I run a 66mm stroke in my Honda Nice...no reason to believe you couldn't do the same in one of these. Also, Nice transmissions all have to be imported. The TRX90 gears and shafts are pretty much interchangable with the Nice stuff. The Nice clutch is better, but again, you could swap out to the TRX clutch back. I don't know compatibility wise on any of these, but do know there are honda products that interchange with Nice that many don't know of.

 

The clutch side of the crank is different. No idea if the TRP NICE crank for Takie clutch could be used.

I'm going to have to read through the Poor Mans NICE thread again. Its been a few years.
What it really coming down to is buying a TRX90 engine, NICE engine, and an ANIMA. Tearing everything down at once and seeing what can be created.

 

I would stick with more common stuff. I dont know of any other internals that fit the Anima other than the MBF stuff. If I were to build mine more than it is, I'd go MBF crank and trans, MBF valves, off the shelf 66mm bore kit, and have someone who really knows porting to work the head. Since no one offers larger valves, the MBF valves would be a good durability upgrade, and keeping the stock valve size works well with the 62mm stroke/66mm bore setup. Also, not many cams available, so if you go shorter stroke like Stormin Normin did and run the rpm range higher, you would be best to have a custom cam made. All in all, the 212cc setup is ideal for the port size, valve size, cam, and other common parts available. My 212 kit with no other mods did over 22hp at the rear wheel with a PE28 carb.

I just installed the 66mm bore/212 kit this winter. I'll be running it in a few 6-hour endurance races this year to see how it holds up. Everything internally is stock Anima stuff, but I have welded the guide pins in my shift forks and shimmed the trans shafts for zero play to reduce transmission slop/enhance gear dog mesh.

 

I would stick with more common stuff. I dont know of any other internals that fit the Anima other than the MBF stuff. If I were to build mine more than it is, I'd go MBF crank and trans, MBF valves, off the shelf 66mm bore kit, and have someone who really knows porting to work the head. Since no one offers larger valves, the MBF valves would be a good durability upgrade, and keeping the stock valve size works well with the 62mm stroke/66mm bore setup. Also, not many cams available, so if you go shorter stroke like Stormin Normin did and run the rpm range higher, you would be best to have a custom cam made. All in all, the 212cc setup is ideal for the port size, valve size, cam, and other common parts available. My 212 kit with no other mods did over 22hp at the rear wheel with a PE28 carb.

I just installed the 66mm bore/212 kit this winter. I'll be running it in a few 6-hour endurance races this year to see how it holds up. Everything internally is stock Anima stuff, but I have welded the guide pins in my shift forks and shimmed the trans shafts for zero play to reduce transmission slop/enhance gear dog mesh.

Wrench I do agree that is the should do thing. Its just not what I am into. I for the most part go bone stock or like trying mods the road less traveled. Right now MBF is the only player in the market and have a hold price wise. If good, nearly off the the shelf honda trx90/NICE parts can help the Anima engine I am looking to find out.

 

For the uninitiated, what is MBF? I have only ridden the daytona engines owned by others...i have not owned or been inside one.

 

MBF website
MB Factory Pitbike - Pit Bike Parts - Pitbike Shop

Not sure of all the US importers but I know that https://www.detwincam.com/ carries MBF products

 

Just finished reading the Poor Mans NICE build thread again. And the Philippines XRM110 possibly being an electric start/semi auto version of a NICE is interesting. I go to PHL once or twice a year recently.

The bad is the kickstarter info about using a start in neutral engine. The ANIMA does not tick that checkbox. So will have to see if a NICE/TRX90/XRM110 clutch can be used.

 

Daytona Anima Parts from Daytona

Item #87583: SOLID ROCKER ARM KIT The performance of High-rpm
Item #86878: Special hig rev
Item #87163: Special low and mid : genuine camshaft of 2014 engines
Item #87347: Special low rpm : genuine of 2015 2016 2017 engines.
Item #87343 New Valve Spring for our ANIMA 150 and 190 engine. It can be reached 500 rpm more.
Item #87577: D.I.D UPGRADE CAMCHAIN, 94-Link

