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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Ya the pirellis ride amazing in the soft dirt and hard rocky hills, also what would be a good size to bore the cylinder , would 1mm be 90cc. I plan on boring it and getting it decked and a fmf fatty for x mas to me, my cousin got an orion 125 and spanked me with it so I need more power, still want the reliability though. Also any mods for more power like a bigger carb? Thanks guys
 
Looks like a 1981 RM80 may share a lot of motor parts. The head gasket is same, but base gasket is different. So, at the very least you could swap the head, carb and pipe from that bike. Pipe may not fit the rest of the bike though. But the cases look similar enough to swap top ends if the stroke is the same. Anyway, the motor mounts are the same so you could just bolt in a 1981 RM80 motor and it would an entirely different bike. It would be a Screamer.

Compare the bikes here:

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1996/DS80/parts.html

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1981/RM80/parts.html

Also search 1981 RM80 parts on fleabay and look at the pics to see if they look like direct bolt-ons.

Boring the cylinder won't make much of a difference unless it needs it badly. Having the cylinder ported will. Also you can have the head combustion chamber reshaped for higher compression and better squish. Again, I bet an RM80 head would do that for ya anyway. Don't waste too much money trying to make it what it isn't.
 
A bigger carb wouldn't do much good without porting the motor. You could find a porting dementions and use the same carb and jetting of a late 70's early 80's RMmotor and upgrade the pipe but it would cost you in the lower power range.
Hodaka Bob
County Line Cycles Grovertown, IN
Home Page
 
Hodaka Bob is right, maybe I forgot to mention that putting a bigger carb on any motor is a waste of time unless the motor is built to use it. Your motor will lose low end response and gain nothing with a bigger carb. Porting and head work is where the power is.;)
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
So with porting the head should I get it shaved , I was thinking about boring the cylinder 1mm would that do much. I'm not trying to turn it into a full blown racer by any means I just want to beat my cousin in a hill climb race with his 125 pitbike' I have a 35 ft hill with hard dirt and gravel on my land and if we roll start in 2nd I can almost keep up but from a dead stop I can't pull 2nd gear so I get stomped haha and thanks for the help yall
 
Shaving the head will make you use expensive gas to prevent detontion. Boring the cyl 1mm will give you bit more but if you have to get a new piston after that you will need a new cylinder or get you old one resleeved. How is your exhaust port? If you even have even 1mm of carbon build up that will cut your power and make sure your baffle is clean. If the porting is clear and you want to race up a hill try dropping 1 tooth on the countershaft sprocket (like going from 14 tooth to 13).

Hodaka Bob
County Line Cycles Grovertown, IN
www.countylinecyclesin.com
 
Porting a 2 stroke motor is making the ports larger and higher, milling the head is usualy only a 0.001 or so.
Hodaka Bob
County Line Cycles Grovertown, IN.
www.countylinecyclesin.com

Here's a picture of the chamber I designed for my JR50. It's set up for 50% squish band and 13:1 UCCR (un corrected compression ratio which means taking the entire swept volume into account). I ended up taking off about .040" to get this chamber right. The bike runs very strong and hasn't detonated yet with stock timing and regular gas. Most stock trailbike 2 strokes are set up with a low compression ratio around 8:1 or even lower. It makes them run cooler, easier to start and last longer.

Pic of the stock Chamber. Notice the ridge aroung the gasket surface. That provided about .050" (taking the .020" gasket into account) of distance between the piston dome and the head when there should have been less than 1/2 of that for the squish band to do any good.

A cool back yard mod that guys used to do is to eliminate the head gasket and replace it with spray on copper form-a-gasket or a layer of aluminum foil. It should last a season or so before it leaks haha. Just check piston to head clearance.

Any performance upgrades should be saved until after you've determined that the engine is within specs and running correctly. Like Hodaka Bob said, Not clogged up etc. Dropping a tooth on the countershaft sprocket is cheap and effective. Great mod for hillclimbing.
 
It would be sweet to get the easy to ride DS80 motor into a newer RM85 chassis. I thought about that a long time ago. I'd have to ride one again to see if it'd be worth it. It may be better to just bolt RM80 suspension to a DRZ125/200 though. --L*64
 
Maybe for a beginner or a trail rider, but that DS80 motor is so.. (excuse me while I yawn a little bit) ...mellow. I think it would just annoy me unless I did some serious work to it. It is a cool bike as it stands though, just needs to be un-corked.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Agreed but for 100 bucks can't beat it. Really needs more power that's what I'm searchind for that and taller suspension, ended up twisting my ankle and braking my big toe on a big rock in the ground coming around a corner.
 
Yeah, gotta remember to keep your toes up on these little bikes! Hope you're feeling better soon. Toe Breaks are annoying because you can't stay off of it, just hurts all day long as you walk around. I feel your pain!

Take some pictures of the motor for us. Pop the head off and look at the combustion chamber and post a pic, and some pics of the exhaust port and transfer ports. The good news about that motor is that it's so detuned, there's a bunch of things you can do to it for really cheap that will make a big difference. I can help walk you through it.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Ya I'll take some pictures this weekend ,thanks tdub. I also picked up a baja 50, traded for a flux core welder was running then lost spark but at least I already have one running bike so I'm happy.
 
The oil injection NEEDS to work or you will kill the crank! It's suzuki's CCI ( crank cylinder injection ) it has a passage on the back of the pump that goes to the main bearings! Can't remember witch side but it is blocked from gas oil mix so that's why the passage is there, unless a passage has been drilled in to the intake so oil can get to the bering, I hate to see it blow on you, I also hate updating a way old tread, here is mine!

Sent from my ds80x or xr100r using Planet Minis
 

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