Sounds lean in the midrange. An adjustable needle would be the ticket. Pics of the carb to see what you're working with would help.

 

My pitster mini monster had that same carb on it. It also had tamper proof screws holding the floatbowl on. I replaced it with a $20 ebay carb and worked perfect right out of the box

 

Ill post a few pics when I get a little time.

 

Here are thw pics of the stock carb

 

When you open the pictures in a new link they look correct and better

 

Any help or info would be nice to get

 

Since you have a cable-operated choke setup, you might want to try a stock KLX110 carb like THIS ONE on your bike. You can probably find one cheap enough in the Classifieds.

 

Since you have a cable-operated choke setup, you might want to try a stock KLX110 carb like THIS ONE on your bike. You can probably find one cheap enough in the Classifieds.

I replaced my carb with one similar to this that I found on ebay.
22mm Cable Choke Carburetor Carb for Honda WIN100 90cc 100cc 110cc Carburettor | eBay

 

Midrange issue sounds like the right thing, but also sounds like the idle circuit isn't so good - having the idle screw fully in is raising the needle to supply more fuel tells me either a very lean mix to begin with or a very rich mix where slide has to be really high to get some air past the slide. Not that hard to get a bike to run on any mix at idle with no load, but when you enter into the midrange revs under load the wrong starting base comes home to roost.

I'm kinda not sure if you are describing a too rich scenario or a too lean situation. Its like the reason you can't tune a bike just by the twisting the throttle. Under load the scenario changes as the motor takes longer to build engine revs, clear fuel and gasses etc. Riding midrange against the wind vs with the wind is like comparing these scenarios - the motor is loaded very different, and the cam on the bike also is playing a role ... depending on where that sweet spot is in the motors rev range will dictate how efficient it is at clearing fuel/gasses at that point of engine revs.

So basically needle too low and the motor tends to get too little fuel and the bike bauks and takes time to build speed. Ride into a headwind the motor virtually hangs, can't build the speed to the sweet spot where the motors efficiency is best.
Too much fuel in the midrange with the needle too high the motor can just cope downwind with the less resistance, but against a headwind it can't build speed quick enough to burn off fuel, so motor accumulates fuel making for a rich mixture with a "splutter" type reaction.

Retrofitting an adjustable needle sounds like good advice to tune this out - alternately are you able to place a spacer/washer between the clip holding the needle and the slide to raise it a little. Running a washer will richen the mixture in midrange - if the problem gets worse you know its running too rich in the midrange.

I see possibly a tamper proof idle airscrew there also - if its running too rich I'm thinking you may need to tamper with it to get the best idle mixture that allows you to back out the idle screw a little - then from idle to about 20% throttle the mix is running lean so less chance of over richness when entering the midrange under load.

All theory, but you are sounding a bit desperate.

 

Mikuni 22mm works well on these bikes as well.

Wholesale cycle has the emissions block of plate for the cylinder head port and they have tested and tuned numerous skyteam 125cc bikes to run the 22mm with oem air filter as well as UNI pod, with only a few adjustments to the air/fuel setting

 

Darn I didn't get an email notification about you all responding....
All those carbs look cheap, kinda like what's on my bike already anything better?
I don't think it will really matter to me on running a cable operated choke.
It does make it easier to choke but I want it to run better more than anything.
I made my own emission block off plate and removed all the emissions from this bike.
I am running a mini gunz exhaust but it did the same thing with the stock exhaust also.
The idle mixture screw was tamper proof but I removed the plug covering it.
The idle air screw is adjustable and never was plugged.
Ill try to shim the needle up somehow if possible and see what it does. ill report back on my results bad or good.

 

Best move is to take that stock carb off and use it to keep cats and raccoons out of your trash cans at night!

It track down a genuine mikuni VM24 and tune that in, everything posted or suggested so far is just a different casting of what you already have.

Or you can de-tune a VM26 way down, I had a pe28mm on my skyteam ct (it was a stroked 146 though) it had a small gargle when taming off from stop lights but I'm pretty fat, but once you go up to speed the 28 would pull for a loooonnngggg way!

Good luck with your machine!

 

Buckit your right, all those carbs look like the same thing as what I have or close to it.
Maybe one or the other may be better than the one I have if its adjustable with jets or needle.
I may have another carb similar or bigger that I can maybe mess with. I need to find em in my parts bin....
But with my luck, something won't work right.
Will my cable work with most carbs or is it a pos cable only for this carb?
I may have a vm24 carb but idk if the intake, cable etc.. will work with the carb.
id buy a vm26 but almost $200 is outa my range at the moment until I sell some stuff.

 

If you do make the swap over to the VM, you will need another throttle cable, the one that comes on those bikes in stuck to the carb cap like on CRF50's

The cable you need can be found for $17 from Wholesale cycle(#1049) & other vendors as well

The stock intake will accept a rubber spigot for the VM's but I opted to go with a TB stubby intake for the wider port diameter. Better get out to the garage and get to digging in that box!

 

Well I put a spacer between the needle and the slide to pick it up as much as possible.
Maybe a notch is all it went up.
I used the copper in a wire to make it work. It took a bit but it worked.
It seemed to run a little better against the wind now but still not perfect. There was minimal breaking up, it seemed.
now initial take off in 1st gear seems to sputter slightly as it didnt do this before, so now I may need to mess with the mixture screw.
So it may have been running lean but also the bike seemed to over all have more power also.
2nd gear wheelies were easy or maybe that was me.... Haha but it did feel different.

 

Try cleaning your plug, then do a normal run for 15 minutes then do a plug inspection.
I just checked both my 50's on the weekend and both were a lovely brown - a really good indicator that these motors are not running too rich or lean. It's not foolproof as plug colour is also impacted by the overall main jet size, but if your plug is very dark and sooty or whiteish its a good indicator at basically whats going on.

 

Yeah I need to do that but I always forget to bring the wrench with me when I go riding.