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Honda Nice 110 carb options...

10K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  Y2daT  
#1 ·
Those running a Nice 110, what carb are you using?

I hear the VM22 is the carb of choice but I'm having a damn of a time tuning mine.

Just curious what carb you are using and what jet settings you have.

:)
 
#2 ·
the 22mm should be a great pick....1st thing to check is gaskets and o rings .....are they torn or swollen....if there is an air leak you cant tune it.
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gaskets good and bolts tight. next check the fuel level in the carb bowl...should be about 1/8" below the top of the bowl gasket. ( if u connect a small clear fuel line to the bowl drain and turn the loose end of the fuel line up and then losen the screw above the drain the fuel line will fill with fuel and show the fuel level) if it is way low or high ..you will need to bend the tab on the float to adjust the fuel height.
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now crank it up and turn the idle screw in so it runs about 1500 rpms ...then adjust the mix screw to the middle point where it runs best. at idle ....then back the idle screw back to a normal idle...
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now we can plug read the main jet ..... you need a place where you can ride it wide open... and a clean spark plug....
. get the motor warm then put the clean spark plug in ...now crank it back up and ride it wide open for a few seconds then while still holding the throttle wide open hold the kill switch down till she cutts off and pull the spark plug and inspect the color of the plug. if it is black or dark brown it is rich and u need a smaller main jet...if it is bright white it is lean and you need a larger main jet....if it is creamy to light tan its ok...
...now for the mid throttle response adjust the needle height up or down till it responds the best with no dead spots.. and your all set.....
 
#3 · (Edited)
the 22mm should be a great pick....1st thing to check is gaskets and o rings .....are they torn or swollen....if there is an air leak you cant tune it.
Thanks. Been through that. Had an issue at first with the intake manifold to engine gasket. It would not idle, but does so now that I've replaced the gasket.

gaskets good and bolts tight.
Only weird thing is I cracked my carb insulator spacer, so I totally removed it and have a cork gasket there now to prevent heat transfer. Could this be an issue at all? I can't find a replacement carb insulator anywhere that will fit.

next check the fuel level in the carb bowl...should be about 1/8" below the top of the bowl gasket. ( if u connect a small clear fuel line to the bowl drain and turn the loose end of the fuel line up and then losen the screw above the drain the fuel line will fill with fuel and show the fuel level) if it is way low or high ..you will need to bend the tab on the float to adjust the fuel height.
I've thought about this, but really don't understand how to test it. I can't really connect a small clear line to the bowl drain because there is no bowl drain on the VM22...rather a 10mm bolt that houses the main jet. When you loosen the bolt the bowl will drain...but there is no real way to hook up a line to it because there is no nipple. I see there is a carb overflow line, that if the bowl overflows it will drain. That is it. Any idea's? The carb was brand new to start, and from what I've read there should be no real reason the factory setting would be off...and messing with this could just make things worse.
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now crank it up and turn the idle screw in so it runs about 1500 rpms ...then adjust the mix screw to the middle point where it runs best. at idle ....then back the idle screw back to a normal idle...
I can get a good idle from a 20, 22.5 and 25 main jet...so not really sure what i'm looking for as all 3 work well. Does the slow jet have any affect on the main jet or needle? Example, if I run a 20 slow jet and a 150 main, and then a 25 slow jet and a 150 main, will the WOT and mid-range of both bikes be the same...or does the slow jet affect the total mixture for the main jet and needle?

now we can plug read the main jet ..... you need a place where you can ride it wide open... and a clean spark plug....
. get the motor warm then put the clean spark plug in ...now crank it back up and ride it wide open for a few seconds then while still holding the throttle wide open hold the kill switch down till she cutts off and pull the spark plug and inspect the color of the plug. if it is black or dark brown it is rich and u need a smaller main jet...if it is bright white it is lean and you need a larger main jet....if it is creamy to light tan its ok...
...now for the mid throttle response adjust the needle height up or down till it responds the best with no dead spots.. and your all set.....
Can do. I will test. I do know now that at WOT it bucks and farts at about 6500rpm...the bigger the jet I run, the more it fumbles at high rpm to the extent that I can't even rev it out. The leaner I go, the better it goes.

I had a 145 main in it, but my mid range was impossible to tune but I could cleanly rev out. I've just been told the 145 is damn lean on this bike/carb setup so I almost feel bad running it so lean.