Item #87760: CRANKSHAFT ASSY, 52.9MM
Item #86381: CRANKSHAFT ASSY, 49.5MM

Item #88011: BORE-UP KIT 212CC, FOR ANIMA190 Bore x Stroke : 66mm x 62mm, will work in 150 anima but will have lower compression ratio
Item #88599: FORGED RACING Piston KIT ANIMA 190
Item #87173: FORGED PISTON, ANIMA150F


Item #87421: MACHINED RIGHT CRANKCASE FOR 5-SPEED
Item #87422: MACHINED LEFT CRANKCASE FOR 5-SPEED
Item #87424: GEARSHIFT DRUM, 1N2345
Item #87423: 5 SPEED GEAR SET, for ANIMA150F, Need to machine or buy the machined crankcase.
Gear Ratio
1st: 2.43
2nd: 1.73
3rd: 1.33
4th: 1.09
5th: 0.92

Item #88824 CARBURETOR KIT, MV33-1F for ANIMA190
Item #88253: INTAKE MANIFOLD SETfor PE28/ANIMA F15-degree Pitch
Item #86588 pwk33 carb
Item #86619 adapter for pwk33
Item #86085 bolts for adapter pwk33
Item #86405 gasket for pwk33 adapter

 

Added 41.4mm and 66mm stroke

Bores	41.4	42	49.5	53	57	62	66	Strokes
62	125.0	126.8	149.4	160.0	172.1	187.2	199.3
66	141.6	143.7	169.3	181.3	195.0	212.1	225.8
68	150.4	152.5	179.8	192.5	207.0	225.2	239.7
69	154.8	157.0	185.1	198.2	213.1	231.8	246.8
70	159.3	161.6	190.5	204.0	219.4	238.6	254.0
72	168.6	171.0	201.5	215.8	232.1	252.4	268.7
74	178.1	180.6	212.9	227.9	245.1	266.7	283.9
75	182.9	185.6	218.7	234.1	251.8	273.9	291.6
	15,930	15,700	13,300	12,400	11,600	10,600	10,000	22m/s piston speed RPM

 

Your chart and comments impress me, well done!
If you want any sort of RPM out of the thing, it needs proper valves, valve guides and valve springs. The stuff it comes with are junk. Plus the cam profile in the same in/ex so there is work to be done there. You have the idea to make it pump, now make it breathe.

 

post pictures and dimensions of the transmission parts and we can see if the Nice or TRX stuff will drop in. Same with the clutch basket and crank.

 

I have an eye out for another anima. I'm not too eager at the moment because I'm trying to buy the last of the Takegawa DOHC heads for gb4 small case, Takegawa has discontinued their DOHC kits.

 

MBF parts for Daytona Anima http://www.mbfactory.it/shop/
Some parts are starting to be discontinued

Item #MBF0734 Lightweight slotted C45 steel cam gear 8.6deg adjustment
Item #MBF0709 7075 hard anodized valve retainer orig 5gr mbf 2gr
Item #MBF0587 MBF intake valve 21mm
Item #MBF0586 MBF exhaust valve 24.5mm
Item #MBF0636 MBF Forged 62mm piston for 190
Item #MBF0637 MBF Forged 62mm piston for 150
Item #MBF0584 MBF rod kit 3pc for 150 crank. rod length 103.5mm
Item #MBF0555 MBF rod kit 3pc for 160 crank. rod length 101.8mm
Item #MBF0585 MBF rod kit 3pc for 190 crank. rod length 96.7mm
Item #MBF0564 MBF rod 1pc for 150 crank. rod length 103.5mm
Item #MBF0592 MBF rod 1pc for 160 crank. rod length 101.8mm
Item #MBF0548 MBF rod 1pc for 190 crank. rod length 96.7mm
Item #MBF0561 MBF Crankshaft 62mm stroke. Use with anima190 piston. Rod length 96.7mm. 190cc
Item #MBF0620 MBF Crankshaft 57mm stroke. Use with anima150 piston. Rod length 99.8mm. 170cc
Item #MBF0562 MBF Crankshaft 53mm stroke. Use with anima150 piston. Rod length 101.8mm. 160cc
Item #MBF0563 MBF Crankshaft 49.5mm stroke. Use with anima150 piston. Rod length 103.5mm. 150cc
Item #MBF0634 MBF koyo crank bearing c4 sh 22x56x16
Item #MBF0566 MBF koyo crank bearing c4 22x56x16
Item #MBF0588 MBF crank pin and bearing 26x31x14
Item #MBF0627 MBF clutch outer basket 7075
Item #MBF0607 MBF clutch inner basket 7075
Item #MBF0605 MBF clutch rubber coupling
Item #MBF0572 MBF Primary gear for clutch basket 67d
Item #MBF0573 MBF Starter gear for clutch basket
Item #MBF0714 MBF 6 disc fiber plate pack with steels 6-3mm fiber, 5-1.5mm steel
Item #MBF0571 MBF Motard transmission gears 1-2.357-14/33, 2-1.563-16/25, 3-1.278-18/23, 4-1.091-22/24
Item #MBF0652 MBF Motard transmission 3rd gear replacement set 3-1.278-18/23
Item #MBF0571 MBF Cross transmission gears 1-2.357-14/33, 2-1.733-15/26, 3-1.368-19/26, 4-1.136-22/25

