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Help Solve Yx160 Mystery

7.3K views 55 replies 17 participants last post by  squirlydude1974  
#1 ·
Help Solve Yx160 Mystery





Hey guys I have a issue with my V2 headed yx160.

Ok Motor ran fine, then I changed out the head for a v2. Now it will not start...



I've got great spark, nice blue color, plug is gapped right, I moved timing around does not change a thing.



Cam timing is 100% correct. Valves are adjusted, and the cam is correct, it's not 180 deg. out.



This thing does not even try to start, no popping out the exhaust, even if i use starting fluid still nothing. :confused:

Bump starting just leaves me tired, not a pop or any sign of it trying.



I even put the stock head back on and it does not fire.

Im still using the 26mm (Fake Mikuni) carb it came with. The float is set there is no trash in there, The needle is not bent, no trash in the jets.



I don't think its the carb because this thing ran good right before I installed the V2.





Thank You,
 
#16 ·
mini_thump said:
Check your gas tank vent line. Does it fire at all when you kick it? You said you kicked it 100 times and it only popped once... That's electrical issues.


Vent line is good. Ive Pulled the new plug out and grounded it with it hooked up and it gets very good spark. By popping i mean out the exhaust. Im getting spark, good spark every time it needs to fire.
 
#17 ·
check the gaps on the inner rotor with a credit card. It may look like good spark but it might be blowing out. Also the inner rotors you can move the pick up up or down to retard or advance the timeing. First mark where you are right now and try moveing it either down ward or up ward as for some reason it could be like other people are saying off a few teeth some how.



For laughs get a new spark plug and see if that will fix it.
 
#18 ·
50rider340 said:
check the gaps on the inner rotor with a credit card. It may look like good spark but it might be blowing out. Also the inner rotors you can move the pick up up or down to retard or advance the timeing. First mark where you are right now and try moveing it either down ward or up ward as for some reason it could be like other people are saying off a few teeth some how.



For laughs get a new spark plug and see if that will fix it.


Gaps are set correctly on the rotor and plug. Its a good spark, I have played with different gaps on the plug also. I have moved the timing around. I have tryed 3 spark plugs.
 
#20 ·
I have not had a lot of success with the inner rotors, but I am thinking like Blackwoodz...it is not possible to set the timing on a motor that has an inner rotor kit, spot on, 100% of the time, without either double checking with a stock rotor OR using a TDC indicator through the spark plug hole. If you have not done either one of these things, that is where I would start. I'd also check my valve lashes.



And Kurly is right...on the yx motor you can't install it 180 out...it is 180 on or 180 on.
 
#21 ·
mattmoto441 said:
its your IRK they are 100% junk toss it and you will be running in no time, also check your flywheel key it may be sheered to where you think timing is off. also pilot jet might be plugged




Its not the IRK I have spark, how could it be inner rotor if i have great spark. Woodruff key is fine, i have checked. carb is clean.
 
#22 ·
fatcaaat said:
I have not had a lot of success with the inner rotors, but I am thinking like Blackwoodz...it is not possible to set the timing on a motor that has an inner rotor kit, spot on, 100% of the time, without either double checking with a stock rotor OR using a TDC indicator through the spark plug hole. If you have not done either one of these things, that is where I would start. I'd also check my valve lashes.



And Kurly is right...on the yx motor you can't install it 180 out...it is 180 on or 180 on.


I even put on a new outer rotor, still nothing. valve lash is correct.
 
#24 ·
It's easy to find true TDC with the head off ... With the piston at the top of the cylinder ... simply rotate the flywheel rotor clockwise until you see the piston only JUST start to move down , then put a mark on the rotor in line with the TDC index mark on the case ... then rotate the rotor counter clockwise until the piston only JUST starts to move down again and put another mark on the rotor in line with the TDC index mark on the case ... That'll give you both extremes of top dead rock over ... TRUE TDC is smack bang dead in the centre of those two marks where you should draw another line ... That centreline when aligned with the case index mark is where the crank should be held at when the cam chain is fitted with the mark on the cam sprocket pointing to the dead centre of the top of the head ... both cam lobes should be facing down at angles towards the combustion chamber ... In that position the rockers will be riding on the base circle (heel) of the cam ... and that's where the rocker clearances should be set ...



With everything set up right ... IF you have spark that is firing before or near the leading mark on the flywheel rotor , know for dead certain that there is fuel in the cylinder , and it STILL doesn't kick ... or it pops out thru the intake or exhaust ... and you know for dead certain that the flywheel key isn't sheared allowing the rotor to slip ... then you have BENT the valves ... and they're not sealing ... :D