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First monkey bike, budget build, pure chinesium

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Does anyone know how difficult it would be to retrofit 88-99 z50r plastic/tank to this bike I have? I really love the look of them and don't have much problem cutting and adding some mounts here and there as long as the frame isn't radically different, I'm only toying with the idea in my head at the moment!!
 
#22 · (Edited)
That’s a lot of work. Certainly can be done...in fact I remember reading a thread of someone (maybe not on here) retro fitting an 88-99 setup to a frame. Thing is, it’s not just the tank. It’s the tank, rear fender/plastics, and the seat. Also, you can not move the tank around without moving the seat and plastics with. They all fit together. Oh, and the tank doesn’t look right on it’s own as it has a locating portion for the front portion of the seat.

If you really like the look, it would a million times easier to find a roller of one.

That said, have you looked into a Honda QR50/Minimoto seat setup on a monkey/Gorilla?? Now that’s a sweet, unique look.

Image


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Discussion starter · #23 ·
66Cooper said:
T

If you really like the look, it would a million times easier to find a roller of one.

That said, have you looked into a Honda QR50/Minimoto seat setup on a monkey/Gorilla?? Now that’s a sweet, unique look.
Click to expand...

Yeah I guess it would be quite a hassle, I do really like those qr seats with the gorilla tank but they seem pretty pricey! :(
 
#24 ·
They are! There are two different mounts you can get...but both are expensive. Then you have to get a seat...which only comes in red. They look super rad though, just wonder if they are comfortable to sit on or do you have to basically hold yourself on the seat with such and angle


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Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
66Cooper said:
just wonder if they are comfortable to sit on or do you have to basically hold yourself on the seat with such and angle
Click to expand...
They do look rad for sure! and yeah they do look like they lean forward a bit! Its probably not too bad if you have rear sets......

Rear sets, another thing id love to try out on this bike but again pretty costly!

I might have to keep my eye out for a set off a different bike, might be difficult to mod them to fit though
 
#26 ·
66Cooper said:
They are! There are two different mounts you can get...but both are expensive. Then you have to get a seat...which only comes in red. They look super rad though, just wonder if they are comfortable to sit on or do you have to basically hold yourself on the seat with such and angle


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Click to expand...
PM member hondafiddyman put one on his Gorilla and said it was not a comfortable ride.
 
#28 ·
The best seat still is the gorilla seat itself.
Backstepkits also introduce their own can of worms. Kickstarters which will not get past the step is just one of them. Ground contact in corners, seat position with handlebars.


ps. as owner of a baja(avatar), say plastic r with street gear, that seat is too low for me for long rides. Sharp knee angle and thin polster. I once did 120km(75mls) in three stages, I was very glad to get of at the end.
 
#29 ·
I can't imagine any of these bikes being super comfy. I mean, they are tiny bikes, better suited for a childs frame:) I'm not sure the furthest I have ridden mine but I'd imagine 75 miles would yield a similar result...but now I HAVE to try it. Haha!

I think that most of these builds are form over function. Somethings just look too damn cool NOT to want to install. Guess it depends what you want to do with it in the end. Is it a show piece or will you be putting thousands of miles on it?

The stock Monkey seat, as well as the stock Gorilla seat, both looks extremely comfy BUT (to me at least) both do nothing for the looks of these bikes. The seat you currently have is a really good looking option for a Gorilla tank in my opinion. Not as tall and chunky as the Honda Gorilla seat. I'd be happy with that!
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Maybe I wont delve into the rear sets and different seats then.. kinda glad though this setup is pretty comfy as it is to be fair!

Took it for a quick spin earlier and I don't know how much these wheels and tyres will effect the speedo, they're only a little smaller than the original wheels/tyres but the speedo goes off the clock to around 80 mph lol... maybe thats normal for 17-26t gearing and a 140 but I thought it would struggle to do 70mph

Got the rear wheel spacer in, needed a little file work to fit, not sure what hub this was made for exactly but does the job now!

Might get a little chain slap but nothing I'm not used too.. glad they're 3.5" though 3.75 or more probably would have been a struggle, with these tyres at least!


Also made a little bracket on the bar clamp for rpm/hour counter and a switch for variable rev limiter...



Might have to even make a little lightbar for this bike haha 5x xhp70.2 leds should do :D
 

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#31 ·
That spacer was for the front where is nothing on the one side. The rear has the extra bit for the sprocket.

