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Do you like seeing Davmos Z50 build progress regularly?

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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I wish I had your fabrication abilities.
Thanks, man. I always tell people the same thing: aside from metal shop in high school, no formal training, just learning by trial and error with advice from anywhere I can find it. It may be discouraging at first, but if you keep at it, you will be surprised by how much you can learn by the time you hit my age (if you are curious, my age is the number on this bike.) There is sort of a multiplying effect as you learn more skills, where something you learned elsewhere will apply to a new skill, and make it where you pick it up quicker. Start small, but always challenge yourself to get out of your comfort zone a little and learn something new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Hope your surviving the storm..... Good luck to you all
Storm? was there a storm? Haha. We are starting to thaw out a little today, but a few more days till it is consistently above freezing. Thanks for the well wishes. Some more mods on the bike, I will add more details on the changes later.
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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Some of the recent mods aside from the obvious paint. A cradle mount was made for the engine. The cross tubes are fairly thin walled, so it is lighter than it looks. It was extended a little past the mounting holes to act as a bash plate, and make a place for a possible future belly pan to hook onto.
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One of the tubes on the cradle has been drilled out to make a mounting point for a track stand and a removable kickstand mount. The kickstand mount is barely visible in the last post. The swing arm was also worked on, with some unused tabs stripped off, new bushings, and the rear brake post welded in.
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If you do a cradle mount, either the cradle or the left engine mount need to be removable to get the engine in and out of the frame without removing the clutch cover. This grunge-pot of an engine is a mock-up one made of all crap parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
More details.
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Kind of hard to see, but two small pieces of metal were added to the right foot peg base, and on the brake pedal. They are made to make the brake pedal go down enough for the kickstart to miss hitting it.. It works when the peg is completely folded.

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This is the removable kickstand mount. It is held in place by a single bolt, and comes off in seconds.
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With the kick stand installed, the mounting bolt can be seen just forward of the mount. A Takegawa forged aluminum stand was used.

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Got some neoprene foam for the seat pad. there will probably be a snap-on cover that goes over it. The backside of all the body parts and inner fender were painted black, as well as the panel on the rear cover.

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Loving the restoration pics! Thanks for the ongoing detailed pics and descriptions! Very helpful, not to mention impressive. Two questions. Do you polish engine cases or paint them? if you polish, do you clear coat? Also, any close up pics of the kickstand on a K3? Mine is different from what’s in the parts listing and I think it may be a replacement part that someone put on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Loving the restoration pics! Thanks for the ongoing detailed pics and descriptions! Very helpful, not to mention impressive. Two questions. Do you polish engine cases or paint them? if you polish, do you clear coat? Also, any close up pics of the kickstand on a K3? Mine is different from what’s in the parts listing and I think it may be a replacement part that someone put on.
Thanks, man! Honda cloud silver paint on the side covers, the engine cases are left bare, cleaned with fine (white) Scotch-brite pads and oil. The cam cover, valve inspection caps, and the puck over the magneto are polished. Below are a K4 and K5 with original stands which as far as I can tell are the same as a K3. Below that are some restoration pics of three stands being re-attached using some new pins. The 1972-78 Z50 footpeg assemblies have a unique feature that makes them easy to tell apart.
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Th unique feature on the early soft tail footpeg assemblies was the way the upper spring post is welded to the assembly. The plate it is welded to is the same plate the side stand attaches to, with the edges bent so the post can be welded to the edges. The side stand pivot is a button-type that is welded in from the back side. On these two mounts, the weld has been ground flush with the back of the mount, and the pivot posts have been knocked out. The top of the button on these is intentionally a little thicker than the stock ones, which are sometimes bent, if not broken off completely. The stands getting ready to be attached are some I made, lengthened for the yellow 76 and blue 73 models above, which have extended swingarms and taller than stock tires. They are not exact reproductions, but are close (the originals were a little bit crude, with the tapers on the top and foot of the stand smashed in.)
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In this picture, the top stand was an aftermarket one that did not end up getting used, the middle stand is the stock one with a new pivot pin, and the lower one is one I made.
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Thanks, man! Honda cloud silver paint on the side covers, the engine cases are left bare, cleaned with fine (white) Scotch-brite pads and oil. The cam cover, valve inspection caps, and the puck over the magneto are polished. Below are a K4 and K5 with original stands which as far as I can tell are the same as a K3. Below that are some restoration pics of three stands being re-attached using some new pins. The 1972-78 Z50 footpeg assemblies have a unique feature that makes them easy to tell apart. View attachment 275008 View attachment 275005
Th unique feature on the early soft tail footpeg assemblies was the way the upper spring post is welded to the assembly. The plate it is welded to is the same plate the side stand attaches to, with the edges bent so the post can be welded to the edges. The side stand pivot is a button-type that is welded in from the back side. On these two mounts, the weld has been ground flush with the back of the mount, and the pivot posts have been knocked out. The top of the button on these is intentionally a little thicker than the stock ones, which are sometimes bent, if not broken off completely. The stands getting ready to be attached are some I made, lengthened for the yellow 76 and blue 73 models above, which have extended swingarms and taller than stock tires. They are not exact reproductions, but are close (the originals were a little bit crude, with the tapers on the top and foot of the stand smashed in.) View attachment 275006 View attachment 275007 View attachment 275009
In this picture, the top stand was an aftermarket one that did not end up getting used, the middle stand is the stock one with a new pivot pin, and the lower one is one I made.
Thanks, that’s very helpful! My side stands worn a bit, with the hole gone a bit egg shaped. It was in there with a bolt instead of the pin. I think with a bit of repair, it will be ok though.
 

