Best Mods For A 110L?

110wannabe · Sep 19, 2011

sold my ktm450 tonight and that means im buying a klx110l tomorrow or tuesday worst case scenario. ill be buying the following parts,

bbr tall seat

bbr peg mount and pegs

hour meter

stiff front springs

fox float from my old 110

asv levers

is there anything else i should get to make this bike durable? any input is appreciated!

MX 219 · Sep 19, 2011

You gonna buy my bike?

My bike

Anyway, I was told not to get a CDI box/Rev box see the 2011L starting issue thread. Keep the CDI stock! Get a 14 tooth front sprocket to change the gearing, someone on here said it helps, Im gonna try it when I have the money to get chain and sprocket combo. Depending on where you ride you might want to get a different shifter (Ive bent two on my 2010L, stock and an MSR). Also IMMEDIATELY after you get the bike put the tire psi on the back tire to 15, trust me Ive gotten 3 flats on my 2010L before putting it on 15 psi, even with a rim lock I got a flat so make sure the psi is around 15.

110wannabe · Sep 19, 2011

good to know thanks for the info

4thtapped · Sep 20, 2011

got some brand new stiff springs ill sell for $60 shipped

froway · Sep 20, 2011

all that stuff sounds cool but i say put the money towards a pipe instead of levers. ive got a 2011 L with a pct4 and love it. a pipe intake combo really opens the bike up, not to mention makes them sound sick. and definitely get a 14 tooth front sprocket. it makes the bike much easier to ride tight tracks without u feeling like ur goin to blow it up. all my buddies have the non L model and before i changed the front sprocket even with the 4th gear i couldnt hang with them top speed wise. also cradle is a must if u plan on jumping.

110wannabe · Sep 20, 2011

I can't get an aftermarket pipe if I want to race the stock class. I also can't because of my neighbors

solidjohnny · Sep 20, 2011

obviously you forgot to mention a tall bar kit.

put 20wt fork oil.

two brother's carb needle

up the main jet and possibly the pilot jet (yes, even if its stock)

rear rim lock

rear chain guide

folding longer shift lever. Rear brake lever - it seems like you're gonna have clearance problems with the over-the-top style levers. Mine is still stock.

4thtapped · Sep 20, 2011

Yeah you can get a pro circuit with a quiet insert or a bbr with one

MX 219 · Sep 20, 2011

I dont think the quiet insert will help that much...I have two 110L's, one with a PC t-4 the other does not. I have ridden the one with the t-4 around the yard and it doesnt sound over the top loud, but if you might have issues with your neighbors dont even waste the $200 on a pipe + $xyz for the insert.Dont risk it, because once they complain all they have to do is see you ride again and they ll complain again.

built · Sep 21, 2011

lol you will be buying a 450 real soon you will miss that 450

the 14 tooth primary is the cheapest mod maybe a mikuni 26 too my bike is a full mod now but those 2 realy

helped along with renthals

MX 219 · Sep 23, 2011

solidjohnny said:
obviously you forgot to mention a tall bar kit.

put 20wt fork oil.

two brother's carb needle

up the main jet and possibly the pilot jet (yes, even if its stock)

rear rim lock

rear chain guide

folding longer shift lever. Rear brake lever - it seems like you're gonna have clearance problems with the over-the-top style levers. Mine is still stock.

Im not sure a rim lock is needed as long as the psi is 15 or slightly higher. I have a rim lock on my 2010 with 15 psi, but my 2011 I just put the psi up to 15 (after getting a flat and changing the tube) so I'll find out here soon, but right now Im not convinced you need a rim lock. If I ever get another 110L I think the first thing I'll do is get Excel rims and the works with new tires. Kawasaki gives you the cheapest rim, rim strip, a tube. I've gotten 4 flats (3 on the 2010, 1 on 2011) between my two bikes and the rim strips that came with the bikes both broke.Now that my psi is on 15 I have had no problems...even when I had a rim lock and had lower psi I got a flat.

froway · Sep 24, 2011

this might sound to high to some people but i run my tire pressure at 25. ive only gotten one flat on my 110 and that was when i had the tire pressure low. ever since ive had it at 25 ive had no trouble. no rim lock, nothing.

MX 219 said:
Im not sure a rim lock is needed as long as the psi is 15 or slightly higher. I have a rim lock on my 2010 with 15 psi, but my 2011 I just put the psi up to 15 (after getting a flat and changing the tube) so I'll find out here soon, but right now Im not convinced you need a rim lock. If I ever get another 110L I think the first thing I'll do is get Excel rims and the works with new tires. Kawasaki gives you the cheapest rim, rim strip, a tube. I've gotten 4 flats (3 on the 2010, 1 on 2011) between my two bikes and the rim strips that came with the bikes both broke.

MX 219 · Sep 24, 2011

froway said:
this might sound to high to some people but i run my tire pressure at 25. ive only gotten one flat on my 110 and that was when i had the tire pressure low. ever since ive had it at 25 ive had no trouble. no rim lock, nothing.

I've heard people say 15 to 25..I tried 15 and to be honest the back tire is all over the place when Im going wide open and in turns so I decided to keep it at 15 psi...but Ive heard of 25.

joshherrin8 · Sep 25, 2011

The best mods I got for mine was the stiffer springs, BBR Shock, Exhaust, and the BBR Rev Box

4thtapped · Sep 25, 2011

I think locks are only so you don't spin the tire on the rim not to prevent flats I wouldn't get em untill you bore your bike super high I wouldn't think a stock 110 with a 111cc motor would spin the tires on a rim

panic grip designs · Sep 25, 2011

froway said:
also cradle is a must if u plan on jumping.

+1

4thtapped said:
I think locks are only so you don't spin the tire on the rim not to prevent flats I wouldn't get em untill you bore your bike super high I wouldn't think a stock 110 with a 111cc motor would spin the tires on a rim

Rim locks are a must. At the 2-up race yesterday, during practice, I grabbed too much front-brake and ripped my stem out of my tube. It wasn't on a KLX110, but it still caused my dad and I to be in a mad-dash to get the front tube replaced before moto 1.

joshherrin8 · Sep 25, 2011

Good to know. I was told you only needed the Rim Locks if you had a built motor. Thanks for the info

solidjohnny · Sep 27, 2011

No, you def could use rim locks, front and rear....even when stock. Unless you ride hella slow.....

Just install them the next time you get a flat.

MX 219 · Sep 28, 2011

solidjohnny said:
No, you def could use rim locks, front and rear....even when stock. Unless you ride hella slow.....

Just install them the next time you get a flat.

I haven't needed one on either of my front rims yet, and Im hoping I dont need one for my 2011 rear rim now that the psi is around 18. I got 4 flats now (within 8 weeks)without the tire pressure at or above 15 psi between both of my 110s. I have a motion pro rim lock on my 2010 rear rim and 15 psi now and that has worked great so far. Hoping the 18 psi on the 2011 is all I need and dont need a rim lock.

4thtapped · Sep 28, 2011

Wow iv never heard such a thing grabbed to much front brake and ripped the stem out of a tube ....anythings possible but was the nuts on the tube on the right there .... What kinda bike did you do that on? Cc?

Best Mods For A 110L?

110wannabe

MX 219

110wannabe

4thtapped

froway

110wannabe

solidjohnny

4thtapped

MX 219

built

MX 219

froway

MX 219

joshherrin8

4thtapped

panic grip designs

joshherrin8

solidjohnny

MX 219

4thtapped

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