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firepit

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So yes, another one.... Brandy new not run in 155z ho with pe28 carby, 105 / 35 jets, jfq needle, air screw out two turns . inline fuel filter, uni air filter, everything buttoned down good. Starts first or second kick idles mint and revs clean and crisp with no popping or bogging , quick as well as a slow roll of the throttle.... However... Put it in gear and start off and it bogs at 1/4 throttle .... Won't catch up in revs with a slow roll, if I put it back in neutral and rev it ... No issues. Any input on what I can check next ? Valve clearance maybe?
 
Here is a quick guide, not a quick answer but hope it helps Four-Stroke Carburetor Jetting Tricks on 4Strokes.com . Are your jets set for your altitudes, current temps and barometric pressure. I am in the desert at sea level so my jetting would differ most likely than yours.

To me sounds like your pilot jet is the problem because on a fast throttle its not getting the proper fuel/air ratio so it bogs but on a slow roll its not starving for fuel or air. Try setting your needle clip and test, If you don't know, each position of the throttle 0, 1/4 , half, full is controled by a jet so depending at what throttle postition you have the bog will tell you what jet is the issue.

here is a snipet from the link above.
"Your pilot jet (or slow jet) controls the idle circuit, or from zero to one-quarter throttle opening. The pilot jet and airscrew control the amount of fuel and air going into the engine at slow engine speeds. It's very important to tune these circuits because they control throttle response and starting."

Hope this helps and if not, sorry but I am sure its jetting.
Jay
 
[h=1]Engine and Carb quick check list - TBolt USA Tech Database![/h]
1)Install Intake manifold to head and carb, oil gaskets and tighten bolts lightly at first then torque then down gradually in a cross pattern to provide a good seal and avoid air leaks

2)Make sure the carb is 100% clean, free of debris and you can see light thru both main and pilot jets

3)Double check you valve tappet adjustment .003intake and .004exh.

4)Make sure your exhaust gasket is installed properly.

5)Make sure all electrical connections are tight and you have a solid ground from the engine to the frame.

6)Check for good fuel flow and fresh fuel.

7)See our jetting guide and do a plug read.
http://www.tboltusa.com/store/tech.php?pid=61
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Good info. Weather permitting I will be out tomorrow trying to dial it in again. 102 and 100 main on order to see if it sorts it out. On a side note, the pe28 I have has three vents on it, any changes that need to be made to this carb? Emulsion tube?
 
Theres your problem.. There has been 10 threads on this and I have been asked 100 times about this. That 2 stroke (3 vent carb) cant be made to work correctly. Post about in here (PE28 2 stroke carb can it work) and watch the flood begin. Everything about that carb is different and that bog cant be gotten rid of. First thing guys ask and look for when getting a PE28 on here is if it has 3 vents or 2. 2 vent carbs are 4 stroke carbs and work.. 3 vent carbs are 2 stroke carbs and came stock on 85s.. Good luck. Take a look... http://planetminis.com/forums/chine...ms/chinese-import-minis-general-discussion/163076-daytona-150-pe28-jetting.html
 
Carb on the bottom is wrong one. The proper slide has almost no angle on the back like the top carb. I took this picture cause I went through Hell with the wrong carb. Cannot be made to work. It ran good cold and really threw me off track.
 
If you're slide has a steep angle cut it won't work.
Best info yet. Thats exactly correct look at those carbs bottom one wont work.. Even with the correct slide it still wont work carb body and internals are different. Air circuit is a little different just need to get the correct carb for $120.00 from any vendor and be done. Where did you get that picture from Geezer thats awesome!!
 
I found out about the wrong carb the hard way. About the time I got back into pitbikes I got a new pe28. I had a hell of a time trying to get my SL to run rite. Tried 2 different ignitions then found the carb was the problem. It seemed to run ok then just cut out under load and wouldn't idle when it got warm. So it was a 2 stroke carb and they do not sell the slide. And like Taz said the whole thing is different New Daytona spec. Awesome!
 
Might wana post this carb for sell in the 2 stroke section... Its what comes on 85s. When you get the correct carb with either a JFN needle or a JFQ You are going to need 115,120,125 mains and 35,38 and 40 pilot.. With those jets that carb will work on a 124+R engine all the way up to my new YX 201cc TB (67mm) kit with a V2 head.. The carb dosent use any other jets than those.. It will work on a TB117 even with those jets.. On a side note the new TB (67mm) piston and cylinder is nice!!!!
 
