Picked up a 2000 pw80 this morning. Decent shape nothing spectacular but runs pretty good. Has a fmf fatty/turbine core already on it so I don't have to buy them. 400 clams. Here is how it sits today, that'll change soon.
New PW80
bigmatthew46
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I've read 1mm is a good place to start. How did 4 balls work. I drained my fluid last night & was going to do the ball mod. I was going to start with 2 but if 4 is the ticket I'll do that.
Removing the steel balls was a great mod. I've read that if you are a heavier rider (adult) it can cause clutch slippage if you remove too many balls. My 170 lbs rides it occasionally and my 60 lb son rides it all the time with no problems. I filled the case back up with 10W40 non energy conserving oil. I'd definitely recommend removing at least 2.
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532 Posts
So I removed 2 balls from my clutch & did a little milling of my head. Made a pretty nice difference but my pilot jet plugged up so I didn't get to ride much. Pretty sure I need a new top end as I'm about 99% sure it's the original 00 top end. I'm not sure what my compression is so I'll try to take it this week sometime.
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112 Posts
Get a suzuki ds80! It has the old air cooled rm80 engine that's detuned but can easily be modded up, it also has a five speed clutch! This is mine!
Sent from my ds80x or xr100r using Planet Minis
Sent from my ds80x or xr100r using Planet Minis
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Hi there im from uk and i thought i show u my pimped out pw80 i done last summer still got loads more to do on her
She has stiffened front forks and extender on rear shock
punture proof liquid in both inner tubes
Digital rev counter fitted
Digital speedo fitted and Pro grip gel grips
Renthal bar pad and New throttle and choke cable
Old early 80's pw80 cdi (no rev limiter) and performance coil with waterproof spark plug cap and twin spark sparkplug ( 2 sparks at once)
Boysen Dual stage power reeds and FmF fatty and FmF powercore 2
Moose racing air filter and removed snorkel from air box and widened hole and meshed over
Carb has been cleaned and 125 main and 30 pilot
oil injection pump tuned and using castrol high performance 2st oil
Inline fuel filter and new carb hoses
New piston rings and small end bearing
Amr custom made bike sticker set and custom made seat cover
Front sprocket 13 (stock 15) Rear sprocket 31 (stock 32)
PW80 only front fender and number plate
CLICK ON PICTURES FOR BIGGER IMAGE ( WELL WORTH IT )
I going to do porting and compression mods in summer but as she is she a lot faster than stock pw80 of my brothers
i got u tube vids of her
check out my channel and subscribe if u like lol
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Any questions please just ask
also for more pw80 info check out (thumpertalk) and look for special intrest pw/mini section on forum and there awesome pw80 thread there and guy called smarconi is a pw80 god he done pretty much anything u can do to a pw80 and has dyno to back it all up
She has stiffened front forks and extender on rear shock
punture proof liquid in both inner tubes
Digital rev counter fitted
Digital speedo fitted and Pro grip gel grips
Renthal bar pad and New throttle and choke cable
Old early 80's pw80 cdi (no rev limiter) and performance coil with waterproof spark plug cap and twin spark sparkplug ( 2 sparks at once)
Boysen Dual stage power reeds and FmF fatty and FmF powercore 2
Moose racing air filter and removed snorkel from air box and widened hole and meshed over
Carb has been cleaned and 125 main and 30 pilot
oil injection pump tuned and using castrol high performance 2st oil
Inline fuel filter and new carb hoses
New piston rings and small end bearing
Amr custom made bike sticker set and custom made seat cover
Front sprocket 13 (stock 15) Rear sprocket 31 (stock 32)
PW80 only front fender and number plate
CLICK ON PICTURES FOR BIGGER IMAGE ( WELL WORTH IT )
I going to do porting and compression mods in summer but as she is she a lot faster than stock pw80 of my brothers
i got u tube vids of her
check out my channel and subscribe if u like lol
Any questions please just ask
also for more pw80 info check out (thumpertalk) and look for special intrest pw/mini section on forum and there awesome pw80 thread there and guy called smarconi is a pw80 god he done pretty much anything u can do to a pw80 and has dyno to back it all up
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532 Posts
I dropped my seat off at a local upolstery shop to have it made in to a tall seat. Called me today & said it was done so I pick it up in the morning & I'll post some pics. I thought the stock seat was comfy but with the back end raised up it caused me to slide down into a hole. Hopefully this will fix that.
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Not the sexiest thing but quite functional.
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Yah does look a little goofy
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Good idea! The oil injection is more precise
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Depends on the type of pump and how it's driven. Some auto-lube systems can vary from 100:1 to 8:1 between idle and WFO.
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112 Posts
My ds80 has cci and not only do I want to leave it I have to leave it
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Not really, crankcase vacuum draws the air-fuel mixture through the carburetor into the crankcase. Then the air-fuel mixture is forced through the transfer ports into the cylinder. It's called port loop scavenging.My ds80 has cci and not only do I want to leave it I have to leave it
If you ran premix in the tank, oil would still lubricate the bearings and cylinder. Can't get any more precise than running premix. Autolube systems on 2-strokes were developed for people who didn't want to premix fuel and oil. In the 70's engine manufacturers realized they could pass tightening exhaust emission requirements by reducing the amount of oil. The blue smoke, opacity, you see coming from a 2-stroke exhaust is unburned hydrocarbons.
As has been proven many times, the more oil you run in a 2-stroke, the more power it can produce,
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But the right side crank bearing is blocked off and on the back of the pump there is a passage that brings oil to the bearing there is also a line going to the carb! It's called suzuki CCI crank/carb/injection is what cci stands for
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X2 looks low
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You're not really sitting much higher when the foam compresses. Those are the same height as 50 bmx bars. Seat looks goofy but it's way more comfy. Bike straight rips now with the new top end & milled head. Power wheelies like nobody's business. Eats my 88rh for lunch.
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164 Posts
I haven't seen a single bike on here that is modified enough to warrant eliminating the oil injection.
I've never seen an oil injection unit fail and cause a bike to sieze.
The yamaha units are also adjustable (atleast on the PW50) so you can have it add more oil as your modded motor requires more.
The "100:1 to 8:1 between idle and WFO" comment sounds correct. That's exactly what you want it to do. That's why the throttle cable is attached.
Running straight gas and jetting the bike correctly will ensure the most consistent performance. (The fact that the oil injector adds oil will not change the jetting or the Stociometric ratio).
Until you're getting 15hp out of your PW, keep the injection and ride worry-free.
Just my humble opinion.
I've never seen an oil injection unit fail and cause a bike to sieze.
The yamaha units are also adjustable (atleast on the PW50) so you can have it add more oil as your modded motor requires more.
The "100:1 to 8:1 between idle and WFO" comment sounds correct. That's exactly what you want it to do. That's why the throttle cable is attached.
Running straight gas and jetting the bike correctly will ensure the most consistent performance. (The fact that the oil injector adds oil will not change the jetting or the Stociometric ratio).
Until you're getting 15hp out of your PW, keep the injection and ride worry-free.
Just my humble opinion.
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112 Posts
That's what I thought
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I think it was the first Suzuki TS models where the oil injection pump was driven off the output (countershaft sprocket) shaft. Idling in traffic delivered no oil and coasting at high speed, with the throttle closed, delivered so much oil it often fouled the spark plug. Oil injection pumps got a bad rap after that. The few failures I have heard of were from running the tank dry.
My '85 RZ350 had oil injection. It was basically stock other than removing the cats and rejetting the carbs.
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