Off to an awesome start!

 

You're gonna want to replace those rockers. The one MIGHT be ok for a while..? But the other has lived it's life. I'd just replace both, then you'll be glad you did once the money has been spent.
This is one of those parts that are hardened...but only skin deep. The part isn't hardened, all through. It only hardened on the outer surface. Once you wear thru the outer layer, it'll start to wear double fast.
I hate spending money on stuff like that...rocker arms...cam chains and rollers...drive chains and sprockets...They don't make you go any faster. They're easy to get to and replace at any time. But they're ALL part of a good job. Do it the best way the first time, and be done...well done.

 

Thanks Kirrby - I’ll either grab a new OEM set of rockers or I’ll try the aftermarket ones that DRATV has. I did order a new cam chain and rollers already.

 

It took the powdercoat shop about a week to get it done, turned out great and was very reasonable. Only issue I see so far is that he didn’t mask off the rear brake lever post like I asked. I do plan to chase all the threads, it looks like he plugged most of them before applying the powder.

This is about the 5th bike I’ve restored but the first time I have had anything powdercoated. I’m impressed that there is almost zero orange peel.

For ground purposes will I need to clean off powder around the area on the frame where the engine mounts?

 

Coming along nicely. Nice PC job.
tmas

 

Looks really good! You can just file out the inside of the engine mounting holes to get a good ground.

 

Thanks for the information. Is it also necessary to do the same for the holes where the ignition coil mounts?

 

I briefly worked on the bike. I was able to get the new races installed for the steering bearings. The races went in fairly smooth, the bottom race bottomed out further into the steering neck then the upper race did.

I used some fine valve lapping compound and lapped in the new valves fairly lightly. I filled the combustion area of the head with WD-40 after the valves were lapped but they didn’t have the springs installed. After half an hour they didn’t leak so I called that a success. I want to soda blaster head before I do a final assembly.

The valve seats have a few small areas that look like pitting in the photos but just are some dark discolored spots.

Does anyone know where to get replacement seat foam? I looked around quickly and there was some on eBay but with shipping it was around $60. For another $10 I can get a complete seat from CHP. I’d like to reuse my stock seat pan but if I can’t find a better price on the seat foam I may have to get the CHP one.

Also, the tag on the steering neck is in rough shape. I saw on eBay there are replacements. Anyone know any other suppliers for the tags? I want one that is aluminum like the OEM ones and not the sticker kind.

 

Last bit of progress for the week.

I got the tires separated from the rims. I use a oscillating tool to cut the tire around the rim and them cut the strip off the rim that’s left, make quick work of it.

The front rims are a little more rusty then the rears were but overall should be fine. I think I may try VHT caliper paint this time and see if it’s close to Cloud Silver. I’m also open to suggestions.

I got the stator plate off to get a peek inside. The two screws holding the plate on didn’t budge with the manual impact driver and stripped. I drilled them out and two screws in the engine case that didn’t break free. I should be able to get the cases split in the next week or two.

I did see a little surface rust/slime on a few of the timing components. It seemed to wipe off fairly well, worst case I’ll soak it in some Metal Rescue that I have on hand to clean them up.

 

I bought a new Honda stator cover from a major retailer. I was a little disappointed when I opened the packaging and took it out. Looks like it was poorly machined on the edge. It’s not the retailers fault, poor quality control on Honda’s end. I’m not sure the retailer would accept it as a return since I opened it.

 

I got a new one as well and it had small flaws as well. Build is coming along very well, powder coat looks great.

What was your technique for getting the swing arm bushings out?

 

Thanks for letting me know, it’s probably not worth the effort to get it exchanged then.

I removed the swingarm bushings using a vise and two sockets. I pushed the bushing out using a 12mm 1/2” drive socket, I had the drive side of the socket against the bushing and pushed it into the larger impact socket. It took me less then a minute per side. I need to freeze the new bushings before I attempt to press them in using the same method.

 

Thanks for sharing your technique. I have a swing arm I need to pull the bushings on and have powder coated. i got the upgraded bearing type bushings for it From All Balls.

 

I could be wrong but I think the All Balls kit maybe easier to install then the OEM style.

 

I made a soda blaster using 3/8” ID tubing, a plastic cup and lid from a convenience store, and a air blow gun. It worked pretty well and it cleaned the head in about 5 minutes using 3LB of baking soda for a total of $2.40.

I rinsed the head in hot water after, then heated it with a heat gun to dry it, and lastly put oil on the valve guides and combustion chamber. Looking back I’d skip the wheel cleaner next time and go straight to the baking soda.

 

I made a soda blaster using 3/8” ID tubing, a plastic cup and lid from a convenience store, and a air blow gun. It worked pretty well and it cleaned the head in about 5 minutes using 3LB of baking soda for a total of $2.40.

I rinsed the head in hot water after, then heated it with a heat gun to dry it, and lastly put oil on the valve guides and combustion chamber. Looking back I’d skip the wheel cleaner next time and go straight to the baking soda.
View attachment 274784

That looks great. Can you post a more detailed pic of the air gun set up? I would love to try that method!
Thanks

 

That looks great! can’t argue with the results or cost!

 

x2, and I imagine the baking soda washes away, not like blasting grit which is a pain.

