top.

I like TWISTED's procedure, as it is very simple. Take the bottom bolt out, drain the fork by pumping it, refill oil with syringe, find the washer you lost at the beginning and screw everything back together. If only somebody could tell the amount of oil. Doesn't anybody now?



Image
 
#23 ·
If you do it the TWISTED way ???:lol:



You need to just put in what ever you drain out , right ??



But if you do it the conventional way ? Pull'n the cap , etc ... You need to measure . This method is much more accurate . ;)



I believe it is 90 mm from the top , spring out and fork compressed .
 
#24 ·
His procedure is easier, because you dont have to take so many parts apart and can make fine adjustments in a hurry.

I just want to know if somebody else measured the amount, so I don't have to do it on my own.

There is no big difference in accuracy, as long as you get all of the old oil out and know how much to put back in. The little bit that remains shouldn't make a noticable difference.
 
#25 ·
Idk if it is more easy ??



Ok so let me get this straight .. This is all done while on the bike ???



If it is ? To do this you need to turn the bike up side down , no ??



Won't the oil drain out of the rear engine vent tube ?? Not to mention the fuel spillage ?