Best info yet. Thats exactly correct look at those carbs bottom one wont work.. Even with the correct slide it still wont work carb body and internals are different. Air circuit is a little different just need to get the correct carb for $120.00 from any vendor and be done. Where did you get that picture from Geezer thats awesome!!
ok before i even go into anything i wanna first make is super clear I AM NOT BEING COCKY, ARROGANT, FULL OF MYSELF TRYING TO PICK A FIGHT ETC... this has caught my interest and would like to tech talk.

I personally have never had an issue using the cr85 pe 28 on a lil thumper, hell i don't even change the slide and alot of times will use the cr needles as well and have had good success with it. i know you do alot of your own personal testing have you ever done any back to back testing vs the CR pe28 vs the thumper pe? i am always game for unlocking more hp. i have used both carbs but never done any testing and configurations weren't even close to make a good guess-timation if one seemed to perform better than the other. like i stated previously i personally have never had any issues making the CR pe perform well for me. being i get a stellar deal through my local dealer on them i always use the cr pe when i'm looking to use a pe on one of my builds. so if you have done any comparision work and are willing to share i would love to see the results.

just so you know i'm not blowing smoke up your ass. i still have some proof of i have had good results w/ the CR pe

Image
graph of takegawa 124cc dohc 2 hoes stage 3 kit. which utilized the vm26, 2 hoes exhaust, i used a tokyo mods stage 3 ignition. no mod work such as porting was performed one of the graph lines was w/ timing advancment.
Image
results after mod. the 19.something line is the line of the dyno video. the following day i change cam grinds and cam degreeing and was able to squeeze out 21 somthing. these were done with a cr pe carb
rev clip of the modded setup w/ cr pe 28


i'm open to thoughts/opinions on the matter. i felt high 19's low 20s was pretty respectable # over what it pulled it stock form and from what your saying the CR pe should work at all right?
 
Hey Chad I never take it that you are trying to start a fight man :eek:).. Does the CR carb look like the second carb in the pic that Geezer showed. Does the slide have a big cut on the back of it. And does the air inlets and little idle holes of to one side like in the pic. I ask cause a while ago a Vendor on here sold me a carb just like the one Geezer showes the one on the bottom. And I never ran them back to back cause I couldnt ever even get the thing to run correctly at all. Just like Geezer said it would start and idle fine but when warm put it in gear and it wouldnt even run. So there was no way to even test it to the other PE28.. The top one he shows is the first one I got from CHP.. So when the second carb came and looked all different and wouldnt run at all I sent it back. A week after that the Vendor switched over to the Daytona spec or the carb on the top. Maybe a CR PE28 is different than the one in the pic. But that bottom carb with the cutout on the slide being big and the air idle holes off to one side I couldnt get it to run so I have no idea which one makes more power. I know im not crazy as Geezer said he couldnt ever get it to run he tried 2 ignitions.. I at least had the correct carb that I had from CHP so after a day of trying everything I could to make it run I sent it back cause I had the other carb to compare it to and the other carb ran mint on the same bike.. So I knew it wasnt electrical.. But I have no idea between the two which one makes more hp cause I could never get that carb in the pic on the bottom to even run up the road, so it would of never pulled on a dyno. I couldnt make it run.. Since then I have ordered 10 of those PE28s from G-Force that I showed listed and they come with a JFN needle and a 40 pilot and a 125 main I just swap the pilot for a 38 one swap the main for a 120 and it runs on just about anything. But I could never get that carb in Geezers pic the one on the bottom to run.. I dont know if the carbs you have are different than the one in the pick or maybe you can tell him what needle your running and what main pilot you are using. But I cant get it to run if its the one Geezer shows the bottom one in the pic..
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
:wavey:
Chad I'm interested to know what needle and jets you have been running in these carbs as well.
Not sure why the shit slinging is going on... I think this speaks volumes
ok before i even go into anything i wanna first make is super clear I AM NOT BEING COCKY, ARROGANT, FULL OF MYSELF TRYING TO PICK A FIGHT ETC... this has caught my interest and would like to tech talk.
Maybe you guys should arm wrestle? Wait.... A dance off!
 
firepit said:
:wavey:

Not sure why the shit slinging is going on... I think this speaks volumes

Maybe you guys should arm wrestle? Wait.... A dance off!
Ha ha deal if it can be ballet and if hot pink leotards are in order ;-). I don't remember needle numbers off hand. Jetting wise I fall within the range taz has stated 38-42 piolet 105-118 on main, depending on engine size and weather.
 
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