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to dremel or NOT to dremel?

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
the carb is a mikuni vm 26 with a 190 main, 22.5 pilot, 332 O-0 needle jet, 5e75 needle. i had to go to a 200 main now. i didnt really increase the diameter of the carb so much as just smoothed the transitions out. same with the intake elbow. i am just smoothing everything out and matching the diameters to the carb. and my dremel almost caught fire so dont do that i got an air die grinder.but im gonna say that everything is right around 26mms .
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
k minor problem lol. rode it down the street ran great turned around to come back starts popping and sputtering then dies. i just checked the head nut for torque they seem to be fine checked the intake and exhaust all the bolts are tight. anybody have any ideas?
 
#29 ·
warpig0470 said:
k minor problem lol. rode it down the street ran great turned around to come back starts popping and sputtering then dies. i just checked the head nut for torque they seem to be fine checked the intake and exhaust all the bolts are tight. anybody have any ideas?
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Are you sure the bike ran fine at first? IF so, you can rule timing out. (Good job;)) Check gas lol. Does it turn over ok? Popping/sputtering is usually a sign of a fuel or valve issue. Pull your valve cover and make sure everything looks ok (especialy the retainers). You DONT want to kick on this thing with a retainer or valve floating around. If everything looks good in there, move on to the carb. You just did some port work and chances are some little aluminum shavings made their way where they should'nt have. Inspect all of your jets and make sure they are all clear. Let me know what you come up with bro... we'll get it running ;)



You did check fire right?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
yea i got it running again. i checked everything the onlything i found was 2 of the acorn nuts bottomed out i think so i put a washer underneath then and it fired right up. but i was thinking the worst. exactly what you said aluminum shavings but i really blasted it with brake cleaner i took the carb completely apart when i did that. when i did the head i duct taped the cam area off and stuff pieces of sponge down the valve guides.
 
#31 ·
warpig0470 said:
yea i got it running again. i checked everything the onlything i found was 2 of the acorn nuts bottomed out i think so i put a washer underneath then and it fired right up. but i was thinking the worst. exactly what you said aluminum shavings but i really blasted it with brake cleaner i took the carb completely apart when i did that. when i did the head i duct taped the cam area off and stuff pieces of sponge down the valve guides.
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Great ideas bro. Yeah if Im not mistaking there should have been 3 aluminum washers and one copper washer for each of those nuts. I wouldnt put it crazy tight. I dont even have the torque specs on it, I just kinda feel it... I'm sure Terry at Firepower knows. So it runs good? No problems?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
found it. i re used the old gaskets when i swapped the heads. oil was leaking out of the bottom of the cylinder head. so i pulled the head off there was a little bit of oil right by the exhaust valve. but now im debating on weather or not to remover the cylinder and replace the base gasket to. i just looked at the ring stack picture and it looks like a nightmare lol. any help ? anyone?
 
#34 ·
warpig0470 said:
found it. i re used the old gaskets when i swapped the heads. oil was leaking out of the bottom of the cylinder head. so i pulled the head off there was a little bit of oil right by the exhaust valve. but now im debating on weather or not to remover the cylinder and replace the base gasket to. i just looked at the ring stack picture and it looks like a nightmare lol. any help ? anyone?
Click to expand...


Ring stack? You mean on the piston? Its not so bad.... If i remember correctly theres two solid rings....and the jagged oil ring goes in the middle. Theres only 3 right? You've already done all of the hard stuff. The rings are easy! If you didnt remove the cylinder I dont see any reason to replace the gasket unless it is leaking....
 
#35 ·
Hey pig, if you slide the jug up - just enough to expose the pin, you dont need to unseat the ring stack, just remove the clip, pull the pin out and you can remove the jug/slug as a unit to replace the base gasket. Then you don't need to worry about ring seating. I think I read above your motor is fairly fresh, so no need to junk the rings just for a gasket swap...
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
i was looking at a klx manual and its like 1 at 30deg 1 at 60 deg so thats why im wondering about the rings lol . it looks like it could be leaking though. i just got off the phone and my buddy said if you have all the gaskets sitting there quit being such a cheap @ss and replace them all lol
 
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