 

MBF no longer makes the 62mm crank. I was looking at building a 66x57 with the 212 kit/170 crank but once you start down this path it gets very expensive if you are looking for bulletproof, which might be an impossible task. The best value of the 190-4v is a new engine is only $1300, that makes them essentially disposable. My last 190 sheared the crank on the alternator side which took out the head, just the cost of parts to rebuild it is almost as much as a new motor! That was likely due to over rev. 62 mm is a LONG stroke.

 

Was your Anima 190 a V2.0?
What was the rev limiter set to? You say over rev and I believe I have seen you do motard, was it over rev from a downshift on pavement?
Which ignition were you running?

 

TJR Parts https://www.trp-productions.de/en/DAYTONA-ANIMA/Daytona-Anima-Engine-Parts/

Item #: 014-TRP-0007 3pc rod kit for 42mm stroke crank
Item #: 014-TRP-0008 42mm stroke crank complete use with TJR piston kit
Item #: 014-TRP-0009 TJR piston kit for 42mm stroke crank CP-Pistons
Item #: 014-TRP-0004 1pc rod kit(rod only) for stock 62mm stroke crank

 

This was a newer 190 that still had the larger flywheel and adj ignition and I ran it as a motard on pavement. I ran the stock rev limiter, I did try the +1 setting for a bit, that was a brain fart on my account as I trusted that if they had 3 higher settings it must be safe. I should have done the math as above. As it is the stock setting is too high for extended high rpms. I ran the snot out of this engine bouncing the stock rev limit all the time to avoid shifting so I don't blame the failure on the engine, but the reality is this is an inexpensive dirt bike engine in the first place. It went as I was accelerating hard in 3rd gear, when it broke the cam and the crank were no longer in sync and the piston hit the intake valves so hard it broke the rocker mount destroying the head. Building a new head from parts is too expensive but the only complete head I could find was $550 so along with needing a crank/piston/cam it's better to just buy a new engine. TB is supposed to get completed heads so I may rebuilt it depending on their price. The new engines come with the smaller flywheel which should take some stress off the crank. I'm getting a tach too

 

I don't know if it was just fermented grape juice thirty when mbf made the set a customer sent me to install in a head or not. But I strongly urge to inspect them before installing. How is everyone uploading pics on here now that photobucket is not free?

 

I am using https://postimages.org/

I can't quite translate your post back to sober language. I am guessing you are saying you got some subpar valves from MBF.

I'm not recommending any of MBFs products just making lists of off the self parts. I haven't made any selections yet.

 

Sorry lol wasnt sure if the picture would attach or not. Here is both intakes

They are a 2 piece valve. Can say with any degree of certainty if the tip side is high carbon steel or a martensitic stainless. If I were a guessing man I would say it's high carbon steel. But at any rate the very distinguishable line about half way up the valve stem is where it goes from non magnetic to magnetic. It I'd also where you have dimension discrepancies.


ledge from tulip to seating face as well as grinding is chattered

 

Great, I just bought a set of those valves...

I added images by using the upload images. I resize them down so maybe that's the issue?

EDIT - I just measured mine and while my caliper is not as accurate as yours the stems all come in a little over 0.174". Mine are also black on the retainer end. The seating faces look good too. Maybe these are a bad batch? Mine just came directly from MBF in Italy a few weeks ago.

 

I very well could of just got a bad set. As I stated earlier this is the first set I have personally had in my hands to look over and inspect.

