[OLDSCHOOL]

Someone on Here..? or somewhere has already launched the Lifan 150 Tranny...



so now im wondering...

 

[FalconMini875]

i lost my 2nd gear on sunday!!

gotta split the cases tonite an see wut happened

 

[FalconMini875]

i lost my 2nd gear on sunday!!

gotta split the cases tonite an see wut happened

 

[gstegman]

i lost my 2nd gear on sunday!!

gotta split the cases tonite an see wut happened

Falcon, sorry to hear that (saw your other thread). How much time did you have on it?

 

[FalconMini875]

prolly 4 rides on it i think

not enough lol thats for sure

 

[kenny]

i had probly one of the first proto types it was poping out of secong gear only at high rpm. when i back off the throttle it went back into gear, mine didnt have the new side clutch cover but it was the 56.5x59 motor with the alloy barrel and outer rotor

 

[FalconMini875]

yaah it was at a high RPM as well yet no matter what i did it wouldnt go into second gear

 

[OLDSCHOOL]

Get it apart as im qurious to see whats up...I was hammering my Lifan 150 this past weekend and it was going real good. Millbilly took it for a rip and he said it is definetly a good motor. I need to change the pilot jet to make the throttle more crisp

 

[numroe]

Put the head off my Lifan 140 onto my 150 and test rode.



Same head casting but: Better ports. Akunar A1 bottom end cam, Akunar valves and springs and honda rockers. Using a nicely setup OKO26 carb. Runs great!



I thought the stock 150 ran more than ok, but it has slightly flat bottom end (for my liking) then a mid range torque hit and healthy top end. With the horribly wide gear ratios, I wanted a wider torque spread.



Now with the A1 cam, it has a great bottom end which pulls real nice into the mid. The top end is for sure less but it's a much faster engine for most MX tracks. Torque spread is now broader for sure.



The engine would seem to have more peak torque now, since the clutch now slips. Even in 2nd. Just the head change. If I give it a small clutch fan with throttle wide open then it'll never grab. Plenty of clutch cable slack. Like I said, it rips! About 6 hrs on the engine. 1.5 hrs with the new cam.



Easier to start withOUT the Lifan anti-kick back mechanism on the cam. I mean very high compression, but 100% easy to find TDC and kick it firm. My OKO26 likes a 1/4 open throttle when starting.



Gears working ok. False neutral just a couple of times in bad accel bumps. In loam it shifts nice every time.



One issue is my magnetic drain plug and oil filter are still trapping a lot of metal "filings" out of the oil. Just did my 5th oil drain. I ran it in kind of hard when new, but nothing stupid and I always take it easy until it warms up. I think the gear parts are of dubious strength/hardness in my engine.

 

[OLDSCHOOL]

Put the head off my Lifan 140 onto my 150 and test rode.



Same head casting but: Better ports. Akunar A1 bottom end cam, Akunar valves and springs and honda rockers. Using a nicely setup OKO26 carb. Runs great!



I thought the stock 150 ran more than ok, but it has slightly flat bottom end (for my liking) then a mid range torque hit and healthy top end. With the horribly wide gear ratios, I wanted a wider torque spread.



Now with the A1 cam, it has a great bottom end which pulls real nice into the mid. The top end is for sure less but it's a much faster engine for most MX tracks. Torque spread is now broader for sure.



The engine would seem to have more peak torque now, since the clutch now slips. Even in 2nd. Just the head change. If I give it a small clutch fan with throttle wide open then it'll never grab. Plenty of clutch cable slack. Like I said, it rips! About 6 hrs on the engine. 1.5 hrs with the new cam.



Easier to start withOUT the Lifan anti-kick back mechanism on the cam. I mean very high compression, but 100% easy to find TDC and kick it firm. My OKO26 likes a 1/4 open throttle when starting.



Gears working ok. False neutral just a couple of times in bad accel bumps. In loam it shifts nice every time.



One issue is my magnetic drain plug and oil filter are still trapping a lot of metal "filings" out of the oil. Just did my 5th oil drain. I ran it in kind of hard when new, but nothing stupid and I always take it easy until it warms up. I think the gear parts are of dubious strength/hardness in my engine.

what type of oil are you using?

 

[numroe]

what type of oil are you using?

So far in this Lifan 150 I have used: 75% Shell Rotella 40w15 mineral (diesel) oil + 25% Shell VSX4 synthetic. Actually Australasian Shell product: Rimula-X oil which is very close to Shell USA Rotella in standards and the exactly same in terms of market purpose. btw: I ran in for 20 mins with 100% mineral oil, and I took it real easy on the gears at that stage.