With the 150/60/70 my midrange is epic...just the WOT gets even worse.

So I can either get a good midrange, or a good WOT...not both.

And, to make matters worse, quick throttle inputs from low rpm will result in a stall. I'm not talking anything out of the ordinary. I have 7 other carburated bikes, and this one is by far the worst. I can't give more then 1/2 throttle till about 3000rpm or it will just plain stall.

If its any help to diagnose, today I have a 20 slowjet and 150main. Midrange was ok, idle was not perfect but alright...and at WOT it would hesitate going past 7000rpm. When i run 3/4 throttle I have more power than at WOT. At WOT when I let off, it farts a little as I get back into 3/4 throttle and then gets more power at less throttle input.

Just curious what jet settings other guys are running on this engine/carb setup.
 
#6 ·
Think I might go to a stock PB18 carb from Faddybike...comes with everything I need.

Image

Don't Imagine it will be down much on power than the VM22...and hope its a simple bolt on affair. I'm tired of not being able to ride this thing because of the jetting.

Might jet is slightly richer as I've got a free-flowing pipe.

What do you guys figure? Is the VM22 a better carb or will the PB18 be a good choice for me?
 
#7 ·
You should consult bob at motorcityminitrail He is the Nice expert and runs a stock Nice motor with the VM22 carb and he swears by it...I think he has 19000 miles on his stock nice engine right now with this combo. You should try him. for me, I've run the stock carb with much success, but also a VM20 with success too. Never tried teh VM22, but I'd guess it would be ok.

I'd suggest you continue to work with the carb. Maybe try a 160 main and a 17.5 pilot? The 20 pilot seems to be rich IMO for one of these.
 
#8 ·
Thanks. Bob is the king I agree. I've spoken with him lots. Very knowledgable.

He runs a 170 main / 22.5 slow setup. He said most his customers run a 160 / 22.5 and the odd person a 150 / 22.5

So...just one simple question. Does a smaller pilot affect the main jet or WOT? Example, a 160/22.5 vs a 160/17.5 at WOT. Is there any difference at WOT or both deliver the same amount of fuel?
 
#10 ·
Lots of options on carb insulators. email terry at firepower minis. same thing from the tb race head kits...other vendors like tbolt ahp, etc etc will have them too. The pilot does affect WOT...minimally. Think of it this way. Idle = pilot Midrange = pilot plus needle plus main WOT = pilot plus main...they are all connected to some degree...there's little impact of the pilot beyond idle, but there is still some. and the needle has a huge impact for midrange.
 
#11 ·
The Keihin PD22 is also a very good carb for this engine, and easy to tune. The stock Nice carb is waaay under jetted. It comes with a #78 main, which I guess is fine if you're also running the stock Nice airbox and pipe. Remember, the streets of Bangkok are sweltering year round, so what works ok there is not necessarily ideal for over here. Unless you live in the Keys...
 
#13 · (Edited)
I was half in my reply when I saw Branyers post.

What is your guys opinion on the PC20 vs PD22? What is the difference?

I've been told the PC20 is very easy to jet...and a good carb option for the CRF110...but from what I remember, the CRF110 only makes 5 or so HP, where the Nice 110 makes about 9 stock. That makes me wonder if the PC20 will be underjetted in stock form?

Let me know
 
#21 ·
PD22s are readily available from Honda. It is the same carb found on CRF100/XR100s. I have used both the PC20 and PD22 on a stock Nice motor. The PD22 provided superior performance. Likewise, the VM22 should perform just as well. I just prefer Keihins because they seem to be a little easier to tune.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Honda Manifold Kit 22mm Inlet Pipe Gasket Insulator PC20 C90 Cub Monkey Dax | eBay
this looks cheap to fix the intake problems .. and once u figure out the top end jetting by doing the plug reads then play with the needle height till u have no dead spots in the mid range.
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as far as the larger pilot jet also richening the top end id say yes it does if its larger as it adds more fuel at all throttle positions..
if u can get a good mix at wot and idle but still cannot dial in the mid you would have to fine tune the needle by doing mid throttle plug reads and setting the clip so its a tad rich ( brown plug ) and filing the needle skinnier.. a little at a time a doing another plug read to see the results.
.the best way to file the needle with out a machine shop is to put the needle in a drill . then use fine 300+grit wet sand paper .to take a tiny amount off the needle keeping its original pitch.then read it again at mid throttle.