 

The baking soda dissolved in the hot water rinse/soak from what I could tell. I blew it out air and I didn’t see any residue left behind.

 

You can also use one of these for soda blasting:Siphon Spray-Cleaning Blow Gun - Made For Use with Liquids - 150 PSI

 

Reminds me of Ichiban Moto on Youtube.

 

I got the cases split and for the most part everything looks ok. The screw securing the shift star was pretty loose. The crankshaft had a little bit of surface rust in spots, I’ll clean it up prior to reassembly.

The pins for the shift forks had a groove worn in each of them. I already had new ones and I swapped them out. The left shift fork had some wear but the fingers measured 4.94mm and 5.11mm. The right shift fork fingers measured 5.79mm and 5.88mm. My Clymer manual says that the wear limit is 4.6mm and does not differentiate between the right and left wear specs. I’m wondering if the wear in the center of the left shift fork is from the worn pin?

 

I had some time and rebuilt the stator. Does the seal on the stator plate go in with the spring side facing toward the inside of the engine ?

I spent what felt like forever cleaning the gasket material off the inner case mating surfaces. One of the transmission bearings was notchy, I have two on the way.

I opened up the clutch to clean it and put in new discs. I found the inner splined hub broken, Honda part number 22120-040-030. I’m glad that I opened it up and found it now. Anyone have an extra one they would like to sell?

 

I had some time and rebuilt the stator. Does the seal on the stator plate go in with the spring side facing toward the inside of the engine ?

I spent what felt like forever cleaning the gasket material off the inner case mating surfaces. One of the transmission bearings was notchy, I have two on the way.

I opened up the clutch to clean it and put in new discs. I found the inner splined hub broken, Honda part number 22120-040-030. I’m glad that I opened it up and found it now. Anyone have an extra one they would like to sell? View attachment 274818 View attachment 274819

Wow, that clutch has taken a bit of a shock somewhere along the line. I just took mine apart today. Needs new friction discs, but that's all. Did you use the Honda flywheel puller to get the other side apart? I tried with a homemade puller, but no luck. I'm going to have to find the correct one, I guess.

 

I’m debating on rims. I cleaned up and painted one rim half. It has some pitting where you can see it if you put you look hard enough.

Has anyone tried the Tbparts aftermarket rims? They have an aluminum and chrome sets. I’m tempted but wanted to hear from someone who bought them. Also, I saw NEVC has a set of aluminum ones as well. If I went with a silver version they wouldn’t match the hubs and that would bother me, stripping and painting new rims isn’t appealing. Any recommendation as which version to go with?

AFT Aluminum Rim Set - All Models (8x2.75") - TBparts.com

TB Rim Set, Chrome - Z50 K0-79 Models - TBparts.com

Wheel Rim Set Aluminum Honda Z50 Minitrail K0 K1 K2-79 - Northeast Vintage Cycle

 

Have used the aluminum and chrome versions. The quality is good, with no problems. TB parts has been out of stock on the chrome ones for a while. The ones NEVC sells are identical, and I believe they get them from TB Parts (You will notice there is some overlap of parts between a number of vendors who sell each others parts.) Buy with confidence.

 

Thanks, I’d like the chrome but the appeal of not rusting on the inside with the aluminum is nice. In reality this bike will sit around and only get ridden when I get a wild hair.

 

I got the clutch cover painted, turned out pretty good. I used VHT cast aluminum caliper paint and gloss clear. This was my first time using this paint, it has a nice spray pattern and lays nice.

I got a piece in this week to fix the clutch, it’s all ready to bolt on and go. Also got new rocker arms in the mail, the head is now ready to bolt on.

The footrest assembly is together and ready to bolt on.

I’m waiting on some parts to reassemble the engine, hopefully they come in the mail this coming week. Shipping times have been rather lengthy.

I compared the clutch cover to the new stator cover, it’s not as close of a matched as I hoped for. At some point I may paint the stator cover if it bothers me. The camera makes it look like more a color difference then there really is.

 

I got the clutch cover painted, turned out pretty good. I used VHT cast aluminum caliper paint and gloss clear. This was my first time using this paint, it has a nice spray pattern and lays nice.

I got a piece in this week to fix the clutch, it’s all ready to bolt on and go. Also got new rocker arms in the mail, the head is now ready to bolt on.

The footrest assembly is together and ready to bolt on.

I’m waiting on some parts to reassemble the engine, hopefully they come in the mail this coming week. Shipping times have been rather lengthy.

I compared the clutch cover to the new stator cover, it’s not as close of a matched as I hoped for. At some point I may paint the stator cover if it bothers me. The camera makes it look like more a color difference then there really is.

View attachment 274936 View attachment 274937 View attachment 274938

Fresh! looks great!

 

I was hoping to be able to polish and reuse my lower chrome fork legs, unfortunately there is a fair amount of rust that when cleaned doesn’t look too good. Anyone know where I can get just the lower chrome fork legs?

 

I imagine all the usual suspects have them- Here is NEVC's offering (02A/03A) Front Fork Lower Legs High Quality Honda Z50 K0-78 - Northeast Vintage Cycle

 

Anyone know where to get a chrome top plate for the forks?