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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am mounting my douglas billet rear wheel onto my 50.



I adjust the chain so it has right amount of slack, align the chain and make sure the adjusters are even on the swingarm notches.



WHENEVER I tighten the rear all the way down or even snug the rear wheel will not spin freely. I even gave the chain more slack, and adjusted the rear brake rod, even disconnected it and still I cnnot get it to spin freely. But then when I loosen the axle bolt up, it spins freely. I just do not understand. Is it a bad drum brake? It can't be the douglas wheel? I am soaked in sweat, pissed off, and just straight baffled.



Any help is VERY MUCH appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah but it was TIGHT when I changed wheels. SO your axle is loose? I think you are supposed to tighten it all the way down, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I do not understand. If its loose it spins freely. As soon as it gets even a little tight it has a lot of resistance. I even disconnected the whole rear brake from the drum and still it has a lot of resistance if I tighten it down.
 

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i remember having the same problem with a stock setup... all spacers and washers where in the right place....ended up taking it back apart and adding white grease to all the spacers and a bit of jig-a-loo here and there. once back together i tightened it fairly and it was fine!



i should be recieving my douglas rim in the mail soon and ill get back to you if i have the same problem
 

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dont know how to explain it, but have seen a similar condition when the brake rod was disconnected from the brake drum. it sounds weird but try going ahead and adjust you brake correctly and see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
went out and messed with it again tonight. I cannot figure out why it has resistance. Should I try greasing up the inside of the hub and the brake shoes? Wouldn't that ruin the stopping power? Whatever is going on is not allowing the rear wheel to spin freely and it has something to do with the brake drum.
 

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if you think its the drums, take the pads out, thats easier than greasing the pads, because then youll need to replace the pads..... you see where im going with this?



and take the spacers and the wheel out and make sure the spacers sit in with the hub nicely.



i tighten the crap out of all my axles on minibikes, i dont believe its safe to have them not really tight, even with locktite(R)
 

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yea grease up your brake pads with the best grease you got!





No dont do that!!!!! spin the wheel while tightening it and se if you can feel and friction start and see if you can pin point it (ie. sound). Maybe there is something messed up with the way it was machined and the outer part orf the hub that meets with the brake ... uhh dont know what to call it, the aluminum chuck that has the little rotating rod thing that opens the brake pad. See if they touch... if not then maybe there is no spacer between the bearings in the hub and its binding them up....
 

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make sure you dont have a bad bearing i had this happen to me and come to find out i had a tire put on my klx and one of the bearings fell out and i didnt notice it and when i put the wheel on it ot wouldent roll
 

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What is going on here is the spacers bearings etc are not right. Usually when you tighten it the load all goes on the center or outside of the bearing but if it doesnt and somehting is binding against the wrong spot on the bearings this is the condition you will experience. When it is correct you can torque your axle to hell and it will have zero binding or resistance.
 

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RcWannabe said:
What is going on here is the spacers bearings etc are not right. Usually when you tighten it the load all goes on the center or outside of the bearing but if it doesnt and somehting is binding against the wrong spot on the bearings this is the condition you will experience. When it is correct you can torque your axle to hell and it will have zero binding or resistance.


Exactly. Are the spacers by chance contacting the rotating part of the bearing surfaces? If the spacers are new/different than you'd been using before the switchout, they might not just be hitting the inner part/non rotating part of the bearing that the axle slides through, but the rotational parts of the bearings.
 

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the only thing i can think of. is if there is no spacer between the 2 beerings in the hub. so that when you thighten the axel it presses the beering sideways causing it to have that resistance. so check if you have the spacer between the 2 beerings.
 
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