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ttr50rider12

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok just got some 2nd hand bshells and really want the damn brake to work lol the pads are good and i cant seem to bleed them, i have done quad brakes and everything but these dont want to go, i did a search and found a way by holding your finger over the piston but it didnt work for me, anyone have any quick simple tricks? Could it be because i have the caliper off the mount and ontop of the disk so the bleeder is facing up?

Ben
 
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#2 ·
You also want to have the master cyl slightly tilted up towards the lever end so that any air trapped in the line at the top can come back up through the reurn into the res. Turn your bars or tilt the master so the line is pointing down.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
ok i am going to try that, you think it would be easier with them off the bike lol?

Ben
 
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#5 ·
sometimes you need a good pressure bleed and some good fresh fluid to get some results. Remove as much you can from the master cylinder without getting any air in the system and add your fresh fluid. Crack the bleeder at the caliper and drain the old fluid out until your run the fresh fluid through. When your done gravity bleeding the line close the bleeder at the caliper and put your master cylinder lid on tight to setup the pressure bleed. Pump the brake lever hard a dozen or so times. Finally pump and hold the brake lever tight then reach down and just barely crack the bleeder on the caliper. (watchout for fluid underpressure squirting at you and make sure that you hold the pressure on the brake and dont let off). Close the bleeder before you have fully bottomed the stroke of the brake lever, if you dont you will suck air back into the line and your brakes will be worse than before. Pump the brake lever a couple times and repeat this process to ensure there are no air bubbles coming out. This is how I always bleed automotive systems and it worked great so I dont see why not for a dirt bike.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
hummm still no go, there is oil in the resi, but no oil seems to come out of the bleeder...i am guessing there is alot of air in there, i cant seem to get it to go...

Ben
 
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#7 ·
I had bombshells a while ago with no prob's, other than the pads or disk would get glazed over. Take some 80 grit paper and do a quicky on the disk and pads and they will work a million times better.
 
#8 ·
if the pressure bleed doesnt get the fluid to travel through the line and through the caliper then you might need to go to an automotive store and purchase a manual vacuum brake bleeder system or borrow one from someone. you might also have a clogged brake line or caliper?
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
hey bombshell guys, the cap says dot 3 or 4 but i am reading and hearing mineral oil...??? anyone else use dot?

Ben
 
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#10 ·
Hey guys, To bleed these properly you should get a Magura Bleeding kit. or take the caliper to a bike shop. Its not like bleeding motorcycle brakes at all. These are very similar to Maura Julie MTB brakes.





If it says mineral oil use MINERAL oil or your'll ruin the seals
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
it saysdot3 or 4 so i was using dot 4, and the stupid master cylinder seems to be messed up, there are not mtb shops around here...i guess i might take up dan (moosehunter) on his gustav brake offer...pisses me off they dont work though...

Ben
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
ok i took it apart well the line and caliper and master cylinder, and the line and caliper seem fine but the master cylinder dosnt seem to work... i am going to see if sano will replace it otherwise its gustav brakes becasue i would surely never pay for a new set of these crappy mtb brakes...

Ben
 
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#14 ·
I had the same problem with no fluid coming out on my Icon brakes. Here is what I did:



Take off the master cylinder cover, drain all old fluid out of whole system and fill it with new DOT4. SLOWLY, like really slowly pull in the lever, hold it for about 4 secs, then as slowly as before, let it out. Then wait a second and slowly pull it back in again and repeat. As you slowly pull it in, bubbles will start to come up outta the line like one at a time. It took me a good half hour, but thoroughly bled them and now they work great.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
james your brakes are much differnt then mtb brakes and the master cylinder dosnt seem to work on these...i filled the resi and took of the line so it was just the master and when you pull the lever nothing comes out.... so i am thinking there is a problem, i am thinking a clogg and sometimes the lever seems to stick...

Ben
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
well i ride it but its different, becasue i do braking like 70/30 so i count on front brakes to slow me down and i almost wrecked because i didnt have them, i called sano the guy told me he has heard they are hard to do, so he was looking into getting me some instructions for them, but i dont have a fax so he is trying to get it in pdf format for me....I mean if all else fails i am getting dans gustav brakes becasue i surely would not pay for a new set of these knowing how hard they are to bleed...

Ben
 
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Discussion starter · #18 ·
well sano said they were going to call me back about a pdf or simaler form of the instructions on how to bleed, they never got back to me, i will call back in like 5 mins... lol that never happend, and the guy goes yeah i never have done them myself but i hear they are hard to bleed.... lol and thats all the info he could give me...

Ben
 
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ttr50rider12
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