35 or 38 pilot. Clip 3rd or 4th spot down from the top. 120 or 125 main.. 2 turns out on air fuel. I run a 201cc V2 head with a S35 cam..

 

It has a 125 main and a 40 pilot. The clip is in the middle. The idle screw has been moved from the stock position so I need to figure out where that should be.
As of right now the bike will not start. I think its flooded.
I don't have any jets right now but will be ordering tonight.
I will report back as to if I get it running.

 

im running the same carb settings as taz mentioned. 38-needle is the middle-125 main. i believe im at 2 1/4 turns out on the air screw. good luck

 

Took the plug out to check and see if I was getting fire. I am getting spark and fuel but the plug looks really dark. I am going to try to clean the plug up and see if it will fire but first I'm going to let the cylinder air out a bit. Also if I move the clip up on the needle that should lean it down correct?

 

I cleaned the plug and set the air fuel to 2.5 turns out and it popped but didn't start. It's getting closer but I still need to figure out how many turns out the idle screw needs to be for a base line.

 

you need to screw the idle screw in so it raises the slide. ill go check were i have mine set for you

 

Idle screw- 1 1/2 out from the base. (Mine is set for higher)
air fuel screw- 2 1/4 out from base
pilot-38
needle-middle or 2nd from top
main- 125
yx184 v2

 

On the idle is that turned all the way in to bottom out and then back out 1.5?
Air fuel screw- 2 1/4 out from base
I will have to get a 38-pilot
I am running a 125 main
Needle is in the middle. I think it's rich so I would move the clip up to drop the needle?
Z184HO V2

 

Thanks. If I don't get it running tonight I am going to take it to A and L Motorsports and have them set up the carb for me. He said he can do it in about an hour. That's checking the carb for defects as well as the set up not including jets. I may be able to trade a V1 head, 143 cylinder and piston and an TB OKO 28mm for some work. What would be a good trade for an hours worth of carb work?

 

What is the point in letting someone else tune your carb? If you ever ride in different altitude or different weather you wont know what to do if you let someone else do the work for you. If the bike wont start hold it wide open and kick it till it starts, once you have it running take a flat head and adjust the idle accordingly. then go to A/F screw. If the A/F isnt helping swap jets. you really dont need that many jets i would stick with 112,115,125 and 42,45,48. If you think you have the correct main in then just swap out pilot jets, pilot is idle and 1/8th throttle. Dont take it to someone who will charge you $65 to swap out some jets which takes minutes to do.

 

I know it takes all of 3 minutes to change jets. I am going to be going to carb school. I am not so much paying for him to do the work as much as I am paying him to let me learn. This will be a one time thing. I think it's worth $50 to learn some thing. After this I will be doing the carb myself.
I'm going to be working on it tonight and use all your suggestions but if all fails I will be letting them do the work while I learn.

 

Yes i screwed it all the way in then went out 1 1/2 turns back to where i have mine set.

 

I used your settings and was able to get the bike to fire off but I cant seem to keep it running. I'm going to pull the slide and make sure again where the clip is.

 

It's a keihin PE28mm Daytona spec from TBolt. I don't know what needle has. I was also looking at my TB performance 28mm carb. I think its an OKO and it has a fatter needle.
I checked again what position the clip was in and it was in the middle. I moved it up one spot so it should run leaner right?

 

I was just reading on the TBolt site that the KEIHIN 46-JFQ NEEDLE FITS PE28, PWK28, AND TB28 CARBS
Good for Bigger Builds and motors like Daytona 150cc , YX 160 and ZS 160 HO. DAYTONA suggested needle.
So this would mean that the needle in the TB 28mm carb that I had on the bike has a compatible needle?
The needle in the TB 28mm looks to be fatter.

 

Dang it. Im using jfn needle.

 

They come out of the box with jfn, we run the jfq on our anima 190s

 

What are guys running for jetting

 

125 main , 40 pilot , jfq needle - if it gets real hot out I go to a 38 pilot and 120 main

 

I swear this carb with like eight jets will run on any motor.

 

how would the needle from a TB 28mm performance carb compare to the jfq needle? The TB 28mm needle is fatter than the jfn. The needles are suppose to be interchangeable between the 2 carbs.

 

I got the bike to start but it is fouling the plug. I have the air fuel screw 2 1/4 turns out. It will not stay running tho. I am going to try to set the idle a little bit higher and see if that is any good.

 

JFN or JFQ... The last letter is how think the needle is.. The higher the letter say the Q the thicker or leaner the needle.. The lower the letter say the N the thinner the needle and the ricker it is. I also run the JFN needle. I dynoed both. I got a little better midrange power going with the richer needle (JFN) and leaner pilot 38 than I did with the the (JFQ) and richer pilot. The richer the midrange is without stumbling down low the more power you will make. But with a BBR U-Flow or a more restrictive air filter like a dirt filter with a pre-filter the JFQ needle is needed. I run on the street so I use a velocity stack or a Takegawa air filter you can see through so the richer needle is what I need. MCJ66106.. Post a pic of your carb. Where did you get it? How many vent lines does it have 2 or 3? I ask cause there is a 2stroke version of the PE28 with 3 vent lines and thats not the one we are all using. Also if it is a real PE28 look on the needle and just below the clip it will have some letters.. Might be NAP or JFQ or JFN.. I know that a 40 pilot on a JFN needle might flood where a 40 pilot will work fine with a JFQ needle... Also a TB28 carb and PE28 carb parts are totally different.. Only thing thats common is there both 28mm carbs..

 

View attachment 121799 View attachment 121800 View attachment 121801 I hope this would help. This is a 2 stroke PE28, hopefully the numbers on the carb body can help identify yours. The emulsion tube in this carb has no holes drilled in it. This is typical of emulsion tubes used in a 2 stroke carb. There is a vent that I plugged below the rubber vent that is visible. I contacted Taz about this carb a few months ago. These cannot be made to work correctly according to him.

 

2 vent lines
jfn needle it also has Keihen stamped on the top or bottom of the slide I cant remember
1.5 from base air fuel
1.5 from base idle
125 main
40 pilot

I ordered the carb from TBolt but the shipping box said it was from Wholesale-Cycle.

This is the carb.

Keihin PE 28mm CARBURETOR
Part No: WHS-1112
This is "THE" recommended carb for Daytona 150cc
Genuine PE 28 Round Slide
125 MAIN
40 PILOT
2in or 50mm air filter

The bike is running now better than it ever has. No bog down low and very snappy. Also it seems to have more power over the entire rpm range. The only thing wrong with the carb was the float height was set too high. He set the float height and put it back together and set it to the settings I listed and it runs like a banshee.
Oh and to top it off the guy from A and L Motorsports said he didn't feel right taking payment for the work since there was so little of it.

 

Great glad to see it was something simple like float height.. The thing must have been flooding out... Yea those 2 stroke carbs will trick ya lol...

 

Thanks and I was very surprised when it fired up after just that adjustment. I took the bike out last night and it's so much better than before with the TB28mm carb.

tbolt gets that carb from wholesale.glad you got it running

That's what I figured.

 

tbolt gets that carb from wholesale.glad you got it running