Hey about to pick up a 22mm carb just making sure I'm getting the right one ... https://www.treatland.tv/mikuni-22mm-carburetor-p/mikuni-22mm-vm.htm I'll be going here cause there local to me and are the cheapest.. Also for the pilot been reading I need a 17.5 and for main anywhere from a 95 to 105 but 100 seems like it works for most people?
hockeymutt
I have a VM22 on my SSR125 and am using a 110 main and a 22.5 pilot but I am still in the process of tuning it.
The stock pilot and the stock main are both very lean. Seriously. I did a plug chop after racing at a kart track and my plug was completely white. Muy mal.
I'd suggest getting a 17.5, 20 and a 22.5 pilot and get a 100, 102.5, 105, 107.5 and a 110 main.
The fuel screw can be a pain to tune because you have to completely remove the carb too.
The stock pilot and the stock main are both very lean. Seriously. I did a plug chop after racing at a kart track and my plug was completely white. Muy mal.
I'd suggest getting a 17.5, 20 and a 22.5 pilot and get a 100, 102.5, 105, 107.5 and a 110 main.
The fuel screw can be a pain to tune because you have to completely remove the carb too.
but.... what would the ideal carb be for a lifan 125?
I didn't think the lifan was a very powerful engine.
That same carb is used on the 140 but isn't that engine a lot more powerful?
I didn't think the lifan was a very powerful engine.
That same carb is used on the 140 but isn't that engine a lot more powerful?
A Lifan 125 is pretty slack in the power dept, I would think the 22 mikuni is fine for it. It probably has low valve lift and the 26 mikuni would be a waste.
Hfm, for the cost in price of a vm26 and a decent exhaust like a mini gunz is it actually worth it though?
What exhaust were you running at that time?
Did you loose any bottom end grunt?
What gearing did you have when you had this setup?
Was the entire power band a big difference or just the top end when it was wide open?
What exhaust were you running at that time?
Did you loose any bottom end grunt?
What gearing did you have when you had this setup?
Was the entire power band a big difference or just the top end when it was wide open?
Update change my spark plug and moved my needle to the middle notch on my pz22 carb ran great for my 5 mile ride and then today had trouble getting it started then got it running decent. Drove around for about 5 miles and it died at a stop light had to adjust the idle screw on the street drove home pulled the plug and it was covered in carbon sign of running rich. So my question is will moving it up to the top notch lean me out enough? Or should I just ditch my eBay pz22 carb and get the mikuni.. From what I've read the pz22 out of the box runs lean but I'm running rich..
An engine will use the fuel it needs to make the power it can make. If your motor is running rich and has no problems, with stock jets then that motor is not making the power it's supposed to. Possible other problems and you are thinking the carb is no good. Exhaust restricted somehow or cam timing off? Does not sound like changing the carb is what you need to do quite yet, try to get it all good and then if you STILL need more power then go with a different or bigger carb.
Well the engine was never really stock with that carb it was a kit bought off eBay and from what I've been reading lots of people have issues with it.. The exhaust is for a ct70 and isn't the usual FMf style exhaust which my be my issue.. The engine is custom mounted to a cafe racer frame... The idle screw come loose on the carb as well while riding I think
Just for reference and some food foir thought, I have an SSR with a 107 hinsim engine in ut that I swapped the OEM head for a xr70 model that I ported and rebuilt (to gain compression ratio, as well as using cams I already had available at home) I put an old style TB race head cam in it, and am running an aftermarket import exhaust with a 28mm tube diameter, and race style baffle with spark arrestor.
I am runnin a VM26 carb (don't recall submodel)on a rather large intake. my jetting is 22.5 pilot, 125 main, and clip n the nd from bottom position. My air screw is all the way I due to the pilot not bening large enough. I hope to get a 25 and27.5 to play with tuning some more soon.
the point of my post being that jetting can be wildly different on the same engine due to factors like humidity, temp, altitude and the small variances in build even when using the same parts... such as my porting vs. some one elses or even a name brand head. the length and diameter of the exhaust pipe and how well it's "tuned" to the particular engine.
When i plug chop i anywhere from mid to WOT, I get a nice tan/brown color plug read in thesecolder temps (will surely need to rejet come summer) I've been tuning automobiles and motorcycles for some 16 years now, and i'm very picky about my tunes being spot on.... what a lot of people never mention is how changing the cut-away on the slide as well as the "main air jet" on mikuni's can effect things that you cannot simply tune out with just a main, pilot or clip position... if you don't want to play with all those things you accept a comprimise or deal with a flat or rich spot (which these are the things that cause certain carbs to get rumopred as "having a flat spot" like the VM26 often does, when in reality the flat spot is a lack of devotion to the tune by the owner or mass of owners that make up the general concensuss on the web forums.
But all in all a 26mm carb will work great on engines from 100cc to 200cc's and plenty more deending on desired results, the 22 you're thinking abotu will give better low end response but at the cost of top end power and overal;l peak RPM.... personally I tend to prefer to give up some top end in exchange for low end response and a great hit off a closed slide almost anywhere in the RPM range, but i'm playing with this 26 because i got it recently on a deal and have been wnting to experiment with making some of these engines really sing in the top end for motard use
I am runnin a VM26 carb (don't recall submodel)on a rather large intake. my jetting is 22.5 pilot, 125 main, and clip n the nd from bottom position. My air screw is all the way I due to the pilot not bening large enough. I hope to get a 25 and27.5 to play with tuning some more soon.
the point of my post being that jetting can be wildly different on the same engine due to factors like humidity, temp, altitude and the small variances in build even when using the same parts... such as my porting vs. some one elses or even a name brand head. the length and diameter of the exhaust pipe and how well it's "tuned" to the particular engine.
When i plug chop i anywhere from mid to WOT, I get a nice tan/brown color plug read in thesecolder temps (will surely need to rejet come summer) I've been tuning automobiles and motorcycles for some 16 years now, and i'm very picky about my tunes being spot on.... what a lot of people never mention is how changing the cut-away on the slide as well as the "main air jet" on mikuni's can effect things that you cannot simply tune out with just a main, pilot or clip position... if you don't want to play with all those things you accept a comprimise or deal with a flat or rich spot (which these are the things that cause certain carbs to get rumopred as "having a flat spot" like the VM26 often does, when in reality the flat spot is a lack of devotion to the tune by the owner or mass of owners that make up the general concensuss on the web forums.
But all in all a 26mm carb will work great on engines from 100cc to 200cc's and plenty more deending on desired results, the 22 you're thinking abotu will give better low end response but at the cost of top end power and overal;l peak RPM.... personally I tend to prefer to give up some top end in exchange for low end response and a great hit off a closed slide almost anywhere in the RPM range, but i'm playing with this 26 because i got it recently on a deal and have been wnting to experiment with making some of these engines really sing in the top end for motard use
I got the same mikuni vm22 133 for my lifan 125 also but the carb flange bolt holes dont line up right with the manifold. There the right distance apart but on the carb the centre line of the bolt holes are in centre line with the outlet hole. The bolt holes on the manifold however are above the centreline of the inlet. Did you have the same problem? Went looking for adaptors but cant find any.
He has a genuine Mikuni VM22-133, so the mounting bolt hole's are centered on the flange unlike the china copy Mikuni
I think TBolt has the manifold you're after
Carb Intakes - Pit Bike Engine Parts - TBolt USA, LLC
Genuine
![Image]()
China copy
![Image]()
I think TBolt has the manifold you're after
Carb Intakes - Pit Bike Engine Parts - TBolt USA, LLC
Genuine
China copy
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