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gman74

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to get a set of 80/90 10" street tires seated on a set of 10" skunkwerx wheels. Tires and tubes are on, but the whole tire isn't evenly riding on the rim. Nearly 3/4 of the tire is sitting properly.
Any suggestions for getting the tire evenly installed?
 
Deflate the tire, spray Windex on the bead and rim. Re-inflate, but never exceed 50 psi. Bounce the tire on the ground a few times if the bead still doesn't seat. Reduce to rated tire pressure after brad seats. Wait about an hour before riding so the Windex dries.
 
vintagemx said:
Deflate the tire, spray Windex on the bead and rim. Re-inflate, but never exceed 50 psi. Bounce the tire on the ground a few times if the bead still doesn't seat. Reduce to rated tire pressure after brad seats. Wait about an hour before riding so the Windex dries.
Why not excede 50psi? Im sure those tubes can hold more than that. On car tires it says never excede 40psi when seating bead and sometimes it takes over 100 to get the bead to pop. In fact i did a set of 225/45R17 tires on a vw today and they took about 90.. super loud. done truck tires that took like 120psi, that shit was scary

My point is just because it says dont do it doesnt mean you cant if it takes more. But do be careful because an exploding tire can kill you or blow your limbs off. If im afraid it might happen i usually.put the tire on the other side of a car or something
 
vintagemx said:
The tubes will fail especially cheap ones. Never had one I couldn't get the bead to seat at 50 psi.
Yea thats true i didnt think about the different thicknesses of tubes. Valid point sir!

Couldnt you run the skunkwurks wheel tubeless? Thers nowher for them to leak from if you put a normal valve stem in right? Ive only seen pictures of them so just a thought
 
ducKhunt said:
Take it to a place that deals with tires and let them figure it out? That might be the best option.
Well i work at a tire shop and as long as it doesnt have spokes or any other holes besides the valve stem in the wheel you could go tubeless if you get tubeless tires
 
Yea I have a skunkwerx rim also and when I went to the tire place they told me I could run one of them tubeless as well, I dont remember if they told me fron or back though. Im also wondering if it might be better to run a tube at least on the rear
 
ducKhunt said:
Yea I have a skunkwerx rim also and when I went to the tire place they told me I could run one of them tubeless as well, I dont remember if they told me fron or back though. Im also wondering if it might be better to run a tube at least on the rear
The deal with tubes, at least in car tires, is when you puncture the tube youre done... its flat. With tubeless you can ram a quick plug patch in it or use fix a flat and get somewher to get it fixed. Tubes have to taken out and patched and thats a pain in the ass usually

I realize for motorcycles most of the riding wont be wher you cant just push it somewher to work on it, but for trail riders on street legal bikes a tubeless might be a good option. Then all you need is some fix a flat and a plug patch in your bag instead of tire irons and a tube. Of course if you have a massive blow out youre fd but ive never seen that on a mini lol
 
moto234 said:
... but for trail riders on street legal bikes a tubeless might be a good option. Then all you need is some fix a flat and a plug patch in your bag instead of tire irons and a tube.
New trials bikes run tubeless tires on the rear. Mostly because the low pressure they run, 2 to 5 psi, will almost certainly cause a pinch flat on a tube, which looks like a snake bite. The other benefit is no need for a rim lock as the tire can spin on the rim without ripping out the valve stem.

I've temporarily fixed flat tubes/tires using fix-a-flat in a can, but I've never had a flat with Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Duty tubes. They are the heaviest tubes you can get. I run them on all my bikes now. If I can't repair a flat on the trail I'll zip-tie the tire to the rim and limp back to the pits.
 
vintagemx said:
New trials bikes run tubeless tires on the rear. Mostly because the low pressure they run, 2 to 5 psi, will almost certainly cause a pinch flat on a tube, which looks like a snake bite. The other benefit is no need for a rim lock as the tire can spin on the rim without ripping out the valve stem.

I've temporarily fixed flat tubes/tires using fix-a-flat in a can, but I've never had a flat with Bridgestone Ultra Heavy Duty tubes. They are the heaviest tubes you can get. I run them on all my bikes now. If I can't repair a flat on the trail I'll zip-tie the tire to the rim and limp back to the pits.

Im gonna have to check out the bridgestone tubes when/if i pop one or when i upgrade wheel situation. The ziptie idea is great! Ill have to remember that for the future
 
BILLET said:
Yes you should use the rim lock. That will alow you to lower your tire pressure if you need to and not have to worry about spinong the tire on the rim. AND THE FRONTS ARE NOT TUBELESS, NEVER WERE.
Wish you were still crankin them out B ! Bet you still have a sweet collection of them though !
 
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