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I was also going to ask where you sourced the 305mm Takegawa shocks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
I was also going to ask where you sourced the 305mm Takegawa shocks?
Fast 50's was the only place I could find them in them outside of Japan. Even though I ordered chrome, they called back and said they only had red springs, so I said yes, stripped the red and had them chrome plated. That was six months ago, so maybe they got some more in.
 

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One part that I have been searching for is the chrome chain guards. HondaNuts keeps pushing the date out and they seem to be the only ones with hope of getting them in
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
One part that I have been searching for is the chrome chain guards. HondaNuts keeps pushing the date out and they seem to be the only ones with hope of getting them in
I got a couple reproduction painted ones from HondaTB and had them chrome plated. Seems like everyone has been out of them for a while.
 

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Thanks, man! Honda cloud silver paint on the side covers, the engine cases are left bare, cleaned with fine (white) Scotch-brite pads and oil. The cam cover, valve inspection caps, and the puck over the magneto are polished. Below are a K4 and K5 with original stands which as far as I can tell are the same as a K3. Below that are some restoration pics of three stands being re-attached using some new pins. The 1972-78 Z50 footpeg assemblies have a unique feature that makes them easy to tell apart. View attachment 275008 View attachment 275005
Th unique feature on the early soft tail footpeg assemblies was the way the upper spring post is welded to the assembly. The plate it is welded to is the same plate the side stand attaches to, with the edges bent so the post can be welded to the edges. The side stand pivot is a button-type that is welded in from the back side. On these two mounts, the weld has been ground flush with the back of the mount, and the pivot posts have been knocked out. The top of the button on these is intentionally a little thicker than the stock ones, which are sometimes bent, if not broken off completely. The stands getting ready to be attached are some I made, lengthened for the yellow 76 and blue 73 models above, which have extended swingarms and taller than stock tires. They are not exact reproductions, but are close (the originals were a little bit crude, with the tapers on the top and foot of the stand smashed in.) View attachment 275006 View attachment 275007 View attachment 275009
In this picture, the top stand was an aftermarket one that did not end up getting used, the middle stand is the stock one with a new pivot pin, and the lower one is one I made.
Where did you source the pivot pins? I can't find them on my usual parts source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Ah! I might have a hard time doing that on my wood lathe :)
Before I had a lathe, I would take a grade 2 carriage bolt and chuck it up in the drill press, turn at low speed and shape with a file. Surprising how quickly it can be done. Just find a bolt around the same diameter (off the top of my head, want to say an 8mm is the right size,) and shape it with the file, then cut it so there is about 1/8" sticking past the back of the mount, and weld in place. When you weld it in, the side stand should be held in place firmly by the pin, but be careful not to make it too tight. I made the mistake of using a clamp to hold the pin in place firmly, and when the metal contracted after it cooled down, the stand was crazy tight to the point it had to be re-done.
 
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