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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I talked to tech on the phone and they were very helpful, although I don't know who I spoke to. I would buy the box, but hold off on the converter until you talk to chp on the phone. good luck!
 
I believe those use the crf style wiring/ignition which is why you can use the tokyomods stuff on those. KLX uses an ac current from what I have read and is totally different than the crf's/daytona platforms.
 
So I looked at what I have and I can get you guys a pretty good wiring diagram, but it will be to the Dynatek limiter, instead of the CHP one. I wnet with the dynatek instead because of its adjustment. The CHP had clicks at every 1k rpm (10k, 11k, 12k etc.) The Dynatek has a knob that turns without clicks, enabling you to adjust to say 12.3k or 12.5k. A little more tunable. Its around the same price, and I KNOW it works and how to wire it. The voltage regulator I have takes the AC current from the lighting coil and turns it into DC current which is required by the limiter to run. The limiter has a power wire, a ground wire, a pick up wire that comes from the pick up the stator (to count rotations) and a wire that gos to the kill switch/coil to cut the spark. My limiter thinks my engine is a two stroke, due to our ignitions systems. It didnt work right set up as a 4 stroke. Our ignitions fire every rotation like a 2 banger, but one spark of each rotation is wasted. The voltage regulator will have 4 wires. One power in, one ground, one power out (12v), and one trickle out to charge battery (which is not needed in this case being I dont run a battery).

Same set up, set to limit at lower RPM than previous vid I posted (I have it set higher now, like in the first vid. Miss a shift and it sounds so awesome lol)

 
Yep... Just checked my KLX. Only one wire from pick up, which would still be the same as it probably grounds under coil. Its still the pick up. One wore from either limiter will connect to it... the other to the kill switch, one ground, and one power. As for your converter, one of the 2 other wires coming from engine will be putting out power (which will need to go into converter, then to rev limiter)
 
Thats it!

right which I believe is the dynatek that specialk has. Thanks for the help special k. May get this on order soon :)
Bro, go for it. I promise you wont regret it, and your engine will thank you. Ill be around to help you with installation should you need. I dont care what others have to say about it... when you pull up on the line popping off like a 250f/450... heads will turn, not to mention the fact that your engine will be protected. Might even wanna start riding like Barcia ;)
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Hey man good to see your still around. Man time flies, this was four years ago.
I actually bought the chp box but never got around to installing it on my 110. At the time I owned a regular klx, but now I ride a 110l which has a different ignition with a lower rev limiter built in stock.
I occasionally work on older bikes so maybe I'll get around to it at some point.
 
I called Chp and they told me that the four wires are: 12volt, ground, input, and out put. I also realized that the yellow wire on the bike is actually 12v ac, so I will have to ask chp if it will still work. The other two wires are input and output, what the limiter does is intercepts the signal the cdi box sends to the coil, telling the coil when to discharge and sent the spark to the motor. So when the limiter senses the programmed rpm, it intercepts the signal and prevents the coil from discharging, causing the motor to loose spark. I actually looked on the oem wiring diagram, and the wire that connects between the cdi and coil is a black wire. so depending on weather the limiter will work with 12 volts ac you could very easily install it. worst case would be you would need to put a small 12 volt battery on the bike. And chp said if it ever looses power it just quits limiting the motor, so if you noticed that the rev-limiter stopped working you would just have to change the batterys. but until then the bike would continue to run fine.
Im trying to do this. So the wire to the coil would be interupted? Not piggy backed?
 
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