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Wow .. this is gonna be a good thread .. I THINK ??? ..



TWISTED .., so you really can use motor oil in forks ??

Doesn't it foam up ?

Does the internal wear of the forks suffer from use'n motor oil ?
 
I'm by no means a suspension technician, but when I look at the OEM configuration, I can see that it's really easy build.

It should be unimportant what wt the oil has, as it's only function is to lubricate the internals and offer a second progressive spring - the air chamber on top.

I like TWISTED's procedure, as it is very simple. Take the bottom bolt out, drain the fork by pumping it, refill oil with syringe, find the washer you lost at the beginning and screw everything back together. If only somebody could tell the amount of oil. Doesn't anybody now?



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If you do it the TWISTED way ???:lol:



You need to just put in what ever you drain out , right ??



But if you do it the conventional way ? Pull'n the cap , etc ... You need to measure . This method is much more accurate . ;)



I believe it is 90 mm from the top , spring out and fork compressed .
 
His procedure is easier, because you dont have to take so many parts apart and can make fine adjustments in a hurry.

I just want to know if somebody else measured the amount, so I don't have to do it on my own.

There is no big difference in accuracy, as long as you get all of the old oil out and know how much to put back in. The little bit that remains shouldn't make a noticable difference.
 
Idk if it is more easy ??



Ok so let me get this straight .. This is all done while on the bike ???



If it is ? To do this you need to turn the bike up side down , no ??



Won't the oil drain out of the rear engine vent tube ?? Not to mention the fuel spillage ?
 
Ok .., so your do'n with the forks out ..



I don't get it ... what is so hard about remove'n the top clip and cap then , if the forks are already out ??
 
JohnnyB said:
This is INCORRECT . ;)
What's your input on this? It makes sense that it would act as thick fork oil. All it is doing is going through the valving holes slower. I am about to go do this. Does anyone have a ballpark estimate on how much oil they hold or what amount would work well with 40wt
 
brtsuzuki480 said:
What's your input on this? It makes sense that it would act as thick fork oil. All it is doing is going through the valving holes slower. I am about to go do this. Does anyone have a ballpark estimate on how much oil they hold or what amount would work well with 40wt


Well ..., If I'm read'n that post correctly ? He states that fork oil visocity has no effect .

It does ..



I have never used anything but suspension type fluids . I would use motor oil if the manufacturers would say it is ok , but they don't and it's not . ;)



One way I look at it is why did they invent brake fluid ? Because motor oil can't handle that job either .. :)
 
The viscosity of the oil(weight) would change how fast the oil is going through the holes in the valving. The motor oil is much thicker and it would make it stiffer. My only concern would be how fast it would break down and how much damage it would do to seals because of the pressure of trying to push that thick of oil through 1/8 inch size hole.
 
under the black caps on the fork leg near the clamp theres a little C clip inside the fork.. push down on the cap, and youll be able to see it.. i used a screw driver to get the clup out.. than the cap should come right out.. easy as 1. 2. 3.
 
brtsuzuki480 said:
The viscosity of the oil(weight) would change how fast the oil is going through the holes in the valving. The motor oil is much thicker and it would make it stiffer. My only concern would be how fast it would break down and how much damage it would do to seals because of the pressure of trying to push that thick of oil through 1/8 inch size hole.


The oil made for a motor or tranny should be good stuff. I suppose if you felt obligated to use "suspension fluid" you could remove the stock damper rod and weld up the hole in the bottom and then drill a tiny little one that slow down the damping. What else is there to damage? I know there would be far more damage caused from severe bottoming if someone tried to ride hard with the forks left stock with light oil and low volume.



Pressure on fork seals would be related only to the volume of oil, not relevant to size of damper hole.



There is nothing inside a 110 fork except a spring and that damper rod with a hole in it. I just took them off, removed the bottom bolt, pulled the lowers off. dumped out the oil. filled them to the top. put the lower back on, then pushed down on them, trying to bottom them, which made the extra oil drail out onto the floor. Once the oil is at the volume that gives full travel, but stiffens up at the end of the stroke, put the bolt back on and tighten it. Takes like 5 minutes. Make sure you have kitty litter on the floor.



Here's what '09 CRF450R forks look like inside. Notice the cartridge and plunger rod with sophisticated damping. These are what expensive suspension fluid is designed for. compare this pic to the klx110 pic above.

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Busser90 said:
under the black caps on the fork leg near the clamp theres a little C clip inside the fork.. push down on the cap, and youll be able to see it.. i used a screw driver to get the clup out.. than the cap should come right out.. easy as 1. 2. 3.


i agree this is easier unless you plan on removing your forks to service the triple clamp bearings,then bottom bolt may be easier,but on bike just push down cap and use small pic/screwdriver to remove circlip,then you can adjust oil height with a syring/fork tool
 
i had an extra set of forks laying around so i took them apart. it is very easy to take the top cap out



i unscrewed the bottom allen screw, now how do i get it to screw back in? it just turns and wont catch anything. and it also wont come out either
 
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