total stock 06', Where to begin with mods first. Suspension?
This will be my first attempt so looking for some help.
This will be my first attempt so looking for some help.
Starting a KLX110 project
Xris313
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
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Get a frame cradle first thing before you rip your pegs out of the bottom of your motor:
Direct link: tboltusa.com
![Image]()
Direct link: tboltusa.com
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3,933 Posts
Research everything you are thinking about getting, double check everything before you buy to make sure it is a direct bolt on, stay away from cheap junk... if it costs half of what some of the big name stuff cost there is usually a good reason.
Buy stuff that will still be useful later down the road when its got more mods.
If you split the cases or get into the motor you should get an 2008 or newer output shaft cause the older ones are weak.
get a 4th gear shift drum cause your bike has four gears but they only come with a three gear shift drum from the factory
the cradle mount that Xlr8r linked for you is priceless and can save you big $'s in the long run and IS a direct bolt on
you can get one hd spring for the forks to stiffen them up a little or buy a stock set that has already been modded and sell yours
buy good used parts from sellers on here that have GOOD feedback
pay through paypal in case the seller sends you nothing, paypal will then refund you
be patient and look for good deals on good name brand stuff on here for sale
tall bars are a must, get a nice used set of pro taper xr50 bends or pro taper klx110 bends. they usually go for around $35 beat up to $55 mint condition shipped.
an aftermarket upper triple clamp like a two brothers is nice to have, usually around $80 in like new condition
an over the top brake pedal wont tear up as fast as the stock pedal, usually between $35 and $80 shipped depending on brand and condition
hd pegmount and good pegs should be high on the list
air box removal bracket and a pod filter is a good cheap mod that will let it breath better
all of those things ^ are relatively cheap and will work with any mod you do down the road
get luck and welcome to your new addiction/money pit haha
Buy stuff that will still be useful later down the road when its got more mods.
If you split the cases or get into the motor you should get an 2008 or newer output shaft cause the older ones are weak.
get a 4th gear shift drum cause your bike has four gears but they only come with a three gear shift drum from the factory
the cradle mount that Xlr8r linked for you is priceless and can save you big $'s in the long run and IS a direct bolt on
you can get one hd spring for the forks to stiffen them up a little or buy a stock set that has already been modded and sell yours
buy good used parts from sellers on here that have GOOD feedback
pay through paypal in case the seller sends you nothing, paypal will then refund you
be patient and look for good deals on good name brand stuff on here for sale
tall bars are a must, get a nice used set of pro taper xr50 bends or pro taper klx110 bends. they usually go for around $35 beat up to $55 mint condition shipped.
an aftermarket upper triple clamp like a two brothers is nice to have, usually around $80 in like new condition
an over the top brake pedal wont tear up as fast as the stock pedal, usually between $35 and $80 shipped depending on brand and condition
hd pegmount and good pegs should be high on the list
air box removal bracket and a pod filter is a good cheap mod that will let it breath better
all of those things ^ are relatively cheap and will work with any mod you do down the road
get luck and welcome to your new addiction/money pit haha
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3,151 Posts
The list is endless. Personally I would rebuild the entire engine.. go ahead and put a 55mm crank, 4th gear, 08 output shaft, new bearings etc.. Then decide how much you want to spend on the top end. I would definitely get a cradle mount as posted above. Find a good set of handle bars that you like. Also a fresh set of mx51 dunlops. Cheap suspension mods could be kx60 forks, shock and swingarm.. the list is really endless lol.. check out pics of bikes and see what you like and go from there ..
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3,933 Posts
Mine started as a stock 06
![Image]()
almost two years later here is where its at now...
![Image]()
![Image]()
Almost done...I HOPE haha
here is a link to the build and a list of all the parts I have collected, should help out for some of the stuff you need
http://planetminis.com/f71/dirts-neverending-build-155278.html
almost two years later here is where its at now...