0.174" with guess o meter or actual outside micrometer? If you're getting 0.174" with outside micrometer you are going to have grotest stem to guide clearance. I built a number of these animals when they first came out so the stuff I have record are from the 1st gen heads. I have actively avoided doing them in recent years due to as someone has already stated. Imo they are disposable engines imo a lot of the internals come pre worn out right out of the factory. Not actually worn out but over clearanced as if they were worn out. Which is sad the anima head has a TON of potential for power you just have to unfook just about everything the yellowndevils did wrong which again as someone stated you are then very deeply invested in the head. But reasoning for mentioning stem tongued clearance and when I pulled my specs. The head I'm currently doing for a guy he didnt send factory valves with so I cant double check stem size to see if it has changed. The first batch came with 0.176" stems stem to guide clearance was in the ball park of 1.8~2 thou which is really sloppy imo. Here are the guide bores of the new head I have.... lmao it's a fooking joke.

Master ring inset bore gauge too


Bote gauge zeroed for 0.17713"


Intake guide bores



Exhaust guide bore

this guide actually has more clearance than that I only preloaded gauge for about 2 thou over the 0.17713"

In case any one is confused the dial reads in 0.0001" each number line is 1 thou/0.001" each small line is 1 tenth or 0.0001". If pointer is on 1 side of dial its tighter then 0.17713" and vice versa if it's on 9 side of dial it's that many tenths larger than 0.17713".

So on this head intake guide bores are right around the ball park of 0.1776~0.1775" if your stems are 0.174 you are in the 3 thou plus range for clearance

 

That was with my cheap dial caliper so I don't trust the numbers, but they are consistent. My equally cheap micrometer is not much better

You may see these soon so you can be the judge...

 

Haha ok so you were using some guess o meters. My best guess from the mbf valves I have here I'd say they probably should spec out 0.1758"~0.176" range and from the animas I have pulled apart new included I'd say guide bores from factory are around 0.1776". But like you if you end up sending it to me for some love this is all things i check to make sure I'm not sending a guy back a time bomb lol

 

I have not stated this yet but the build of a solid Anima, which is likely pretty clear after you read Storminnorman07's posts, requires completely going through the head with new seats, guides, valves, springs, and retainers. Which will be more costly in parts alone than going through 250F head as the parts will be custom order and not off the shelf.

Possible cost saving idea is to use a ZS190 2 valve head and big valve that with all the same treatment(seats/guides/etc) but with half the parts to buy. Will lose some power potential but also save money. I have not used the ZS190 head but worked over the power would probably be more than a stock Anima 4v head...bench racing extraordinaire.

Will be adding a couple more parts lists when I get a chance
Bucci offers a few things
Aasa from Greece does a lot of head work but I don't know if they would sell head rebuild/mod kits (seats/guides/valves/etc) for user install.

The down side to researching more and more is that I am now feeling increasingly afraid of running my engines hard. I already knew of issues and poor quality in the Anima but, constantly looking at it is a mild anxiety starter.

 

Lol you are really going to hate seeing my name in this post. The 2v zs is not much better than the anima. Yes it is definitely cheaper initially as well as cheaper to rebuild due to having half the valve train. If memory serves it comes with a 30/26 valve setup which in my opinion the exhaust valve is way to big. Increasing the intake valve to 32mm would help out a bunch. But.... port wall thickness is paper thin in spots. I could not bring myself to attempt to install a larger intake valve in a customers head. If it were my personal head I would of tried it cause I dont care if I have to weld a head up and make it look Frankenstein like. But generally speaking most customers frown on that and being as such I wouldn't do it. The next big issue is spring jacket to port thickness is really thin. They have that HUGE guide bosses which is usually indicator there is not material before you blow a hole into that valve spring seat. Sure as shit one I started getting the roof raised where it was starting to look decent it perforated a hole in the valve spring jacket. Exhaust port is stupidly large as well. Especially in relation to the intake port.

Looking past those drawn backs guide to stem clearance was pretty decent. Valves themself I dont wanna say they are good but dont wanna say they are awful either lol. Surprisingly they make pretty decent power for what they are. The next bit you will have to take with a grain of salt. I have not personally dynoed one but one of the guys I did some porting for was sending me dynos of his. That being said I'm a firm believer in not posting other guys dynos unless they have gave me permission to. But for what it's worth this base lined mid to high 15s. After some porting and I think imbetter exhaust he must 17.4ish and picked up I wanna say 1400 rpms with porting as well as 6 or 8 mph. 190 anima graphs I consider legit lulls are usually in the 18hp range.

