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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
It doesn't make sense to me...the bearing SHOULD fit the race. Is the bearing bottoming out into the race?? Or is it just hung up on the steering stem? Maybe it can be driven down with a hammer and socket, or punch, etc.
The bearing does fit the race nicely, if it can get down there. It’s stopping on the land of the stem, so bottoming out on the stem before it reaches the race. I think because i need another spacer on the bottom. i suspect the bearings weren’t spec’d out properly.
 

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The bearing does fit the race nicely, if it can get down there. It’s stopping on the land of the stem, so bottoming out on the stem before it reaches the race. I think because i need another spacer on the bottom. i suspect the bearings weren’t spec’d out properly.
I'd make sure it isn't just tight on the stem. There is room for a 1inch thick bearing below the threads, before that bearing hits the shoulder.
IMG_20210426_091852086.jpg
 

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Wait...I just realized that the stem I measured is from a CT70. The z must be different. I don't have one here to reference.
 

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The bearing does fit the race nicely, if it can get down there. It’s stopping on the land of the stem, so bottoming out on the stem before it reaches the race. I think because i need another spacer on the bottom. i suspect the bearings weren’t spec’d out properly.
Do the bearing have different inner diameters? the stackup on the lower seems right, your issue is at the top...
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Do the bearing have different inner diameters? the stackup on the lower seems right, your issue is at the top...
Yes, they have different ID’s. the bottom one only fits on the bottom. The top one won’t go past the shoulder on the stem, which is happening. Unfortunately, the kit doesn’t account for the difference in height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So, here’s what I’m up against. The shoulder for the lower bearing is about 14 mm.
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the original bearing race is 8.5 mm thick, and the original spacer is 3mm thick, so it all fits nicely on that 14 mm shoulder. But the new tapered bearings I have don’t give me the correct spacing to all the top bearing to contact the race before it just the shoulder on the stem.
So, I have to space the lower bearing up higher than 3mm. Probably need another 3. But that means that 6mm of the shoulder is taken up by spacers, leaving 8mm to hold a bearing that has a race that’s 12mm high. Shouldn’t be a problem having 4 mm basically unsupported, as it’s just the steering head. So now I have to get another spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Update time. Been plugging away on this a bit at a time. It's a great pandemic project. I solved the steering head bearing issue. I added a spacer on the bottom end. That brought everything up so that the nut didn't run out of thread before contacting the bearing. Steering head is adjusted properly now.
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Put the new 88cc piston jug and head on. Had to modify the right side cover as the CHP kit didn't come with a new one.
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One minor issue. I notice that with the timing mark on "T" that the cam timing mark doesn't quite line up. It's like half a tooth out. I took everything apart, removed the flywheel again to check to be sure I didn't do anything wrong. But nope, that's the way it is. I tried with the old cam gear, and same thing. Not really sure why, and I'm worried that the timing may be off by a degree or two.
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But, now with the engine in place, we have a rolling chassis! The tank is just sitting there so we could sort out the carb situation.

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
But, here's my big question. Maybe someone else has put a CHP 88cc kit on and run into the same issues. As you can see, with the carb in place, the float drain is just barely above the cylinder. I'm a bit worried that the hose will melt on there.
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Also, see where the petcock is. It's so close to everything that the air filter will definitely interfere. This is all CHP parts, including the air filter. I'm not sure what the answer is going to be here. May have to extend the air filter a bit. Anyone run into this?

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And, if that wasn't enough trouble, there is no way that the throttle cable is going to fit on here. I'm not sure of the answer to this one. On CHP's website, the kit shows a 90 degree piece on top for the cable. But, this one came without that. Anyone run into this?

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Bike looks great, very cool how you took on a different style with the paint choice. As for the timing that looks normal. I am sorry can’t help on the carb.
 

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You might want to try loosening the two manifold bolts slightly and cocking the carb a bit to help clear the frame. UNI makes a pod filter (UP-4152AST 1-1/2" opening) with a 15° angled boot, to possibly give you a little more clearance with the petcock. You should be alright using the straight throttle cable going into the carb cap boot, it will lie alongside the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Bike looks great, very cool how you took on a different style with the paint choice. As for the timing that looks normal. I am sorry can’t help on the carb.
Thanks. The timing may well be fine. I'll know soon enough, I guess! The paint job is a Nicky Hayden tribute. We have a Hayden decal for the side cover, as well as a signature decal on the top of the tank. Very happy with the way it's turned out, given that it is a rattle can job!
 

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Usually a new timing chain puts the marks pretty close, a stretched chain puts them further off. But they never seem to hit dead on.
 

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Weird thing about these timing chains: the roller size is slightly different on some new chains, causing this problem. A new DID brand chain on one of the 6 volt engines will usually do this. What you need is either an old chain or one of the inexpensive Chinese chains you can find on fleabay. The engine will run like this, but cam timing will be off. Not a big deal putting around the neighborhood, but makes a difference if you are wanting to get the best max performance from your engine.
 

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Hey, Carb issue...
I ran into the same thing. Tried different intakes, spacers, pushing things one way, the fuel valve I see you have. I hated all of them. What I ended up doing was cutting the intake where it bolts to the head, clocking it to a point where the carb (should have been) so it clears the OEM fuel valve and the throttle cable clears the frame. No elbow on the throttle cable for me. See pics and reach out if you want more info. And for the bowl drain, it will be tight, but make sure you still retain the capability of being able to drain the bowl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Hey, Carb issue...
I ran into the same thing. Tried different intakes, spacers, pushing things one way, the fuel valve I see you have. I hated all of them. What I ended up doing was cutting the intake where it bolts to the head, clocking it to a point where the carb (should have been) so it clears the OEM fuel valve and the throttle cable clears the frame. No elbow on the throttle cable for me. See pics and reach out if you want more info. And for the bowl drain, it will be tight, but make sure you still retain the capability of being able to drain the bowl.
I may have to resort to that. I did buy a petcock with the 90 degree outlet, but it’s still blocked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hey, Carb issue...
I ran into the same thing. Tried different intakes, spacers, pushing things one way, the fuel valve I see you have. I hated all of them. What I ended up doing was cutting the intake where it bolts to the head, clocking it to a point where the carb (should have been) so it clears the OEM fuel valve and the throttle cable clears the frame. No elbow on the throttle cable for me. See pics and reach out if you want more info. And for the bowl drain, it will be tight, but make sure you still retain the capability of being able to drain the bowl.
What did you do for the air filter? Looks like you have a 45 elbow on there?
 
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