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Fast Ace Steering Stem Length

5.5K views 41 replies 6 participants last post by  ky_savage  
#1 ·
I got these forks and went to install them, and found that the stem length is pretty long. The threads on the stem don't seem to go down far enough for the CRF. Here's a picture to show the length. Could someone confirm this?



Image




Image
 
#3 ·
u need to replace the shaft with this one... to fit a stock honda crf50f eBay Motors: Steering Column pitbike XR50 XR 50 70 CRF CRF50 SDG 8.5 (item 150155671887 end time Mar-19-09 15:45:47 PDT)



... what you have is the Pitbike Size... for longer Chinese head toobs... so ya... make sure to mesure the stearing stem that you have and see if the replacement one will fit..





>>i can asure you that if its a fast-ace tripple set... that shaft will fit... ive used it on mine and it worked... but double check with a digital caliper and compare it to the sizes he has shown in the listing.... to do this you will have to press the shaft out of the set you have... and if it is comperable to the replacement one i showed you... have that one pressed back into it.



good luck.
 
#5 ·
I don't think those are the FastAce tripples you have there. I have a brand new set of FastAce 02's sitting here and the tripple clamp and stem look nothing like yours. Also, the FastAce stem is alloy and yours is steel. That might explain why you have a different type of stem.



If it were me, I would put it together on the frame and if the bearings are fitting up correctly and your left with a stem sticking up a little too high, cut it down. Just make sure the threads still go down low enough for the cap nut to tighten down to the top clamp, if they don't (by say a 1/4" or less) You can always put some washers under the cap bolt to take the space.
 
#7 ·
GPX_YZ_mini said:
I don't think those are the FastAce tripples you have there. I have a brand new set of FastAce 02's sitting here and the tripple clamp and stem look nothing like yours. Also, the FastAce stem is alloy and yours is steel. That might explain why you have a different type of stem.



If it were me, I would put it together on the frame and if the bearings are fitting up correctly and your left with a stem sticking up a little too high, cut it down. Just make sure the threads still go down low enough for the cap nut to tighten down to the top clamp, if they don't (by say a 1/4" or less) You can always put some washers under the cap bolt to take the space.


The stem is too long and the threads aren't far enough down to tighten the nut good enough.
 
#11 ·
You do not have FASTACE clamps. FASTACE clamps are black. The top clamp you have is similar to Pitster/GPX clamp the bottom IDK. That top clamp is exactly like the one I got from TDR. You could see if you can find some real FASTACE clamps or take you stem to a machine shop and have them turn down the top bearing area to where you require it and also thread it a little lower too and then cut it shorter if need be. I would make sure that those clamps actually fit your fork tubes first tho....mock it up on the bike w/o bearings maybe.....FASTACE use 48mm clamps upper and lower
 
#12 ·
doopsx3 said:
You do not have FASTACE clamps. FASTACE clamps are black. The top clamp you have is similar to Pitster/GPX clamp the bottom IDK. That top clamp is exactly like the one I got from TDR. You could see if you can find some real FASTACE clamps or take you stem to a machine shop and have them turn down the top bearing area to where you require it and also thread it a little lower too and then cut it shorter if need be. I would make sure that those clamps actually fit your fork tubes first tho....mock it up on the bike w/o bearings maybe.....FASTACE use 48mm clamps upper and lower


The clamps fit the tubes, but the stem is too long. Where can I get a set of FastAce clamps? I've seen the entire setup with tubes, but not just the clamps.
 
#13 ·
You could also just cut and add a spacer above your top bearing if the bearings seat into your fifty neck ok.....then add your spaner nut and top clamp.

maybe too ghetto but will get you rolling until you have the stem turned threads cut and shortend.
 
#20 ·
Only added a spacer at the top. The only problem I have now is the nut on top of the top clamp. It is a cap nut. I need one like the stock clamp has. I need to go to the dealer to pick one up. It would be easier to get another nut than cut the threads off.
 
#21 ·
ky_savage said:
Only added a spacer at the top. The only problem I have now is the nut on top of the top clamp. It is a cap nut. I need one like the stock clamp has. I need to go to the dealer to pick one up. It would be easier to get another nut than cut the threads off.
add washers before the cap nut as needed...until you can get it cut....well I guess it depends how many threads are left......but you understand.
 
#24 ·
The tree is free of up and down and front to back play but still turns side to side smoothly...? If so you are good...like I first said..kinda ghetto way. but will work...just besure to check the spaner nut after your first ride. also tighten the top clamp on the tree before you tighten the top fork clamp.
 
#25 ·
ky_savage said:
There's 22mm of threads above the top clamp.



edit: Dealer doesn't have any in stock. They are $2.38. Won't be able to get it until next Tuesday.
if you have a bench grinder just grind the cap off... I need you to sign a waiver that if any happens I am not at fault........8)