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sikwitit50

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I got a billetware+1 cradle frame, billetware+4 swinger, 88RH Big bore, I want to know what the best sprocket combo for my riding style (trail riding balls to the wall, jumps, f'n around the neighborhood) and also can I use the stock chain? should I convert to a fourspeed w/clutch or a threespeed w/clutch? Sorry for the noob-ish questions, oh yeah any preferences for exhaust also, Thanks everyone
 
I have the ProCircuit SS T4 exhaust and I love it...but I've been a long time lover of PC on bikes...It sounds great with My TB 88RH kit! :) and of course looks good and def adds some grunt :)



I currently have the stock frame/swinger, and am running a 15/37, but would like to get a 35 rear to try out...



Just buy some sprockets and see what's the best for you, and let us know how everything works out!



As far as chains go, you'll need to get a HD 130link at least chain...DID, Renthal, EK, whatever your preference!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
visual419 said:
I have the ProCircuit SS T4 exhaust and I love it...but I've been a long time lover of PC on bikes...It sounds great with My TB 88RH kit! :) and of course looks good and def adds some grunt :)



I currently have the stock frame/swinger, and am running a 15/37, but would like to get a 35 rear to try out...



Just buy some sprockets and see what's the best for you, and let us know how everything works out!



As far as chains go, you'll need to get a HD 130link at least chain...DID, Renthal, EK, whatever your preference!


I put in an order for a fmf 4.1 used but still a great pipe, also have an order for a chain, still unsure of sprockets probably going to start with a 13/35. thanks for all input guys
 
sikwitit50 said:
I put in an order for a fmf 4.1 used but still a great pipe, also have an order for a chain, still unsure of sprockets probably going to start with a 13/35. thanks for all input guys


this is just my opinion, but stock gearing is 14/37. Going 13/36 would make no sense to me at all, It would be geared just a little overall than stock I think. I would think youd be just as well off using stock gearing, or getting a bigger front and staying with stock rear, and going from there.



I was using 15/35 on my track on my 88 racehead by the way, with a ProCircuit t4.
 
You'll like the 4.1 a lot, that's what I got it sounds and performs great. I'm running 15/37 gearing on my bike which I like for trail and track riding. I don't see why you'd wanna go to a shorter gearing especially when you got a big bore kit/more power.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
traut811 said:
this is just my opinion, but stock gearing is 14/37. Going 13/36 would make no sense to me at all, It would be geared just a little overall than stock I think. I would think youd be just as well off using stock gearing, or getting a bigger front and staying with stock rear, and going from there.



I was using 15/35 on my track on my 88 racehead by the way, with a ProCircuit t4.


I tend to overthink the small things, your totally right. It's just me wanting it perfect :D It took me a friggin month to decide on which exhaust I wanted. Thanks for simplifying things for my complicated thought process.
 
4.1 will not b the best all around pipe u will lose torque on the low end but u can stroke the motor later to utilize that air flow....



13/37 sounds pretty dumb to me, ur gonna chop a chain super short and lose top end.... I have an 88rh and run a 15/35 and run out of gear really quick. that 13 is gonna make first gear totally useless! 13/37 sound like stunting gears to me. If u want something with a lil extra torque go w/ a 15/39, then u can drop the rear sprocket to get more top end and just cut ur chain down... If u start w/ small gears to do any swaps u gotta geat a new chain.
 
by the wa I run an FMF powercore 4 Big bore exhaust and it rips all around.



go ahead and beef up ur exhaust mounts in the rear and get the strongest bolt u can find, those 4.1s r a bizznitch to keep mounted in the rear. Ask around its a common prob w/ those pipes.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
PitRacerVince said:
4.1 will not b the best all around pipe u will lose torque on the low end but u can stroke the motor later to utilize that air flow....



13/37 sounds pretty dumb to me, ur gonna chop a chain super short and lose top end.... I have an 88rh and run a 15/35 and run out of gear really quick. that 13 is gonna make first gear totally useless! 13/37 sound like stunting gears to me. If u want something with a lil extra torque go w/ a 15/39, then u can drop the rear sprocket to get more top end and just cut ur chain down... If u start w/ small gears to do any swaps u gotta geat a new chain.


Ah yes another fact that was overlooked by my complicated self, much appreciated. Unlike most of you guys this is my first complete build, just want what's best for my baby. Lol.
 
go big or go home. 16/30. :)

I actually am in the process of regearing myself right now, and thats what i decided on(for now). With those two sprockets and the stock two you have the options of 14%, 23%, and 41% increases in speed. 16/30(41%) for the outrageous top speed, good high first gear, and pretty steep second. 14/30(23%) for the still high top speed, more torque in first, and reasonable 2nd. and then 16/37(14%) for offroad slower riding or slower racing. And then you have the good ole stock ratio for stunting and such. And i think you would only need two chains for all 4 setups, one of each of the massively different rears. Im relatively sure you could compensate for the 14t and 16t differences by having the 16t chain be to where it is pretty tight without using the chain tension adjuster at all and then the 14t could still make it with the chain tension adjuster. Maybe I'm just dreaming....

I actually missed this post and just posted a similar issue myself as im still not concrete in my gearing decision.
 
Here is a chart I made of the gearing changes. A little confusing. Based it of estimated top speeds i hit while in the power band. Speeds are rough estimates, but the percentages should all be dead on. Hope its helpful.

Oh, and it is pretty disorganized, but the two large sections that take up the left side are speed estimates based on different stock top speed estimates(which i know are probably off). The left section is based on 35 mph( i know, pretty low), and the rest are based on the 40mph estimation.

Still though, the more important consideration is percent increase. Just consider how much more you want out of each gear.
 

Attachments

traut811 said:
this is just my opinion, but stock gearing is 14/37. Going 13/36 would make no sense to me at all, It would be geared just a little overall than stock I think.


You got the right idea, just not far enough. It actually drops gearing ratio 4.6%

Here are a few of the other suggested gearings increases as well

14/37:-%4.6

13/35:-%2

15/37:+%7

15/35:+%13

15/39: +%1.6
 
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