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warpig0470 said:
should i smooth this lip out ? its running fine right now but my messed up thinking tells me it will run better smoothed. what do you guys think?


DEFINITELY smooth it out bro. Just take you time...flappers work real well for jobs like this. I'd clean it all up...from the intake, through the spacer, to the boot. Heres mine. This was right at 25.5mm and now its a perfect 28mm.....good luck!



Image
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
dam that looks nice. you got some skills. so you say flappers huh? the casting marks are pretty smooth already i was wondering how to get in the angle the sanding drums do do very well in there lol
 
warpig0470 said:
dam that looks nice. you got some skills. so you say flappers huh? the casting marks are pretty smooth already i was wondering how to get in the angle the sanding drums do do very well in there lol


Yup...I used a drum at first....got it out to the size i wanted, then came back with a flapper to smooth it all out. It was actually pretty easy. Just gotta take your time and you'll be fine. ;)
 
+2 not only will it run better, but it's about the cheapest horsepower you will find for your money. Any time spent to smooth out all ducting into and out of the cylinder will make a major difference all across the power band. This includes all gasket mating surfaces, ports and header pipe.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
i just smoothed the intake all out its probably all in my head but it feels a lil faster. now im wondering about pulling the head and matching everything up? seeings how i got nothing to do but wait for dr's calls for the next week
 
warpig0470 said:
i just smoothed the intake all out its probably all in my head but it feels a lil faster. now im wondering about pulling the head and matching everything up? seeings how i got nothing to do but wait for dr's calls for the next week


God bro......I feel your pain :( Im waiting on ACL recontructive surgery in 2 weeks...UGH! I just wanna ride! lol. But your right....its a good time to go through the bike and do all the free mods you can. I'd pull your head once you've matched everything above.....and match it to your intake. Heck...might as well pull the valves and clean up your ports while your at it. You dont have to take a bunch of material off....just smooth it all out. If i can help let me know....im sitting here broke up too ;)
 
warpig0470 said:
here are the after pics. and after looking at your pic again im on my way to depot to look at flappers. yours just looks so much better lol


The flapper I used was pretty big. Just BARELY fit... Id suggest getting a couple different sizes...
 
I have a tool store here in coos bay that sells a bit for my dremal that uses the sand paper rolls that come in a head porting kit lots of diferent sizes and shapes so you can smooth out all of the contours I was able to use some of cone shaped rolls on the litle dremal bit for the polishing wheels the one that has a screw on the tip
 
warpig0470 said:
i want a head porting kit where do they have that? i found a 1/4 horsepower rotery something at harbor freight. my dremel didnt like the flap wheels so much


I bought my kit at oregon tool and supply I think you can get them from jegs or summit they are sold for auto heads I have been looking at that 1/4 horse rotory tool I have killed 4 or 5 harber freight dremels by over working them my real dremel has lasted longer but i try not to over work it
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
well as of now it has a smoother throttle response i had to go to a bigger main jet and it seems to pull harder longer up on top. but if you look at some of the first pics you'll notice that there was almost an 1/8" lip that has since been removed
 
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