If you pull the trigger on the zs 190 and drop a larger valve in it. I know I'd be interested to hear if you were able it get at least 90% head diameter in the port without tearing through.

 

Bucci parts for Anima https://www.buccimoto.com


Item #: KIT 6 CLUTCH DISCS RACING DAYTONA ANIMA https://www.buccimoto.com/en/kit-6-dischi-frizione-racing-daytona-anima/150/d/
Item #: CRANKSHAFT BEARING DAYTONA ANIMA https://www.buccimoto.com/en/cuscinetto-albero-motore-daytona-anima/147/d/
Item #: GEAR ADVANCED DAYTONA REINFORCED WITH A VERY HIGH BREAK POINT X DO NOT DAMAGE THE CRANKCASE https://www.buccimoto.com/en/ingran...to-con-un-punto-di-rottura-molto-alto-x-non-danneggiare-il-carter-motore/139/d/
Item #: PISTON DIAM.66 HIGH COMPRESSION COMPLETE WITH PIN, SEGMENTS AND SEEGER X DAYTONA ANIMA https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Piston...-alta-compressione-completo-di-spinottosegmenti-e-seeger-x-Daytona-Anima/138/d/
Item #: HIGH COMPRESSION PISTON COMPLETE WITH PIN, SEGMENTS AND SEEGER X DAYTONA ANIMA 190CC https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Piston...compressione-completo-di-spinottosegmenti-e-seeger-x-Daytona-Anima-190cc/137/d/
Item #: HIGH COMPRESSION PISTON COMPLETE WITH PIN, SEGMENTS AND SEEGER FOR DAYTONA ANIMA 150CC https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Piston...compressione-completo-di-spinottosegmenti-e-seeger-x-Daytona-Anima-150cc/136/d/
Item #: BIELLA DERIVED FROM FULL FULL OF PLUG AND CAGE X 150CC DAYTONA SOUL https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Biella...a-ricavata-dal-pieno-completa-di-spinotto-e-gabbia-x-Daytona-Anima-150cc/146/d/
Item #: CONNECTING ROD MADE FROM SOLID MATERIAL COMPLETE WITH PIN AND CAGE X DAYTONA ANIMA 190CC https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Biella...a-ricavata-dal-pieno-completa-di-spinotto-e-gabbia-x-Daytona-Anima-190cc/145/d/
Item #: BARE ROD MADE FROM SOLID X DAYTONA ANIMA 150CC https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Biella-nuda-ricavata-dal-pieno-x-Daytona-Anima-150cc/144/d/
Item #: BARE ROD MADE FROM SOLID X DAYTONA ANIMA 190CC https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Biella-nuda-ricavata-dal-pieno-x-Daytona-Anima-190cc/135/d/
Item #: MADE IN ITALY lightened clutch bell crown https://www.buccimoto.com/en/Corona-campana-frizione-alleggerita-MADE-IN-ITALY/205/d/
Item #: NEW REINFORCED CLUTCH SPRINGS X YX-LIFAN AND DAYTONA ENGINES https://www.buccimoto.com/en/NUOVE-MOLLE-FRIZIONE-RINFORZATE-X-MOTORI-YXLIFAN-E-DAYTONA/213/d/

 

These guys have very nice looking 190-4V valves in stainless. They have to be better because they cost more!

MOTOSYKO - the mini-bike specialists. Daytona (4v) race valves - MS396/MS397

 

These guys have very nice looking 190-4V valves in stainless. They have to be better because they cost more!

