PlanetMinis Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
I'm running the 20mm KLX140 carb on my 110 w/the float bowl off of the 110 carb, and the 110 choke cable bracket installed. I have it jetted to the stock 38/80 that the 110 carb is jetted to stock, and I had to slot the air screw to fine tune it. It bolts up just like the stock 110 carb.



Runs a little bit stronger than the stock carb-- but I do have the stock pipe and air box on still. I like the bike to be quiet as it gets ridden on backyard tracks... I use it to get around sometimes at big bike races... etc...



All in all-- I've found that if your 110 is stock, just leave it stock and enjoy it for what it is. IMO-- the best thing you can do to make it faster, is a Tak primary drive gear, 4th gear drum, and manual clutch. A cam, pipe, port job, and 40/85 jetting will take it another step higher w/o sacrificing the quietness and reliability of the stock motor-- which is incredible. Hope this helps. -L*64
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Hey thanks, I'm trying to keep it stock for my kids to ride as well. I am just having trouble adjusting the carb to idle return while riding it,seems to hold on to the high rpm for a few seconds even when you come off the throttle but I cant seem to adjust it out.
 
Is it bone stock, or are you running a pipe? Do you have an... '05 or older 110? I think the '06+ has a nonadjustable air screw. It would have to be taken out and slotted to make it adjustable.



I had that problem on my 110 that had a cam and pipe on it. I was going to go up to 42 (from 40) on the pilot to see if that would help. A high idle generally indicates too much air in the mix. Maybe shim the needle slightly with a small, thin washer from Radio Shack? --L*64
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts