Hotstart option? Why do you need that? Im not trying to be rude but I dont use it on my klx and I dont know if its really needed.I have a klx110L and I just use the F3 universal clutch lever and everything works just fine.

 

The bike is used by my daughters aged 8 and 9 1/2, I don't want this safety feature disabled.

 

A 110 does not have a hot start feature, better take a closer look.

 

Ok....what are the wires going to the clutch lever for then?? I guess I got the terminology mixed up....anyhow, the safety feature that prevents the starter from engaging when the bike is in gear but the clutch lever not used.

 

Honestly I dont know what brand aftermarket clutch lever uses the clutch safety switch. I always take mine off. You might want to call up ASV and ask them if they sell a lever like that or if they know a company that does.

 

It has nothing to do with the clutch lever I don't believe the bike shouldn't start in gear anyways you can put the f3 series on there that's what I got works perfect and don't start in gear

 

Ok...parts ordered...

Brake lever... CBF35 Shorty Red

Clutch lever... CMF30 Shorty Red

 

Ok...parts ordered...

Brake lever... CBF35 Shorty Red

Clutch lever... CMF30 Shorty Red

 

So Im guessing from the description online that this uses the stock brake perch and you just add the foldable lever portion? If thats the way its setup thats awesome because you can still use your safety switch.

 

They come with perches from what I see...

http://asvinventions.com/Clutch-Lever-Manual-Universal.html

http://asvinventions.com/Shorty-Manual-Clutch-or-Drum-Front-Brake-Lever.html

 

When you get them in you should post some pix from the links it seems like they are the same lever. Im interested to see what are the difference between the two and if it has the mount to run the safety switch. Lol now Im not even sure which lever I have on my 110.



Btw good luck with your build Im sure your daughters must be having alot of fun.

 

It's certainly damned confusing!!!! I'll get some pics. I guess there some subtle differences.

Here's a link to their application chart.

http://asvinventions.com/Applications/Kawasaki.pdf

 

If that list is current ???

Looking at that chart .., it sure looks like that there isn't a clutch lever only option your 110's ... The CMF30 clutch lever you list above is a complete lever and perch kit and doesn't appear to have a safety switch built in ..



The CBF35 front brake lever/perch should be ok to use ...







I would call ASV before you order anything !!! They may be able to put together something for you ....

 

i just cut the grren wires really cose to were it hooks up and my clutch works fine.

 

There is absolutely nothing different between the 2 there both the same you can put it on as a clutch lever or flip it over and use it as a front brake lever if you want a closer look give me your cell number I will send you pics I have them on my 2010 but blue but I wouldn't pay that price bc I got them off eBay for $50 the same exact thing ....it's called the clutch/front brake lever

 

Hey guys .., he wants the safety switch ..

RobDek .., there is a remote chance that the bike may start when in gear .. That's why Kawasaki put the safety switch there ..

 

Finally got the ASV levers installed. Both are CBF35. The bike starts in gear, of course, but there's not much torque so the kids will have to learn the hard way. Somehow, one dust cover was left off the order. They're shorter than expected, I would have ordered the full length if I had known.



Some pics...

 

Shit....they're on backwards!!!! Back to work....

 

very tasty

 

Yup, they're pretty and offers alot less clutch travel. All fixed up....my nuts aren't showing anymore...

 

my nuts aren't showing anymore...

Thats what she said HAHA .... Anyways if you want to get more lever over the grips try move the on/off switch to the opposite side of the lever that will let you move it closer to the grips.

 

I just might do that....didn't feel like drilling a hole in the handlebar today.

 

You don't need to drill a hole for the kill switch ..

 

You dont have to drill a hole. What I always do is shave off the tab on the on/off switch so it fits the bars. As long as you dont shave too much off it wont move.

 

Yeah you can shave the tab off a little and make a small indention in the bars instead of having to drill all the way thru but yes it need to be moved over I have the same ones with it moved over and it's perfect