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SSR 125 Carb

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39K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  Ty1  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

I know this has been covered many of times but I just cannot seem to get the carb adjusted correctly. I have read a bunch on here and I hate to make my first post about me LOL.
The bike is an SSR 125. I bought it second hand. The carb is stock (it's a Jing Ke). I took the carb apart to make sure it was all clean and good. I have messed with every needle and still can't get it to run. I have moved the air needle all the way rich to all the way lean. I have backed the fuel screw all the way in and tried it at 1 turn out, 1 1/2 out, 1 3/4 out, 2 out and 2 1/2 out. It runs good from idle to about 1/4-1/2 throttle. After that, it just boggs. I can move the choke to half and it runs like a champ. I started with a brand new plug and it didn't matter where the needles where, it was rich. It's like I couldn't get it leaned out enough. When I could go around the block in 3rd, it would take it a minute to idle back down or until i gave it WOT and bogged it. It ran its best (still fat though) when the air needle was all the way to the top (lean) and the fuel needle at about 1 turn out. Can someone shed some light please? :confused: Below is the carb and bike.

I really appreciate any help!! (I have no idea why the pictures are sideways)

 
#2 ·
Rich all the time is usually a sign of float level to high or float needle valve not sealing. An over oiled air filter can have similar effect.

On Chinese bikes the valves are always tight because the valve seats are soft. It doesn't sound like the problem that you're having, but check valve lash anyway if you haven't already.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hello all,

I know this has been covered many of times but I just cannot seem to get the carb adjusted correctly. I have read a bunch on here and I hate to make my first post about me LOL.
The bike is an SSR 125. I bought it second hand. The carb is stock (it's a Jing Ke). I took the carb apart to make sure it was all clean and good. I have messed with every needle and still can't get it to run. I have moved the air needle all the way rich to all the way lean. I have backed the fuel screw all the way in and tried it at 1 turn out, 1 1/2 out, 1 3/4 out, 2 out and 2 1/2 out. It runs good from idle to about 1/4-1/2 throttle. After that, it just boggs. I can move the choke to half and it runs like a champ. I started with a brand new plug and it didn't matter where the needles where, it was rich. It's like I couldn't get it leaned out enough. When I could go around the block in 3rd, it would take it a minute to idle back down or until i gave it WOT and bogged it. It ran its best (still fat though) when the air needle was all the way to the top (lean) and the fuel needle at about 1 turn out. Can someone shed some light please? :confused: Below is the carb and bike.

I really appreciate any help!! (I have no idea why the pictures are sideways)

View attachment 191041 View attachment 191049 View attachment 191057


Chances are you have a bad gasket or o-ring between carb and intake manifold, or intake and head. Spray something more flammable than gas (gumout or other carb cleaner, starting fluid....) between the carb and intake, and between intake and head.... If you hear it idle up, it's sucking air. More than likely you have this problem, and if so, this has to be fixed to get your jetting right, and idle to drop back down. Then I'd put it back to stock and see what it's doing.

Sounds like you're running lean not rich. If you use choke and it runs "like a champ", you're not getting enough fuel, or too much air..... Start there and report back, good luck!

FYI, if your screw is a fuel screw, not air (if it's on inlet half of carb, it's air, on outlet half, it's fuel) turning it out richens (opposite if air screw). This works with pilot jet for first 1/4 throttle or so. (If 1 turn out is best setting, your pilot should be ok. If you have to turn it in further than 3/4 to get better, and it is a fuel screw not air, your pilot will have to go down one size and then reset fuel screw from scratch) THIS AFFECTS THE FIRST 1/4 THROTTLE

Your needle affects about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Raising clip, same as lowering needle, leans it out, as it blocks fuel from passing through main.

Main jet affects 3/4 to full.

Remember, do one thing at a time, and make educated adjustments. I see a lot of people (I am honestly not implying you here) want to change something just to change something, not knowing what they are affecting..... You will accidentally get close this way, but not likely correct.

After all, even a broken clock is right twice a day.
 
#5 ·
I went and tried a few things but no luck. I measured the carb and its 26mm (I thought it was smaller). There are no air leaks. It's still fat from about 1/4ish throttle to WOT but fine from idle to 1/4 throttle. I also rode it around a little more and got it hot and it wouldn't idle down until i adjusted the idle screw. Do thing I should try a different size main jet? Again, it runs good with the choke half on. Do think I should try rejetting my carb or but a Mikuni VM22?
 
#6 ·
26 sounds a little big for a 125 IMO (I'm assuming it's stock, and I know many people's consensus is the bigger the better). Yeah, as far as not idling down on it's own, that's my bad too, as I figured you adjusted the idle and were looking for the next step to try. Putting the choke on either adds fuel (pull style), or blocks some air, allowing more suction for fuel (butterfly).... either way, you end up richening the mixture. If it's running better this way, you are running too lean. What size main and what model carb?
 
#8 ·
I run a vm26 mikuni on my 125cc ssr , if you have that carb you may have gotten lucky and have a cheater 125. A 125cc with a mid block head, or 23mm and 27mm valves. Thats why that 26mm is on there ! I couldn't get mine to run right either with the stock carb . I rebuilt it with a high compression 54mm lightweight piston ,16t front sprocket ,with bigger exhaust and the vm26 mikuni . I can tell you with this combo i pulled away from a blaster by 2 lengths.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
#10 · (Edited)
Hi all, I just wanted to update on my situation. I went ahead and bought the Mikuni 22mm carb along with a jet kit from TBolt. All I can say is, WOW. Completely different bike. It runs 110% better and all I have done is adjust the idle down a hair. I'm going to play with the jets a little and see what happens. If anyone else is in the situation I was in, just buy the Mikuni carb. It will save you a lot of headaches.
 
#13 ·
Hey Guys I've been making videos for a while and may have a solution for this Carb problem i made a whole helpful video on this mikuni carb and how to remove and clean. Check it out on youtube!

I can't post links yet so go to youtube and search:
MarkPowersports
Or search the video name:
[h=1]SSR 125 Mikuni Carb Clean â—Š Pit Bike[/h]
Thats the video title also check out my channel for other cool videos like how to install LED light strips or Racing CDI. Please subscribe!