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Discussion Starter #1
total stock 06', Where to begin with mods first. Suspension?



This will be my first attempt so looking for some help.
 

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what type riding are you going to do? how big are you? what is the end result for the bike a stock/mod build or full out. i would start with bar kit, for me the stock bars too narrow and low.
 

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Get a frame cradle first thing before you rip your pegs out of the bottom of your motor:

Direct link: tboltusa.com

 

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Discussion Starter #4
MXR33, @5'-6" tall, 175lbs planning on doing some motox and doing mods just to have fun not really looking to go all out right now.
 

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Research everything you are thinking about getting, double check everything before you buy to make sure it is a direct bolt on, stay away from cheap junk... if it costs half of what some of the big name stuff cost there is usually a good reason.



Buy stuff that will still be useful later down the road when its got more mods.



If you split the cases or get into the motor you should get an 2008 or newer output shaft cause the older ones are weak.



get a 4th gear shift drum cause your bike has four gears but they only come with a three gear shift drum from the factory



the cradle mount that Xlr8r linked for you is priceless and can save you big $'s in the long run and IS a direct bolt on



you can get one hd spring for the forks to stiffen them up a little or buy a stock set that has already been modded and sell yours



buy good used parts from sellers on here that have GOOD feedback



pay through paypal in case the seller sends you nothing, paypal will then refund you



be patient and look for good deals on good name brand stuff on here for sale



tall bars are a must, get a nice used set of pro taper xr50 bends or pro taper klx110 bends. they usually go for around $35 beat up to $55 mint condition shipped.



an aftermarket upper triple clamp like a two brothers is nice to have, usually around $80 in like new condition



an over the top brake pedal wont tear up as fast as the stock pedal, usually between $35 and $80 shipped depending on brand and condition



hd pegmount and good pegs should be high on the list



air box removal bracket and a pod filter is a good cheap mod that will let it breath better



all of those things ^ are relatively cheap and will work with any mod you do down the road



get luck and welcome to your new addiction/money pit haha
 

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The list is endless. Personally I would rebuild the entire engine.. go ahead and put a 55mm crank, 4th gear, 08 output shaft, new bearings etc.. Then decide how much you want to spend on the top end. I would definitely get a cradle mount as posted above. Find a good set of handle bars that you like. Also a fresh set of mx51 dunlops. Cheap suspension mods could be kx60 forks, shock and swingarm.. the list is really endless lol.. check out pics of bikes and see what you like and go from there ..
 

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Keep your sanity and stay with stock mod. Spend your money going to events and actually riding the bike rather than working on it. This is coming from a recovering addict. I haven't used Full Mod in about a year.... --L*64
 

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hey bud i think stock mod is the same as what we call superstock

so id stay with it its more fun in my opinion

about 3 weeks ago i done a race against 160cc motors on a tightish track

and won with my 110;)



reason being you have to ride twice as fast and keep it pinned where as fully modded bikes on and off the gas like crazy



hell of a buzz like a big 50
 

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14/38 was fun when my motor and suspension were stock and I was riding the small stocker track I made in the side lot at the house.



Lots of low end and half decent top, rev'd out pretty quick though with only three gears. This was with a two bros m6 pipe and the pod filter kit. 14/37 or 14/38 or 15/38 to 15/40 should be fun
 

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14 tooth counter sprocket is stock size, so you should already have that. I would get a 38 tooth rear and an extra 15 tooth front sprocket. That way you would have a good tight track gearing with 14/38 and by changing the front to the fifteen (which is cheap and easy) you would have something pretty good for a little more open riding
 

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bigger front sprocket=more top end



smaller rear sprocket=more top end



pretty sure going UP a tooth in the front is close to going DOWN two teeth in the rear and vise versa



So changing the counter (front sprocket) is the cheap way to affect gearing, because they cost a lot less
 

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Luckystar64 said:
Keep your sanity and stay with stock mod. Spend your money going to events and actually riding the bike rather than working on it. This is coming from a recovering addict. I haven't used Full Mod in about a year.... --L*64


What is considered "stock mod"??
 

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JoshRidesBikes said:
Stock mods typically have stock forks (w/HD springs, emulators, and damping rods) stock swingarm, stock carb, stock head, and looks stockish.


^ All that and usually a nice, fully adjustable rear shock. Also a pod filter kit, some tall bars and a billet upper triple clamp (not allowed to change the lower clamps for some reason)



Oh and most people usually port and polish and or bore out the stock internals of the motor and other motor mods for speed
 

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JoshRidesBikes said:
Stock mods typically have stock forks (w/HD springs, emulators, and damping rods) stock swingarm, stock carb, stock head, and looks stockish.


^ All that and usually a nice, fully adjustable rear shock. Also a pod filter kit, some tall bars and a billet upper triple clamp (not allowed to change the lower clamps for some reason)



Oh and most people usually port and polish and or bore out the stock internals of the motor and other motor mods for speed
 

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Discussion Starter #20
DEMONDAVE said:
thats number 1 right there , most 110 people on here have broken cases till these came out.


sorry but can you explain how this bracket prevents damaging the casing mounting holes.



Thanks
 
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