PlanetMinis Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

yet another big valved anima build.

Jump to Latest
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 77 Posts

storminnorman07

· Registered
Joined
·
3,191 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I did a thread a while back on a big valved anima head. This time around I'm going really push boundries. Last build I did a 26mm intake 22mm exhaust setup wit stock cam. All and all I performed pretty stout. This time around I'm going to do 27mm intake valves 23mm exhaust valves and a regrind on the cam. With the larger valves and cam regrind I think the ole gal will really zing.

So here's where im at so far


start of guides



 guides almost done



View attachment 152617 guides tapered and nosed

So one may ask why chit can guides from a brand new head? Well.... it must of been saki thirty early over at the Daytona compound

all (4) guides were machined like this. Plus valve stem to guide clearance was awful. Also and must of deleted the picture but they guide bores were oblonged due to poor machining

After getting new guides turned I knocked out the old seats and welded uo the combustion chamber



After getting it all welded up I roughed in the combustion chamber shape and cut in for the oversized seats.


go big or go home right
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Got the intake seats turned and pressed into the head tonight



I turned the exhaust seats down when to press them in the head and they just dropped in. I went back and re mic-ed the counter bores. It hit me pretty quick what bone head move I pulled. It was late last night when I wrote down dimensions needed for the seats. My tired sloppy handwriting bite my arse. I thought I wrote 0.951" in reality it was suppose to be 0.961". I'm a little bent around the axles I spent all that time machining the seats and they won't work with this head. Oh well no harm I'll just have to make a couple more.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #9 ·
RadRides404 said:
What kind of price range would you say a overhaul on a daytona 190 head would cost of this nature or there of?
Click to expand...
Have you hit the lottery or robbed a bank lately? Price will vary depending on what kind of valve material you wanted to go with. A rough ball park to duplicate what I'm doing now 2500-3k range

Another thing I want to point out cause I get a lot of guys that ask me about doing this kind of head work. In order to go with bigger valves your have to go with at least a 66mm bore.

here's the stock 190 piston. It may be hard to see in a picture but the valve sticks out passed the piston. So if one were to try and slap this head on a factory bore 150 or 190 the valves would clobber the cylinder upon opening


This particular build will get a 150 crank with 70mm bore making it a true 190 so it will be bigger bore than this head gasket.

 66mm head gasket



 just fits. As your can see anything smaller and you'd have a ton of shrouding potentially piston to cylinder clearance issues
 
#13 ·
What's your technique for welding up that head? Do you heat the whole head before you start? are you mig/tig it? What alloy are you using? I've struggled quite a bit trying to weld up a head to mod the combustion chamber. Wondering if you have any tips you can share?
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
fatcaaat said:
What's your technique for welding up that head? Do you heat the whole head before you start? are you mig/tig it? What alloy are you using? I've struggled quite a bit trying to weld up a head to mod the combustion chamber. Wondering if you have any tips you can share?
Click to expand...
I'm a self taught welder so for all I know I could be doing things the hard way or wrong. But for what it's worth this is the process I do for welding heads.

If it's a used head I'll first walnut blast the head. If the head Is really nasty and/or casting looks really porous after blasting I'll boil the head in water for a lil while.

I then will take it to the porting bench and take a carbide to the combustion chamber.

I then will brake clean the combustion chamber and blast it wit compressed air til dry.

From there I'll hit it with a mapping gas torch. I don't really torch it for preheat. I torch it to burn off any contaminates. When you first hit it with the torch it will condensate. I'll continue with evenly heating until the condensation dissipates.
Once that is done I get after it with the welder.

I have both tig and mig. Don't know why I keep the mig cause I seriously haven't used it in easily 2 years. Anything aluminum I tig.

As far as rod I personally like 5356 its stronger than 4043 but tends to get porosity when used to weld aluminum castings.

4043 is fine and usually a pretty good choice for castings because the silicon content makes it a close match for most aluminum castings.

4047 usually is better for preventing porosity.
 
#17 ·
storminnorman07 said:
I'm a self taught welder so for all I know I could be doing things the hard way or wrong. But for what it's worth this is the process I do for welding heads.

If it's a used head I'll first walnut blast the head. If the head Is really nasty and/or casting looks really porous after blasting I'll boil the head in water for a lil while.

I then will take it to the porting bench and take a carbide to the combustion chamber.

I then will brake clean the combustion chamber and blast it wit compressed air til dry.

From there I'll hit it with a mapping gas torch. I don't really torch it for preheat. I torch it to burn off any contaminates. When you first hit it with the torch it will condensate. I'll continue with evenly heating until the condensation dissipates.
Once that is done I get after it with the welder.

I have both tig and mig. Don't know why I keep the mig cause I seriously haven't used it in easily 2 years. Anything aluminum I tig.

As far as rod I personally like 5356 its stronger than 4043 but tends to get porosity when used to weld aluminum castings.

4043 is fine and usually a pretty good choice for castings because the silicon content makes it a close match for most aluminum castings.

4047 usually is better for preventing porosity.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the seminar, Chad. Glad to hear you being careful about burning off contaminants. Don't know if you saw this one: Safety Alert! Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Gas - BREW Bikes LLC ever since reading that, I have been a lot more careful welding.
 
#18 ·
Thanks Chad. I am going to try monkeying around using my cobra torch and the alloy's you recommended and see how that plays out. I have a Mig setup for aluminum but have not had success running it on castings. I have been successful welding aluminum with my cobra, but have not tried castings with it. This info should help me see what I can do.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
fatcaaat said:
Thanks Chad. I am going to try monkeying around using my cobra torch and the alloy's you recommended and see how that plays out. I have a Mig setup for aluminum but have not had success running it on castings. I have been successful welding aluminum with my cobra, but have not tried castings with it. This info should help me see what I can do.
Click to expand...
I agree every time I attempted to mig weld cast it turned out like hell. Hopefully one of those rods will work out for you
 
1 - 20 of 77 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
About this Discussion
76 Replies
16 Participants
Last post:
storminnorman07
PlanetMinis Forums
posts
2.1M
members
63K
Since
2003
PlanetMinis forum is the internet's largest mini bike community. View thousands of photos, event coverage, tips, tricks and performance mods.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
CRF50 KLX110, DRZ110, TTR90 Chinese/Import Minis - General Discussion Z50, CT70 and JDM Monkeybikes Complete Bikes For Sale - All makes and models