Actually I use the same oil mix in my KX450F specifically because out of about 4 different specialist 4T bike oils (Motul 7100, Silkolene, 100% VSX4, Motorex 4T), I found this to give me the best shifting and clutch action in my 450F. Possibly less mechanical noise too. Actually Motorex was fine, but more expensive. Motul 7100 lost way too much viscosity and gave me the most radiator overflow (heat) so I will never touch it again. I trust "my" oil mix and diesel oils in general. I run a neo mag drain plug in my 450 too, plus I open up the used 450 paper oil filters, and I find the engine loses practically no metal at all, shifts great, nor do I get valve wear and it has done 70 moderately hard hours.



The 150 wear might slow down. I think this Lifan is going to wear a little fast no matter what. My Lifan 140 was exactly the same. Just no proper oil filter on the 140 so the mag plug always had a lot of metal on it. I always warm up gently, and I always full clutch in to shift up or down, but then I ride it wide open a lot.



The Lifan clutch slipping issue will be fine/solved. I have stiffer springs and tougher fiber plates ready to go in.



It's just so much fun to ride with this A1 bottom end cam in! Particularly with the bad Lifan wide ratio gear box (2nd to 4th and forgetting 1st) on wooped out and rutted MX tracks. If it blows up, I'll just by another and put the same head on the next one.



As well as doing laps, I was tearing around a large patch of damp sandy soil in constant 3rd gear, and it just rips. I have Pirelli MX Scorp extra tires front and rear. Plus a large air filter mounted up under my seat.

 

[OLDSCHOOL]

if your running Synthetic oil in that motor that is the reason your clutch is slipping!!!



China Clutches Slip with synthetic oil ive tried it recently to see if they are any better from the past and they are not and slip with Synthetic oil... I run TORCO 10w40 or 20w50 Non Synthetic oil ONLY!!!! never ever has any of my china motors clutches slipped



OR



we are using castrol straight 30wt in a MotoHP 160cc +R motor with a takegawa clutch...and its flawless and change after every ride (good cheap price)

 

[numroe]

Ok thanks. I will go back to 100% mineral oil and try that, instead of the 75% mineral and 25% synth. Actually I was going to go 100% mineral/Rotella anyway, because of the metal wear issue and so much clutch particle contamination, and I did not see the point in wasting the more expensive VSX4 synth for 2 hrs in my pit bike.



Still interesting is that with the 75/25% mineral/synth oil mix, I had no slip with the stock 150 cam, but now it slips with the A1 cam in there. Same thing happened when I put the A1 cam into my 140.





:idea: Also a random Lifan 150 ignition tip for anyone: Be sure to mount the green magneto earth wire to the frame using the same bolt/earthing as for the coil to frame mounting. And don't use loctite on that bolt either. So that the magneto wire and coil are all earthed as one. I had a weird problem on the weekend and it was because I put loctite on the coil mount bolt. Yeah stupid I know.

 

[BlackBeard]

you can run synthetic as long as it doesnt have the friction modifiers. run regular old hondaline 4stroke motorcycle oil. its a great formula and made all my slippery 100 clutches sticky. i have over 15,000 miles on an xr100 engine with this oil and only one top end job

 

[themountain]

you can run synthetic as long as it doesnt have the friction modifiers. run regular old hondaline 4stroke motorcycle oil. its a great formula and made all my slippery 100 clutches sticky. i have over 15,000 miles on an xr100 engine with this oil and only one top end job

^^^copy that..Honda GN4 rocks ! :biglaugh:

 

[Kurlon]

I run full motorcycle synth in both my Honda and Import motors, no slip issues even at 15hp on my 151... (Silkolene 20w50 and 0w10)



It's not being synthetic that causes slip, it's friction modifiers present in automotive oils that are a problem, as zbbt pointed out.

 

[numroe]

So far in this Lifan 150 I have used: 75% Shell Rotella 40w15 mineral (diesel) oil + 25% Shell VSX4 synthetic.

No friction modifiers in my oil (diesel and bike oil mix). Regarding the diesel oil, I rang Shell sales/support to confirm it. But I still get slippage after the cam change.

 

[FalconMini875]

Get it apart as im qurious to see whats up...I was hammering my Lifan 150 this past weekend and it was going real good. Millbilly took it for a rip and he said it is definetly a good motor. I need to change the pilot jet to make the throttle more crisp

got it apart finally last nite

as thought broke the dogs off second

swapped out the tranny from my 140 into my 150

they are actually a different setup

the 150 had a strange arm on it



i ran the crap out of my 140s in the past so im hopin it wont break now

 

[FalconMini875]

how about that new 530 MX oil from Maxima??

anyone runnin that, i kno its expensive as hell but not too bad when your a dist for them =]



im currently only runnin maxima 10/40 prem in it

never tried anything different.

850cc's in it correct??

 

[OLDSCHOOL]

got it apart finally last nite

as thought broke the dogs off second

swapped out the tranny from my 140 into my 150

they are actually a different setup

the 150 had a strange arm on it



i ran the crap out of my 140s in the past so im hopin it wont break now

the 140 tranny is a direct swap then and everything shifts smooth..?