If you want to get nerdy, you can measure both wheels setups and figure out how different they really are. Just need to find the circumference of both inflated setups.

I’ve done 65mph on my so far and let me tell you, feels like I’m breaking a land speed record from the saddle. Haha


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Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
66Cooper said:
That spacer was for the front where is nothing on the one side.
Click to expand...
ohh, on the website it didn't actually say front or rear so I had just presumed lol, should still be good I think!

Yeah I will have to measure and calculate it just incase.. funnily it actually felt pretty stable, considering I thought I'd need a stabiliser/damper but now I might not bother, I guess the extended frame/swing arm and forks the right way round helps a great deal at speed
 
#33 ·
I’d think you’d be fine with that spacer.

Just because it’s easy, you could just use your phone with a gps speedo app open on a nice clear stretch of road (no trees or tall buildings) to get an idea of speed.


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Discussion starter · #34 ·
66Cooper said:
Just because it’s easy, you could just use your phone with a gps speedo app open on a nice clear stretch of road (no trees or tall buildings) to get an idea of speed.
Click to expand...

Yeah I thought about this but I always thought gps speed wasn't very accurate? I guess it still gives another reading to compare against though
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Little update, Got the variable exhaust valve hooked up to the friction lever, works pretty well for a mock up / experiment :D

Also mounted the oil cooler on the forks as it fit quite nicely, only a cheap billet cooler atm, and whilst I was digging in the shed I found some old fork stanchion guards which are a bit big but thought I'd make use of them lol.



On another note I'm wondering if anyone can give any advice on a carb for a yx140, I was looking at the oko 26mm I currently have a molkt 26, does anyone know if this is a worthy upgrade or not?

Cheers.
 

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Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
update

nielspbr said:
Mikuni vm26-665, no copy.

(if I remember correctly mj around #140-#145)
Click to expand...
So I have this old mikuni I have no idea what its off but pretty sure its genuine, its 28mm.. it is missing the slide but the one from my molkt seems to fit, other than that its all there but the fuel float valve has no rubber, not sure if this is normal or not..


I don't know if this carb is worth tinkering with or not but I have my molkt working sweet now it just needed a slight tweak of the float height!


Also made an aluminium rear fender/ mud guard I think I've seen something similar on some z50r's - should help keep the water out of the battery panel.


Also dug up some random air cone and it was the perfect fit, epoxied some k&n filter mesh in there, not too bad! :D



And another monkey bikes appeared, my friend just picked one up himself a skyteam 125 so now I have someone to ride with! I think a few of my mates are gunna want their own now haha! :p




Edit; added some before pics of the bike from ebay on the first post
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
update - yx140 / yx149

Some other small bits changed..

Picked up a cheap new brake disc, still the same size but looks a little nicer :)


Got the variable exhaust valve sorted, before I couldn't get good friction on the lever to hold the butterfly valve closed but a small o ring fixed it and works perfectly now - super quiet or super loud !


Also dismantled the shocks to check what damping they had left, surprisingly they weren't too bad considering the state of the last bike they came off! I left them wound out just 5mm more at 275mm and I think the bike is really sitting sweet now!




Lastly I'm wondering if anyone here knows much about the yx149 engine, As far as I can tell it shares the same cylinder head, barrel and 56mm piston as the yx140 but has a different 60mm crank shaft does anyone know if it would be possible to run this crank on the yx140?

I have no idea if it would even fit they "look" similar, measurements unknown however but wouldn't running this crank reduce the compression a fair bit? or am I missing something?


If thats true I presume it would also increase torque and lower rpm which i thought might be more suitable for the road?

If anyone has any info on that would be great!

Cheers
 
#39 ·
Drive the nuts of the 140 and then switch to a complete 149/150-5 or whatever yx calls that hondalike head engine. Advantage bottom end 149, a regular oil filter and no more stripped screw heads on the oil spinner.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
nielspbr said:
Drive the nuts of the 140 and then switch to a complete 149/150-5 or whatever yx calls that hondalike head engine. Advantage bottom end 149, a regular oil filter and no more stripped screw heads on the oil spinner.
Click to expand...


Haha I kept telling my self to do this but when these engines break they're just so cheap to repair I can't resist - unless something completely grenades and its just not worth it that is! :D
 
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