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mslate

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for some help with a poorly running SSR 110. Bike is brand new and starts up with one or two kicks. As soon as you put it in gear and let out the clutch it coughs and sputters until you pull on the clutch. My guess is it is running rich because the plug is black. I'm looking for some sort of spec for float height. I can't imagine it would need to be jetted, because it's fresh out of the crate. Has any one else had this experience with SSRs?
 
Just because its New in the Crate doesn't mean its perfectly jetted....Find the Air screw and turn it in and back it out half to one full turn and try again
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
OLDSCHOOL said:
Just because its New in the Crate doesn't mean its perfectly jetted....Find the Air screw and turn it in and back it out half to one full turn and try again


I did play with the air screw a bit, it didn't seem to have any affect. It just seems to be way off. Before I start messing with the needle or jets I wanted to be sure the float was correct. Is there any rule of thumb for setting it? I couldn't imagine the jetting being this far off from the factory, but this is my first Chinese bike.
 
Frist try lowering the slide needle to last notch and and all way up and play with air screw with it all way close and up usely it should be turn about 3/4 to as much as 2 3/4 turns from close it just that each carb works diff, if it make no diff then you can rule that out as jetting problem.

If you have done all the usual basics like fuel flow, spark plug, wires, check your oil level thing like that, then it's time to check for air leaks, specifically in the carb or inlet tract. Common sources of sudden air leaks are the carb is loose from manifold or the manifold head bolts and check head bolt.

However, more often than not, you will find water or debris and dry up old gas in the carb causing the problem to or could be a bad carb.
 
mslate said:
I did play with the air screw a bit, it didn't seem to have any affect. It just seems to be way off. Before I start messing with the needle or jets I wanted to be sure the float was correct. Is there any rule of thumb for setting it? I couldn't imagine the jetting being this far off from the factory, but this is my first Chinese bike.


Ive had new Mikuni and Kehlin Carbs about 10 jet sizes to big...from the factory.......



To set your Floats pull the bowel off and flip the carb upside down look at the floats you want them to be level (Horizontal) if there down or slightly up you need to carefully bend the metal tab that the float check valve sits on to make the floats sit level or Horizontal.



Also a good way to see if your carb is functioning properly is to turn your air screw all the way in (Close off) "it should quit running".... if its still running then the carb has issues. That part of the system of the carb is Feeding off another which means its blocked. Pull all the Jets and clean it with carb cleaner.



The bikes and parts are Massed produced to have the finnished product come out perfect...Your dreaming! also get me the make of the carb and the jet sizes and lets take another look plus it gets you familuar with the bike... I took mine completely apart to the bare frame and most of the motor apart...You would be surprised at what I found had no grease and parts that were loose. Thats why mine has lasted this long Mantainance



hope this helps
 
heres a Jetting 101 to help you:





1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.

Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.



2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.



3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.



4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....



5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.

Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...

When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.



Once you have your bike perfectly jetted hope the weather never changes..! Weather, Altitude, Gas quality and track conditions. will put demands on your jetting.....



Well I hope this helps good luck with your bike........OLDSCHOOL
 
OLDSCHOOL said:
heres a Jetting 101 to help you:





1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.

Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.



2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.



3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.



4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....



5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.

Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...

When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.



Once you have your bike perfectly jetted hope the weather never changes..! Weather, Altitude, Gas quality and track conditions. will put demands on your jetting.....



Well I hope this helps good luck with your bike........OLDSCHOOL
This needs to be a sticky for people that are just learning.Good explanation oldschool.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
All's good now

Well to make a long story short I raised the float a bit, the clip down one groove on the needle, and put a uni air filter on it and now it runs great. I wish it was as simple as that sounds. Took a little fooling around but that is where I ended up. Thanks for everyones input.
 
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