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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Also had the hole for the swingarm bolt in the frame repaired. I'll post a pic once the primer is dry.
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
All of the parts are primed now, and the swing arm and chain guard pained with black base coat.
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Worked on the tank. As i've never done paint or body work before, it's a new experience. The guy at the paint shop recommended this big "eraser" for the decal. I had figured that I'd be hours getting the decal off, with stripper and sanding. It actually took less than 10 minutes to remove the decals and the paint underneath was unmarred.
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My parts list is complete. Now I have to order parts (and figure out how to get them across the border to me) and get working on the rest of the prep and paint. I guess I'm going to learn about body filler too.
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Cleaned the bottom of the gas tank. Minimal rust and no pin holes. No areas that need repair. Then, I'll have to get to the more tedious bits on the top!
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The side cover had a hole in it, where something had hit against it in the garage. Fortunately, I had the broken piece. I managed a repair. It will need some filler, but I think it will be OK.
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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Work continues slowly. Working on the paint, because it's going to be a while before parts get here. I did find a pinhole in the tank and was able to repair it with solder. Pressure tested and it's now leak free. The whole tank has been sanded. Needs body filler and primer now. Built a turntable of sorts to use once we get to painting the tank.
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Pinhole in the tank seam.
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Pinhole repaired with solder. No other holes showed up after sanding and pressure testing, so should be OK.
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Tanks is pretty much completely sanded. Body filler is needed in a couple of spots. You can see the dent in the front here. A few others on the left side of the tank too.
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The patented Williams Brothers Racing fuel tank paint turntable.
 

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Parts availability and shipping has been an issue on my build as well. Several items are out of stock and the USPS has taken a few weeks to deliver several items.
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Parts availability and shipping has been an issue on my build as well. Several items are out of stock and the USPS has taken a few weeks to deliver several items.
Yes, I’m expecting delays, unfortunately. Plus, I have to get it across the border to Canada.
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
It's been a while, sorry. Lots of painting to do, and the parts just came in across the border today!
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The seat cleaned up nicely. No tears or significant damage, so just cleaned it.

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A little body filler on the tank.

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Base coat of white on the tank.

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Then masked off the star and painted the tank with the base coat of metallic blue.

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Masked off for the red stripe on the outside border of the star.

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And the tank is ready for clear coat.
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
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Painted the rims.

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Painted and clear coat on the engine cover.

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And, clear coat on the frame and fork tubes.
Now that the parts are in, I can get started on putting things together. That should give the paint lots of time to cure before we start handling everything. I'll do an update once we get going on the engine, etc.
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
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And, at last, the tank has clear coat. All the parts have arrived, next steps are to start putting this all together!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Got a lot done today, but ran into a few snags. I was installing the bushing on the forks that fits on the top of the fork rod (where the spring fits on with the roll pin). This is a part not normally used on this bike, but is from later models. Helps to keep the fork rod stable in the tube. I had to drill out the collar, as it was not drilled on centre. It just wouldn't line up. Kind of frustrating, but I did get it in place securely eventually.

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Eventually got the bushing collar sorted out and got the fork tubes assembled.

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Then came the second snag. I'm replacing the ball bearings with tapered roller bearings. Unfortunately, there is obviously a size difference. The bottom bearing is seated nicely in the race. I used the original spacer underneath the bottom bearing and the dust seal is in place. But, when I tighten the nut, the top bearing hits the stop on the stem before it seats in the race (the nut is on upside down just to illustrate the problem). I'm thinking that I need another spacer under the bottom bearing, which means I have to take it all apart again. Anyone run into this?

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Moving on though, got the swing arm, shocks and rear tire in place. Next I'll sort out this steering stem bearing issue and get the front end on.

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You can see the concept drawings on the wall behind the bike :) Lots of thought went in to the design!
 

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Hey, we reused the stock bottom spacer when we did the tapered roller kit on our 72 Z50. Can you snap a pic of your stackup?
Does your top bearing really stick up that much?
 

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1972 Honda Z50A, 1976 Honda 90, 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2012 Triumph Bonneville
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hey, we reused the stock bottom spacer when we did the tapered roller kit on our 72 Z50. Can you snap a pic of your stackup?
Does your top bearing really stick up that much?
I reused the stock spacer as well. I've attached a pic of the lower end. The black line shows the spacer. The seal is above that. I think I need one more spacer.
The bearing does stick up that far. That pic was with the nut tightened down (nut was upside down so that you can see the bearing).

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It doesn't make sense to me...the bearing SHOULD fit the race. Is the bearing bottoming out into the race?? Or is it just hung up on the steering stem? Maybe it can be driven down with a hammer and socket, or punch, etc.
 
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