MOTOSYKO - the mini-bike specialists. Daytona (4v) race valves - MS396/MS397

I saw those today. also out of stock

 

MotoSyko for Anima http://www.motosyko.com
item #: MS396 / MS397 Intake valve 24.5 x 4.5 Exhaust valve 21 x 4.5
item #: NF15003/01 RACING CLUTCH BASKET KIT inner and outer basket

CHP for TRX90 CHP Motorsports Inc. The original Classic Honda, Privateer Racing, CHP Race products, Classic Honda USA, Honda CT70, Z50, Pit Bikes, Monkey Bike, XR50, CRF50, NSR50, XR70, CRF70, Pit Bikes, Honda Minitrails, XR100 and NOS, Kitaco, Takegawa Parts and
item #: TRX4 CHP Oil passage tube For using crf50 type crank in trx90 engine with stock clutch cover.
item #: P776 CHP Primary Drive gear kit. for use on crf50 type cranks in TRX90. eliminates the centrifugal clutch.
item #: P846 Honda Kick start spindle kit

http://dratv.com for TRX90
item #: 263A/8DC TRX90 add on kisk start assy TRX90 TRICK_ADD/ON KICK_STARTER ASSY_(263A/8DC)

I have been looking more at the Philippines older Honda XRM110 and Wave110 engines. They have a TRX90 type clutch setup. Over there manual clutch conversion kits are about $40 with new clutch cover/cable/lever asm. I have seen hydraulic conversion kits but not the prices. Harder to find pre-electric start models online. I'm trying to find a contact in the motorcycle scene there for my next visit. Would be awesome if the XRM/Wave engines use the same transmissions/clutch as NICE110s

The newer bikes for sale in PHL have crf110 and Grom type engines

 

Anima OEM bare head...dang as I'm making this post the price went up... Was $179 i think last time I viewed it, now $202
https://www.motorkit.com/en/cylinder-en-cylinder-head/12359-cylinder-head-anima.html
item #: DAY86368 cylinder head

Tbolt HD clutch kit/pack
item #: W-TRC-9385 HD 6 PLATE CLUTCH & SPRINGS KIT
item #: W-15-1704 SUPER HD CLUTCH SPRINGS (same spring in kit above..I think)

Tbolt also offer a 6 disc kit for 5 disc YX engines. I an guessing this is thinner plates to squeeze 6 on a 5 disc clutch. So maybe order a couple of these and squeeze 7 on a 6 disc clutch... Making myself laugh but who knows without having parts in hand to measure and check
https://tboltusa.com/store/tbparts-yx-gpx-plate-billet-clutch-br-replacement-plate-kit-p-1243.html
"6 Plate Kit - Replacement for our Billet Clutch Assembly or an upgrade kit for your stock 5 plate clutch"

I have not confirmed but I do believe the CR85 clutch fibers fit the Daytona Anima clutch from what I have read

Also found a great summary of Fatcaaat's poor mans NICE and another of his builds on lilhonda forum

Fatcaaat's post
"Here's what I once did...of course I did this before!

I had a honda wave crankshaft, which was the same as a trx90, except it was a 68mm stroke. I wanted to build a crazy interesting motorout of it, so I got a set of midblock chinese cases and stuffed it with a trx90 transmission and clutch. I added in a kickstart that matched the transmission and modified the cases so it would work. I used a set of Daytona TREX 150 cases, so it had the non-kick in gear setup. Once that was done, I took the 1-way clutch mechanism and modified it to be non-centrifugal by turning it all the way down and fill welding it solid and then turning it nice. Looked almost like a stock piece when I was done. Then I popped a normal chinese clutchcover on it and had a full blown manual clutch. This was 178cc when done.

When I built my "poor man's nice" engine, I was non-committal to that approach but it was effectively the same thing. I used an aasa 63mm crank, daytona trex cases, and a trx90 transmission, but this time I left the centrifugal mechanism intact. This gave me 157cc engine, semi auto. If I ever wanted to convert it, all i would need to do is swap the clutchcover and repeat the turning and fill welding as I did on the other build. If ever there was a regret, is that I sold this motor on, as I it was dead nuts reliable and fast.

Honestly, if I were looking to build a semi-auto motor, I'd built it damn near the exact same way I did the Poor Man's Nice except I'd consider adding a superhead to the top for even more power.

If you want to go 124 on a trx90 base, that's actually quite easy. Just swap the crank to the takegawa 54mm crank and switch out the crank gear from 18T standard on CT's to a 17T from an xr50 to match the clutch gear. Assemble as usual.

Also, a little tidbit of information. NEVER buy one of the aftermarket oilpumps on any 12v small block engine setup. Buy the TRX90 oilpump...same size as the Takegawa pump, and you can buy them new for about $7."

