anything built by Firepowerminis.com

 

160 sounds good imo

 

The 160 engines have more overall potential as far as bolt on bore size/roller rocker heads is concerned, if your 124 is running strong you could always just do a bore kit + bigger head on that. I guess it just depends if you will be happy with getting more power out of your current engine setup and of course just compare pricing to whatever fits your current budget

 

yeah i just dont know what would be the best bang for the buck. would i see that much more power from the 140's kits. I just dont know

 

yeah i just dont know what would be the best bang for the buck. would i see that much more power from the 140's kits. I just dont know

Not too much with just the bore, but you would do the 27/23mm head too probably? Te best kit power wise would be the TB160 bore + big valve head.

 

i would agree with mark , you may be better of just getting a Z155 or YX160

that Piranha 160 has been very sturdy with new cases an 15mm kicker shaft



We had quite a few GPX124cc builds going on a few years back and they can rip good

If you limited on funds and want to build the 124cc

stock head is restrictive so if your going to build it plan on going to a YX140/LF140 head or better

tb30/23 head



let me know if we can help

 

i would agree with mark , you may be better of just getting a Z155 or YX160

that Piranha 160 has been very sturdy with new cases an 15mm kicker shaft



We had quite a few GPX124cc builds going on a few years back and they can rip good

If you limited on funds and want to build the 124cc

stock head is restrictive so if your going to build it plan on going to a YX140/LF140 head or better

tb30/23 head



let me know if we can help

Also the 160cc bbk for the 125cc. It with a BVH or better but cost more, TB Race head, will be make more power then a stock KLX style 160cc can. more compression=more power you know and they will come out to be the same as far as price man. a 160cc kit is 529 I believe and a KLX gpx 160cc kit is around 559 I believe. (you will need a kit with either of them...) Vince at Tboltusa is a GREAT guy to work with and talk to as well.

 

Knowing your power goals, budget, how you use the bike, and what sort of performance vs reliability compromises you're willing to live with, will get you a more precise answer, FWIW



There are a lot of ways to make more power out there. Be realistic about how much you can or want to handle, in a pit bike chassis. Not seeing that many throttle cables with the end pulled off



Depending on the condition and amount of time on your bottom end, a 140-146 with a BV head isn't a bad choice. Watch the case bore doesn't bind the bottom of the jug, a common problem with the bigger bore kits. The 160 kit adds more power, reduces lifespan. Piston won't last as long as a skirted kit. Add in a lighter sling, likely a clutch rebuild at least, and you're near, or even over, new motor territory. You'll nearly double the stock power with a high compression 146, ported BV head, VM26.



The Daytona type YX150 is a great compromise. Built in oil filter, no sling, 60mm stroke for huge torque. Comes with a cam that's stouter than most aftermarket ones. A lot of motor for $379, and completely new.



The 155/160 KLX-headed motors cost more, will require a different pipe, or an adapter that may work, and a different intake manifold. Unless,,, you get one with the Honda port locations. I have new ones I can swap on if doing a build. 110-215cc versions available, a little farther up the scale...



FP

 

Knowing your power goals, budget, how you use the bike, and what sort of performance vs reliability compromises you're willing to live with, will get you a more precise answer, FWIW



There are a lot of ways to make more power out there. Be realistic about how much you can or want to handle, in a pit bike chassis. Not seeing that many throttle cables with the end pulled off



Depending on the condition and amount of time on your bottom end, a 140-146 with a BV head isn't a bad choice. Watch the case bore doesn't bind the bottom of the jug, a common problem with the bigger bore kits. The 160 kit adds more power, reduces lifespan. Piston won't last as long as a skirted kit. Add in a lighter sling, likely a clutch rebuild at least, and you're near, or even over, new motor territory. You'll nearly double the stock power with a high compression 146, ported BV head, VM26.



The Daytona type YX150 is a great compromise. Built in oil filter, no sling, 60mm stroke for huge torque. Comes with a cam that's stouter than most aftermarket ones. A lot of motor for $379, and completely new.



The 155/160 KLX-headed motors cost more, will require a different pipe, or an adapter that may work, and a different intake manifold. Unless,,, you get one with the Honda port locations. I have new ones I can swap on if doing a build. 110-215cc versions available, a little farther up the scale...



FP

Ya in some aspects your are correct terry but the reason I did the works on my motor is because... I LOVE HONDAS lol I also will be running a copper head gasket insead of the steel.. less likely to blow... I think the motor will be running very well and strong. I belive Vince did a very good job on the overall motor.

 

Different tweaks for different freaks

Around here, "The Works" doesn't stop at the base gasket.lol

I'm sure your motor will suit you nicely.

 

I was looking at the daytona motor. Im not building a race bike. Im a bigger guy and just need more power. I really think a new motor is needed.

 

Yep, cubes is King I'n doing strokers for a Lifan 150 and YX150 Daytona type right now, for similar reasons. Torque moves big guys up mountains, or something like that...

 

There are alot of options out there, personally though, I would stay away from the 160bbk on the 125 based engine, as stated,you will go through top ends about every five tanks of fuel.

 

There are alot of options out there, personally though, I would stay away from the 160bbk on the 125 based engine, as stated,you will go through top ends about every five tanks of fuel.

Why do you think that? Just curious I have one on my bike and havent ran it yet

 

Because it's the truth, like I posted, Matt posted, and I told you on the phone months ago, before a better deal came along... Short-skirted pistons, of that particular design, are a short-service-life item. Even a 450 Honda manual suggests 7 hour replacement intervals on it's slipper piston.

 

Why do you think that? Just curious I have one on my bike and havent ran it yet

dont worry brian , we have had quite a few race wins with the 160cc kits and it should hold up fine and if you ever need help you know were to find me

so give it hell , just dont get killed on that thing

 

Why do you think that? Just curious I have one on my bike and havent ran it yet

The key to getting the most out of this kit, is, always keep fresh oil in it, always let it warm up to operating temps before putting it under a load , and when doing the warm up do not rev it alot.



These pitstons do not have enough surface area for lubrication , they also rely on the sides of the piston as well as the minimal skirt for support, so they need to expand completly .

Take the extra time and you will get the most you can out of it.

 

dont worry brian , we have had quite a few race wins with the 160cc kits and it should hold up fine and if you ever need help you know were to find me

so give it hell , just dont get killed on that thing

hahaha thanks Vince I will do for sure! I will proably be checking in a week or so and grabing that decomp button as well, damn is this thing hard to kick compared to stock lol