A better solution, IMO, is to take that low-heat aluminum brazing rod and after knocking out the guides, use this to shape the port the way you want. I have been very impressed with the stuff.



as for the puddy, I can't help you there...

 

A better solution, IMO, is to take that low-heat aluminum brazing rod and after knocking out the guides, use this to shape the port the way you want. I have been very impressed with the stuff.



as for the puddy, I can't help you there...

ok thanks.

Anyone who has the knowledge of pyro-putty?



Lennart

 

first i'd learn how to use spell check! cylinder!!!!





how do you plan on testing your results after adding material?

 

first i'd learn how to use spell check! cylinder!!!!





how do you plan on testing your results after adding material?

First I need to read what the question is before I reply!!!

I am from the netherlands and I did do the spell check, but I didnt saw it was wrong.

After I have added the material I am going to do a dyno run to see if the porting had positive results.

But this adds nothing to my question!



Lennart

 

I do not have any experience with the product you are using, but this Marine Tex gray is what I use:



Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood

 

I do not have any experience with the product you are using, but this Marine Tex gray is what I use:



Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood

thanks Mark.

How does it work, does it have a good bond to the ports?

And how is the heat resistant?



Lennart

 

thanks Mark.

How does it work, does it have a good bond to the ports?

And how is the heat resistant?



Lennart

Lennart,

It works really well, bonds well, easy to grind but hard as steel. Boyesen recommended it to me, and they use it to mold their rad valves/water pumps/etc and then run on the dyno with them so heat is not an issue. I have also used it to drill and tap/heli coil, its cool stuff.

 

Lennart,

It works really well, bonds well, easy to grind but hard as steel. Boyesen recommended it to me, and they use it to mold their rad valves/water pumps/etc and then run on the dyno with them so heat is not an issue. I have also used it to drill and tap/heli coil, its cool stuff.

nice, that is the stuff I need.

Hmm discovered this:



How high of a temperature can Marine-Tex withstand?

Depends on pressure and conditions. Up to 250°F constant temperature in a dry environment, with spikes up to 300-325°F



That si not so hot, but if it works well for you I am sure it will be good.



Thanks,



Lennart

 

nice, that is the stuff I need.

Hmm discovered this:



How high of a temperature can Marine-Tex withstand?

Depends on pressure and conditions. Up to 250°F constant temperature in a dry environment, with spikes up to 300-325°F



That si not so hot, but if it works well for you I am sure it will be good.



Thanks,



Lennart

I have never really questioned what the recommended heat range is on it ever since Boyesen recommended it, and I know they use it in bikes/snowmobile/watercraft pieces that are used in running equipment. If you are worried about it I am sure you could always email them with your questions, but like I said we use the Gray and have not had any problems with it!

 

you can use marine tex,j.b. weld,quick steel,5-minute epoxy,bondo,etc. it all works well and all will eventually shrink and delaminate over time

 

We have been filling ports for years and have always used Belzona 1111 Super Metal. It was reccomended by Tony Scott, a local tuner to us who used to do the HRC stuff for Joey Dunlop et all, he is regarded as one of the best so whatever is good for him is good for us !



Products - Belzona



Its expensive I think £100 per litre (UK prices) but its good stuff and most of the top tuners (supersport and superbike etc) over here use it. The best thing is its not runny so you can work it to the rough shape you want and it stays pretty much in one place, with little sag as it hardens. It also machines and sands very well and doesnt clog up the dremmel or sandrolls.



The cheaper stuff like JB Weld or I think some Loctite product may be OK, but I would never use it. Although other people use it, so I guess JB must be OK ??