Almost done...I HOPE haha
here is a link to the build and a list of all the parts I have collected, should help out for some of the stuff you need
http://planetminis.com/f71/dirts-neverending-build-155278.html
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3,900 Posts
Keep your sanity and stay with stock mod. Spend your money going to events and actually riding the bike rather than working on it. This is coming from a recovering addict. I haven't used Full Mod in about a year.... --L*64
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10 Posts
hey bud i think stock mod is the same as what we call superstock
so id stay with it its more fun in my opinion
about 3 weeks ago i done a race against 160cc motors on a tightish track
and won with my 110
reason being you have to ride twice as fast and keep it pinned where as fully modded bikes on and off the gas like crazy
hell of a buzz like a big 50
so id stay with it its more fun in my opinion
about 3 weeks ago i done a race against 160cc motors on a tightish track
and won with my 110
reason being you have to ride twice as fast and keep it pinned where as fully modded bikes on and off the gas like crazy
hell of a buzz like a big 50
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3,933 Posts
14/38 was fun when my motor and suspension were stock and I was riding the small stocker track I made in the side lot at the house.
Lots of low end and half decent top, rev'd out pretty quick though with only three gears. This was with a two bros m6 pipe and the pod filter kit. 14/37 or 14/38 or 15/38 to 15/40 should be fun
Lots of low end and half decent top, rev'd out pretty quick though with only three gears. This was with a two bros m6 pipe and the pod filter kit. 14/37 or 14/38 or 15/38 to 15/40 should be fun
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3,933 Posts
14 tooth counter sprocket is stock size, so you should already have that. I would get a 38 tooth rear and an extra 15 tooth front sprocket. That way you would have a good tight track gearing with 14/38 and by changing the front to the fifteen (which is cheap and easy) you would have something pretty good for a little more open riding
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5,648 Posts
XLr8r said:Get a frame cradle first thing before you rip your pegs out of the bottom of your motor:
Direct link: tboltusa.com
![Image]()
thats number 1 right there , most 110 people on here have broken cases till these came out.
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3,933 Posts
bigger front sprocket=more top end
smaller rear sprocket=more top end
pretty sure going UP a tooth in the front is close to going DOWN two teeth in the rear and vise versa
So changing the counter (front sprocket) is the cheap way to affect gearing, because they cost a lot less
smaller rear sprocket=more top end
pretty sure going UP a tooth in the front is close to going DOWN two teeth in the rear and vise versa
So changing the counter (front sprocket) is the cheap way to affect gearing, because they cost a lot less
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106 Posts
Luckystar64 said:
What is considered "stock mod"??
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114 Posts
Stock mods typically have stock forks (w/HD springs, emulators, and damping rods) stock swingarm, stock carb, stock head, and looks stockish.
Heres a thread full of stock/mods: http://planetminis.com/f15/post-your-pics-your-klx110-stock-112566.html
Heres a thread full of stock/mods: http://planetminis.com/f15/post-your-pics-your-klx110-stock-112566.html
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1,403 Posts
Here's a link that shows most of the KLX110 suspension options.
Just close the stoopid pop-ups, the chart is underneath.
Lots of good info.
KLX 110 Suspension Chart. Edited by John Falkenthal
Just close the stoopid pop-ups, the chart is underneath.
Lots of good info.
KLX 110 Suspension Chart. Edited by John Falkenthal
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3,933 Posts
JoshRidesBikes said:
^ All that and usually a nice, fully adjustable rear shock. Also a pod filter kit, some tall bars and a billet upper triple clamp (not allowed to change the lower clamps for some reason)
Oh and most people usually port and polish and or bore out the stock internals of the motor and other motor mods for speed
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3,933 Posts
JoshRidesBikes said:
^ All that and usually a nice, fully adjustable rear shock. Also a pod filter kit, some tall bars and a billet upper triple clamp (not allowed to change the lower clamps for some reason)
Oh and most people usually port and polish and or bore out the stock internals of the motor and other motor mods for speed
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