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Discussion starter · #23 ·
I think I found out what the problem is gentlemen... DuckHunt knows his stuff... I had the throttle cable where it didn't have much slack. I took everything apart, and I started messing with the throttle and noticed the slack.... I adjusted it and now the slide has a longer ROM... stay tuned!!
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
The 50 lives!! Had to mess with the idle screw some but she started right up and stayed running. Turned out to be the throttle slack issue. I had the slide in right but it wouldn't fall down enough from me having the slack too tight.



I still have the bogging out at high rpms. It runs great right until the engine starts revving pretty high. It won't go past a certain point. Could it have something to do with the thing pictured below? It is connected to the case then in the little black housing. Should I un-plug this stuff??

Or is it more than likely the jets still clogged? Thanks again guys, I'm really close to getting it right!

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lol don't take my advice but if it was me that thing is already in the garbage can.....looks like a good "ashtray" to me ...sorry (the high-life is starting to put its 2c in)! I don't know what that is but it looks like calli emis s*** just vent the crank case where it connects.... the bogging at high rpms to me sounds like u need to re jet the main jet once yer over 3/4 throttle the main jet is the adjustment unless something else is wrong
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
lol don't take my advice but if it was me that thing is already in the garbage can.....looks like a good "ashtray" to me ...sorry (the high-life is starting to put its 2c in)! I don't know what that is but it looks like calli emis s*** just vent the crank case where it connects.... the bogging at high rpms to me sounds like u need to re jet the main jet once yer over 3/4 throttle the main jet is the adjustment unless something else is wrong
YEah if it is some emissions junk then it will look great in my trash can, along with the stock air filter and housing! lol

So not to sound like a numb nut, but how do I re-jet the main jet?
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
On the carb, which screw is what? The idle is the phillips head one. What are the other two?

From looking at it, is the bottom flat head for fuel? And the one next to the idle screw for air??
 
1) Im not sure what carb you are running exactly but besides the idle screw one of the others is either the fuel/air screw and the other one is a screw to drain the fuel that is in the carb bowl. When you turn this screw,which is likely the lowest screw on the carb, the fuel from the bowl will drain from the little black hose positioned at the bottom of the carb. To figure out if the fuel/air screw is either can be determined by its position on the carb itself, if it is positioned kind of near the big hole that air flows through where you attach your pod filter then it is likely an air screw, if the screw is positioned more along the middle body of the actual carb usually in line with the pilot jet then it is likely a fuel screw. This screw helps to adjust how the bike runs at idle and I believe maybe with some slight throttle like 1/4 or less. Pictures always help (unless their already is one up showing the screws, I just dont remember atm).

2) The little black thing you are pointing at in your recent pictures can be removed. What happens is the air from the venting of the crankcase was sent into this little thing and then sent into the big black thing, that houses the air filter on a stock engine, then into your engine for combustion, so yea its kind of an emissions thing. If you remove this and pull all the hoses running to it and away from it you should see a little spout type thing sticking from out of your cases. Take some vaccum hose and attach it there and run the hose down the back of your engine towards the ground in the area in front of your rear tire. A long enough hose should keep dirt and debris from going up the line and into your cases, and should allow your cases to vent. If you want a shorter line and feel like spending 15-20$ you can run a shorter line from this spout and attach a filter to it (uni makes a small little filter especially for this kind of thing).

3) Jetting is something your going to have to take the time to learn how to do correctly, you will likely need to buy different size jets specifically for your carb to replace your current jets or you can adjust the needle height inside of your slide. You tube videos and research will help you learn about re jetting.

Good luck, Im glad your bike is running a bit better now.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks man, yeah the bike is running much better now. I'm only experiencing issues once the bike gets higher in the rpms. It hits that certain point and doesn't want to climb anymore. Here is what the carb looks like.... I played with the air screw some a while ago with no advancing in the right direction. Looks like rejetting takes time and patience. I'll have to take some beer to my buddy's house and bribe him to help me with that one :D
I would like to exhaust some other options before I start ordering jets and what not. I hate not knowing what is wrong..... Here is my Carb, should be OEM.

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So I looked around here some and noticed someone was having similar issues and peeps thought it was the CDI. I have a Kitaco rev box on there now and maybe it is going out? The other night when I was riding it, Everything seemed good at high revs, then it progressively started getting worse. It would cut out every now and then... then it got to the point where it wouldn't get any higher in the revs... It is hard to say because my buddy was riding it with his son during this time so I wasn't the only one riding it to observe......Here is the one it came with when I bought it.

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Discussion starter · #36 ·
The carb is def leaking from the o-ring where it meets the intake. Also the seal is bad where the float is. Here is a little clip of how she sounds. Maybe hearing it will help identify it further. Thanks again to everyone who contributed, I appreciate it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
This is what prompted me to start inspecting the carberatuer to see if it was gummed up and making it run this way. Pretty sure when I bought it, it ran better and didn't have problems topping out.


i purchased the 50 about two weeks ago and rode it once or twice before I had any issues.
 
Fix the air leaks.
yup i told you last week mate that O ring will cause a air leak makes sense that at higher rpms the air is sucking in harder and fuel mixture is becoming really lean
a stock 50 motor with a foam air filter shouldnt need re jetting maybe just the needle clip moved
take your carb to a hardware store and you should be able to find an O ring
 
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