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Modified BW80 Yamaha

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#221 ·
Had some time to kill so headed out to the garage to do a little project I have been putting off for a while now. I have been mulling over an easy way to put a chain roller on the lil guy without welding it to the frame. Surely there are better ways to do this but here's my approach. It will be mounted behind the tab so the guard can stay intact. Just need some longer bolts, nuts and a little paint to keep the rust at bay. Note: I am only doing this because the bike has been lifted.

 
#222 ·
Ok, so its been a while since I have been on,but I finally got mine going, and in my excitement,spun the back tire from the rim and the valvestem broke off. My stupid questions:
1. The what I think is stock tire says tubeless, but mine had a tube in it. Do you guys run tubes?
2. If so,what size tube, as clearly they don't make the correct size anymore?

I want to buy a replacement back tire, Im just not ready to drop the money yet. So I want to roll with what I got for now.
 
Discussion starter · #223 · (Edited)
I've had mixed results running tub type tires tubeless. Since your tire is tubeless then it would have more to do with the stock 2 piece rim leaking than the tire. I'd try putting a valve stem in the rim, getting it all cleaned up real good and see if it holds air.
 
#224 ·
So I found an old valve stem laying around and tried to inflate the tire as it should be. I used a ratchet strap around the tire and stepped on it and such, but couldn't get the tire to air up by myself. I will try again tomorrow, but I am at this point kind of set on trying to find a tube instead of messing around for hours. If the tire is 19x9.00x7, I was wondering if a tube I found on ebay would work, it is 18x7x7. Seems like it should be close. Thoughts?
 
#225 ·
I have never had good results running a tube in an atv tire with low psi. I know you don't want to buy a new tire but off brand replacement tires that are close in size are available for around $50 on eBay.
 
#226 ·
Last I checked, I could only find them for @$100. After rereading this thread I forgot about the Duro. Makes the most sense to not deal with tube, as clearly I just spun this one destroying the valvestem. So I just bought the Duro HF277 Thrasher for $57. Thx for the advice guys! Now hopefully I can get it inflated once it gets here!
 
#227 ·
Tire came yesterday! Gonna put it on and ride around the yard today. I got a few more questions for anyone willing to help.
1. Can anyone tell me if those knockoff plastic kits (tank, fenders, seat,etc) on ebay for the PW will fit the BW, or specifically what will and what wont if so?
2. Aside from buying the whole "hop up kit" for the PW, Where can I get the direct to carb Air Filter in lieu of using the stock carb boot? I see the filter I want on PW Only, but cant find it separate anywhere. It has to be available, I just cant find it...? Thanks
 
#228 ·
Nice did you get the 19x8? None of pw plastics will fit the bw (air boxes are the same though). DC plastics makes bw front and rear fenders, sometimes they sell the "seconds" on eBay for cheap. With the air filter maybe you can just measure the carb and then just order that size from kn?
 
#229 ·
Yes, I got the Duro HF 277 Thrasher 19x8x7. $57.72/free shipping off ebay, and now it just raised to $63 since I bought it. The tire came with a Partsunlimited label on it. Ok, I will keep an eye out for the plastics. Darn, was hoping to get the whole deal for $85! And ya, I was going to measure, was just hoping to cheat and make the process easier
 
#230 ·
234wheeler said:
I've had mixed results running tub type tires tubeless. Since your tire is tubeless then it would have more to do with the stock 2 piece rim leaking than the tire. I'd try putting a valve stem in the rim, getting it all cleaned up real good and see if it holds air.
Click to expand...
Ok, so I am swapping out the tire now. I was expecting the rim to be a simple 2 piece/bolt together rim based on this. Maybe on some, but I am almost positive that mine is stock, and it is Not a 2piece. It was originally 2 piece, but it appears stock/factory welded and painted along the seem. Interesting.
 
#232 ·
No big deal, I was just hoping for an easy change and I was curious if mine really was stock, or perhaps different years were made differently! Wasn't too bad anyway and got I to air up fairly quick surprisingly. Wow, what a blast. Runs great on choke, take it off, not so much. I just did what I could to get it running and ride it a bit. Gonna rebuild and dip the carb and then start prioritizing what to buy next! Though the tire doesn't look as cool as the original, I couldn't believe how much taller it made the bike when aired up, so that was a plus, and didn't rub when bottoming out.
 
Discussion starter · #233 · (Edited)
Probably just a plugged pilot jet. The small port in the carb body that's under the pilot jet when you remove it can get plugged too. Had me pulling my hair out because the jet was clean and it still wouldn't idle correctly. Glad to hear the tire is working out. How about some pic's?
 
#238 ·
jaws said:
How hard was it to swap the tire? Do you have specialized tire tools? I just have motorcycle type tire levers not sure if they will work.
Click to expand...
I didn't think it was bad at all. The width of the rim made it easier to spread and angle the tire, and pull off the old one with relative ease. The biggest obstacle was the edge of the rim, be carefull with it and tire irons or even screwdrivers, as it bends rather easily, and is shaped such that it holds on the tire, making the old tire come off easy, but more difficult to put the new one on. I used Dish soap around the bead on both sides, and that was the biggest help. It would be easier if you have another set of hands, but I was able to stand on one edge of the tire to get it started, and then just slowly creep it around on each edge. I have home made tire irons, which are wider then large screwdrivers, but as long as you are careful, screwdrivers even shouldn't hurt the new tire. To air it up and seal the bead, I removed the valvestem core, and used the compressor to force air in. I wrapped the tire with a ratchet strap and again stood on the tire(only with the tread facing the ground this time). Once the bead took, quickly put the core back in and put more air in, released the strap, and then inflated to pressure.
 
#239 ·
Sprockets...I think the stock front was 15 and rear was 32. I read on this thread to drop down one on front to 14? and leave the rear? There are plenty of options I have found, from 12-15 F and 31-45 Rear. I want a lot more low end, as just riding in the yard or smaller areas, second gear is almost a stretch at times, and id rather it be setup for low end opposed to top speed. Any recommendations/experiences in changing?
 
#240 · (Edited)
I just put on a 13T on one of mine to try it out. It's not a huge difference but it is easier to get the front up now. I didn't really check what the top speed effect was. One of mine had a 15/45 and that was fun if you don't need to go fast. I take mine to the sand dunes for pit/camp bikes and you can barely use 3rd, I hope the 13 is enough to make a difference in the sand.
 
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