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Motarded P190R

7.9K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  T-Wrecks Racing  
#1 ·
Well today was our first race and a shakedown of my new to me Piranha 190 that had a short but rough life as documented in the Chinese forum. This is basically a stock bike, but I added Workz wheels and the shorter (by 15mm) shock off my SR160TX and some GSXR pegs. I also raised the forks to lower the front end. Right away the issue was ground clearance. The pegs on these bike are already lower than most other bikes so that made it all the worse. Also because the seat is tall I wasn't able to hang off as much as I could have also reducing clearance. Damn near wore thru my new boots!

The motor was strong, very strong so I had plenty of power to point and shoot it out of corners which was all I could do. What I also noticed is the increased stability, turn is a way less twitchy than my TX which was expected with a perimeter frame. I really like that trait so I'm going to see about raising the pegs and cut down the seat because this could be a bike to contend with. As I turned out I still got on the box (3rd overall) mainly because of my skillful blocking of guys I was able to out drag at the start!

Since this was a kart track I also put it on the scales. 175# with 1/2 tank of gas. About 10# more than an SSR TL frame with 190 motor, but since I'm 152# with my gear I still have a power to weight advantage over everyone else. The development continues...



 
#2 ·
Thanks for the review! Ive been eyeballing those to put into a motard setup.

Interesting on the weight. My X4 motard/yx150 engine in full street dress is 170lbs.

I weigh 200lbs and have found that a lower seat and handlebar height help dramatically in keeping the front down when powering out of corners. Mine is lowered front and rear, and I drag the pegs a lot. Regardless, I have found that sliding the rear around the corner has much more effect on making a sharper turning radius than higher pegs will.
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
I thought about those, but am more concerned with a DNF from a broken peg if I go down. My motard pegs have the sliders on them, also.
 
#5 ·
If you have the HD peg mount
The end pegs are bolted to the main bracket that bolts to the engine
its possible you can have something machined at the bracket to peg mount to raise the pegs up

I drag peg all the time as well...its part of it
 
#6 ·
On the P190R the peg mounts are welded to a plate that's welded to the frame. That sucks as the bottom motor plate bolts go thru it so it doesn't have to be. One option down the road will be to cut off the plate but for now I ordered adjustable pegs off eBay for $46 from Hong Kong. It doesn't look like they could punch a hole in a cover with oil which was a concern. I just wonder how strong they will be but that can be fixed.

 
#7 ·
Well I made a few upgrades so here is v1.2. I added adjustable foot pegs (+40mm), lower bars, cut 1" off the seat, TM28 carb, and an Elka rear shock (I now have rear suspension!). The shock is the stock 295mm length so the rear is 1.5" higher which is why I lowered the seat. Now that I have some sag it's about the same seat height as before. I also cut a bit more off the pegs as they were plenty wide.

Big difference esp with ground clearance. I cannot believe how well the Mitas tires work, better than full Michelin slicks on my old RS125. I had 2 moments where I was waiting for the sound of ground contact that never happened. I saved a huge front end slide too (actually 2x as it hooked then slid again), that doesn't happen very often! Good enough for 2-2nd place and my first win. I'll post the vid in a separate post.

Next step is the 245mm brakes. I have the bracket made but ran out of time to install and bleed the 4 pot caliper. I think I might play around with the ignition timing too but the motor ran very strong despite the 90F temps.

 
#8 ·
Here's what I did over the winter. New 2017 upgraded Daytona 190-4V with headwork by Storminnormin and a self fabricated a bracket to move the pegs even higher. The pegs are $13 (shipped!) folding aluminium deals from China. The brackets are 1"x1" steel square tubing which bolt into the footpeg brackets on the frame. New Mitas softs on new Workz wheels (old rims went on my SSR160 which was then sold). First event was last weekend and I just barely touched the pegs down once so it's about perfect. Didn't wear my boots either! I also added EBC carbon pads to tame down the aggressive front brakes but they were tamed too much. Also my rear brake is dragging, I bet I broke another $10 clip that I just put in new. I may have to get a new caliper, the stock one sucks especially having to replace those damn expensive clips every time you move the wheel.

CNC Universal Motorcycle Rearset Footrests Footpeg Foot Pegs Pedals Folding Race

 
#10 ·
The adjustable pegs worked fine they were just not high enough. They also stuck out a bit further too, even after I took a hacksaw to them.
 
#12 ·
Sort of. I need to go back to the needle it came with. The stock needle is a bit lean at roll on but I haven't tried the bottom clip yet, but I know the other needle works good so why mess with it anymore?
 
#13 ·
Over the weekend we got the itch to race so we drove down to Tulsa OK (11hrs) to race with OSB at JRP speedway. I just put on a set of super softs that seemed to work good at first, but the track was slick and cool from rain the night before so they were sliding a bit but under control. After the qualifying session they started to look rough and I was sliding the rear most every RH corner. After the first race they were shredded but still took first overall in mini. I even bumped to air to 35 psi for the last race and it was like riding on marbles. I like the SS on the front so I'll put the soft back on the rear as that should be the best combo. The bike ran great, the pegs are perfect height and my new motor is strong esp midrange. I just need more competition, groms are no match, nor was a CRF150R!


 
#18 ·
Over the weekend we got the itch to race so we drove down to Tulsa OK (11hrs) to race with OSB at JRP speedway. I just put on a set of super softs that seemed to work good at first, but the track was slick and cool from rain the night before so they were sliding a bit but under control. After the qualifying session they started to look rough and I was sliding the rear most every RH corner. After the first race they were shredded but still took first overall in mini. I even bumped to air to 35 psi for the last race and it was like riding on marbles. I like the SS on the front so I'll put the soft back on the rear as that should be the best combo. The bike ran great, the pegs are perfect height and my new motor is strong esp midrange. I just need more competition, groms are no match, nor was a CRF150R!

Saw this way late
Glad you made it down and ran OSB here
Thats a LONG trek
I were one second faster than my time back in 2014 on my Piranha 160

I will be getting back into the racing minis again this coming season
No Piranha....got a replacement for it
Currently getting built
Hope to see you again down south
 
#16 ·
Yep, that's me! I'll be back for LOTW end of June. It's funny when you look at other race organizations, they still don't know about these bikes. Guys are dumping huge $ into japanese bikes. Last year I beat a trick KX100 that had over $5k invested just in mods. I think the key for mini motard is keeping it cheap, and you can put the best chinese bike on the track for $3K, brand new, and win!
 
#19 ·
Sorry I have not been checking this site very often. Do you guys have a schedule for OSB yet? I hope to see you at Shawano.
 
#20 ·
Red is working on that now
He tries to set it up where it doesnt conflict CMRA and some other local and southern race organizations
Once he gets it lined out I will post it up