 

Tbolt also offer a 6 disc kit for 5 disc YX engines. I an guessing this is thinner plates to squeeze 6 on a 5 disc clutch. So maybe order a couple of these and squeeze 7 on a 6 disc clutch... Making myself laugh but who knows without having parts in hand to measure and check
https://tboltusa.com/store/tbparts-yx-gpx-plate-billet-clutch-br-replacement-plate-kit-p-1243.html
"6 Plate Kit - Replacement for our Billet Clutch Assembly or an upgrade kit for your stock 5 plate clutch"

I had this kit in my YX160. It worked well. And yes, both the fibers and metal plates are thinner than stock.

I recently went to a 212 kit on my Anima, and the clutch started slipping (23hp range now). I have confirmed myself that the YX clutch parts will dimensionally fit the inner and outer basket, but the clutch pack thickness is different. I am currently running a 7-disk bastard clutch pack with mostly the thinner fibers and disks of the kit mentioned above, with a few of the thicker plates from the stock Anima clutch to make the total pack thickness similar. This mod completely eliminated the hurky-jerky clutch release on the Anima. I have yet to find stiffer springs that work, the Anima clutch requires much longer springs than the YX160 did.

 

I am hunting a cheap 93-05 TRX90 bottom end for dual purpose. One to tear down and measure for this project. Two, to build back up with the Takegawa DOHC kit I bought with the beefy semi auto in the TRX(with a lot of swapping so it all fits)

 

Hopefully it's OK to bump this topic. I got here from google researching Daytona Animas etc.

I have a fleet of GoKarts that I'm considering equipping with mini engines so this topic caught my interest big time. Sure appreciate the advise from folks here on parts selection.
Looking for CR80 (ish) performance, but parity and reliability is more important than getting that last HP this since they will just be racing each other. But they will be raced HARD and probably put away wet

Curious what you guys would recommend for base product\parts selection based on what's on the market now. The Daytona Anima doesn't seem worth the premium over the GPX given that I'm not sure a 4 valve head will serve our purpose well.. I think two good stainless valves might be better than four sh!tty ones. A cam for broad power vs high RPM. Maybe even a different CDI with a lower RPM limit..

Not opposed to having machining done if needed.

 

The anima block is WORLDS better than the gpx. The anima in virgin form at least on the dyno i use makes easily 6 more hp over the gpx. Not does it make a shit ton more in virgin form it has WAY more potential for furthering performance down the road. As it's been noted a number of times the valve train could definitely be better. Trail bikes now has a ev-8 equivalent Ss valve kit with c630 guides and good viton seals for the anima. The intake valves are a little larger 25mm vs the factory 24.5mm and valves a designed a little shorter than factory valves. Why?.... when you replace guides you should recut the seats not lap them to death. Not to mention if the head has had time on it the seats will need to be touched any how. Being as such the valves were made a little shorter so you have some nut room to clean up the seats and still maintain factory valve protrusions and installed heights. Plenty of cool things that can be done to make more power. Just doing a good carb/efi setup and exhaust puts the anima close to hp as a 150r. That being said it doesn't take much work/effort to make them make more hp than a virgin 150r.

What alot of kart guys, 3 wheeler, atv, and street guys are doing to keep cost down is picking up a zs block and slapping the anima top end on it. The zs is a 5 speed and e start. Daytona has a 5 speed e start anima model as well. But there are some guys selling the zs right around 6 bills. Where as the anima 5 speed if memory serves is right around 1400-1600 range. Hope this helps

 

That helps a lot. When you say the Anima (I keep thinking enema LOL) is much better than the GPX, are you talking about build quality/casing strength too?
On the ZS you mentioned, the ZS212 also caught my attention. What are your experiences with those? Retain the 2 valve setup, replace valves with higher quality ones if needed.
I like the idea of having extra displacement already to go with a two valve head.... and holding the motor back a little with the carb size if needed.

I'm still leery on these five speeds so I'd be curious to see if the weak spots can be resolved.

 

Do you guys have any idea of, where I can buy the zs212. I've been looking for a couple of days an have only found the from china and Australia, and for me living in Europe is going to get alot of problems with all the new shipping and everything to get it shipped over here, so if any of you know where to get them from Europe, please send me a link

 

Anima head for power/potential.

ZS190 top end for less expensive thrills with anima head being the logical upgrade.