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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone

So I been working on this bike for almost 2 month now. It was in very bad shape when I got it. I disassembled the engine cleaned all the parts, carb etc checked harness put all new connectors. New spark plug, ignition coil, replaced CDI and stator (replacement stator is also used OEM part bought on ebay), but cant get it to spark. Not even when I pull the spark plug out and place it on engine to check for spark. nothing.
I recently noticed that the flywheel barely moves when I try n kick-start. Sometimes there is no movement at all and once in a while it make about quarter of a turn. is that normal?
Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you remove the clutch basket, replace the clutch plates, or adjust it after the rebuild?
Yes I did remove the clutch basket, replace the clutch plates, and put them ack together the way they were. No "adjustment" as far as I know of....
 

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You might have to make an adjustment on the right side engine cover, the new plates are thicker, the adjuster plate may need to be repositioned.

Also, did you hand tighten the clutch nut, or use an air gun/impact tool?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You might have to make an adjustment on the right side engine cover, the new plates are thicker, the adjuster plate may need to be repositioned.

Also, did you hand tighten the clutch nut, or use an air gun/impact tool?
Its already few weeks back. but I am pretty sure i tightened by hand . So how much should the flywheel spinn when kicking? should it make several spinns with each kick or ...?
 

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The reason there is no spark is because the clutch is slipping. The slipping clutch means the flywheel is not turning. The flywheel must turn to produce spark. The adjustment screw may be pressed against the clutch, making it slip. When you adjust the screw, turn it clockwise first, to make sure it is not already pressed against the clutch, then counter-clockwise to make the adjustment as the manual states. You may also not be kicking it hard enough. A swift, firm kick is needed to get a good start. If none of that works, new clutch plates and springs may be needed.
 

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I copied this bit of instruction from a different thread on a different website. If you have more questions about how to adjust your clutch...ask them. I also believe that IS your problem.

When you adjust your clutch...
Loosen the nut a good full turn, or maybe two, so that's not interfering. Turn the stud righty until it's turning VERY free. Then turn it lefty with a light touch and feel for the first bit of resistance. Then, for good measure, back righty to free, and lefty to feel that resistance a couple more times...just to be sure you're in the right spot. The resistance will be minor, so...light touch.
When you feel the resistance, turn it back righty...just a touch...less than 1/8 turn, hold it with the screwdriver and tighten the jamb nut.
Start the bike and try it.
If it's still grabbing...
Loosen the jamb nut and turn the stud lefty 1/8 turn. Start and try again. Still grabbing...farther lefty...repeat until you like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The reason there is no spark is because the clutch is slipping. The slipping clutch means the flywheel is not turning. The flywheel must turn to produce spark. The adjustment screw may be pressed against the clutch, making it slip. When you adjust the screw, turn it clockwise first, to make sure it is not already pressed against the clutch, then counter-clockwise to make the adjustment as the manual states. You may also not be kicking it hard enough. A swift, firm kick is needed to get a good start. If none of that works, new clutch plates and springs may be needed.
Ok, thanks Will give it a try today.
 

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Looks like the clutch is slipping. Since the adjustment did not help, the clutch needs to be examined again. If you used aftermarket plates on your clutch rebuild, there are some brands that have slightly larger dogs (the tabs that come off the plates and engage with the outer clutch basket.) They can bind if they are too tight, and this can be fixed by sanding the edge of each dog an equal amount on the same side of each dog. They should fit in there easily, being able to drop in without difficulty. The other possibility is that the main springs are too weak and need replacement. Other more remote possibilities are that the gear under the clutch is not fit correctly into the clutch, pushing the clutch basket outward, or the large C-ring that holds the plates in has partially come out. In your video, the way the engine resists and then leaps forward when hand turning the flywheel is normal, caused by the valve springs.
 

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One other point. When pulling the side cover off the engine, once all the screws are removed, the cover should not spring out on its own. If it does, it is either the adjuster or incorrect fitment of the clutch causing it...and just to be sure on the adjustment process, making sure that you are turning the inner screw clockwise to loosen it. Since everyone is saying the adjustment nut, just making sure you know the nut is only for locking down the screw position. You have to also be careful tightening the nut because it can turn the screw, ruining your adjustment. You have to hold the screw in position with a screwdriver while tightening the nut.
 

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Looking at the video...you have some sort of major problem. The clutch may not be assembled correctly, or it's not seated into the primary gear, clutch nut is loose, maybe the spacer is missing from behind the primary gear...my guesses. You didn't have any Xtra parts did you?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Looking at the video...you have some sort of major problem. The clutch may not be assembled correctly, or it's not seated into the primary gear, clutch nut is loose, maybe the spacer is missing from behind the primary gear...my guesses. You didn't have any Xtra parts did you?
No, I don't no extra parts. I followed video from Minimotormanand in deteil on YouTube. I but at the point of assembly I didn't have the service manual. So I'll take another look at the clutch today with the manual...
 
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