PlanetMinis Forums banner
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
With the chopper front end its going to push in the corners like no tomorrow.



slayer did you just cut the headtube off and tack it back on at a different angle and test fit the front end to see how the rake was? Also what did you use to cut the head tube off with since it will be hard to not cut some off the frame when doing so?
 
USERNAME said:
With the chopper front end its going to push in the corners like no tomorrow.



slayer did you just cut the headtube off and tack it back on at a different angle and test fit the front end to see how the rake was? Also what did you use to cut the head tube off with since it will be hard to not cut some off the frame when doing so?
I cut the head tube off with a radial cutter then index the frame in the mill and use an annular cutter to cope the backbone...usually take 3 degrees out..cleans the rake and trail up a bunch..all the 50/70 aftermarket frames are bad they added length in the backbone and didnt take acct for the backbone going up hill ..that's why the 70's look like the engine is leaning down,because it is..If you notice the last run of billetware 50 frames were corrected ;)
 
slayer66 said:
I cut the head tube off with a radial cutter then index the frame in the mill and use an annular cutter to cope the backbone...usually take 3 degrees out..cleans the rake and trail up a bunch..all the 50/70 aftermarket frames are bad they added length in the backbone and didnt take acct for the backbone going up hill ..that's why the 70's look like the engine is leaning down,because it is..If you notice the last run of billetware 50 frames were corrected ;)


Thanks for the info. I am trying to do this myself and trying to make it a easy way of doing it and making a clean cut since you dont wanna take too much off the frame. I was thinking of cutting most of it and slowly notcing the bottom then heat up what was hold the head tube on barely to push the bottem of the headtube in so it decreases the rake. I would just use the angle tool and when it takes 3 degrees out then its good.



I will have to figure it out I guess. Just dont want to mess up the frame. Was going to have a buddy that owns a stock car shop that builts late model stock car chassis from scratch do it.
 
Don't waist your time trying to mod a mild steel stock 70 frame.

Never heat the frames up to bend them. The SSR frames are 1 in longer and have the correct rake. If you guys have a billetware frame send it to Slayer and he will make it bad ass!!!!!!!



If you want to mod a billetware take 3 to 4 degrease of rake out and leave it the same length.My new favorite set up is cut them back 1" to stock head tube length and take 4 degrease out of the head tube for a 12" bike (and take 5 degrease out for a 10" bike)



He is a quick note

Frames with good rake

SSR

My frames( about 20 where built and 10 sold through reeg)

Reeg aluminum frames

Red baron/SSR frames



Frames with crappy rake

All billetware (five-o, sano, reeg chromoly)Even if they claim they are fixed they are NOT!! Thats why you will never seen pics of any five-o's bikes with the front end straight.They always turn the bars for photos so it's harder to tell.
 
slowracer said:
Don't waist your time trying to mod a mild steel stock 70 frame.

Never heat the frames up to bend them. The SSR frames are 1 in longer and have the correct rake. If you guys have a billetware frame send it to Slayer and he will make it bad ass!!!!!!!



If you want to mod a billetware take 3 to 4 degrease of rake out and leave it the same length.My new favorite set up is cut them back 1" to stock head tube length and take 4 degrease out of the head tube for a 12" bike (and take 5 degrease out for a 10" bike)



He is a quick note

Frames with good rake

SSR

My frames( about 20 where built and 10 sold through reeg)

Reeg aluminum frames

Red baron/SSR frames



Frames with crappy rake

All billetware (five-o, sano, reeg chromoly)Even if they claim they are fixed they are NOT!! Thats why you will never seen pics of any five-o's bikes with the front end straight.They always turn the bars for photos so it's harder to tell.
there it is sports fans...
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Threw a new spring one it and messed with the idle some still idling high..



took for a ride on my track and it pulls purty dang good i must say!



little more carb and shock tuning and it ill be golden.
 
The photos are a starting point? I have to say that bike is so sick already. I love when minis look like full-size bikes.



Your mention of Reeg made me check their site out since I haven't been there in a while and only now am I finding out they're basically out of business, except for selling a limited supply of replacement parts. That's very sad!
 
50-50 said:
The photos are a starting point? I have to say that bike is so sick already. I love when minis look like full-size bikes.



Your mention of Reeg made me check their site out since I haven't been there in a while and only now am I finding out they're basically out of business, except for selling a limited supply of replacement parts. That's very sad!


I did not know they went out of business. I got a whole reeg gp chassis and some of there catalog flyers still I kept. Seems like with the economy and the pitbike crowd hurting it does not help. But thats what happens when you take the fun out of it and start making these big dollar parts only so many can afford them and once that ends you ended up dropping out.
 
21 - 40 of 50 Posts