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ive read that a small torch is the only way to go to get those rusted wheels off. get the wheel very hot but not glowing red hot, with plyers pull wheel half out of tire.refer to some of the minitrail resto websites for further info
 

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Mine were rusted on the Z50 too. What a biatch it was getting them off! I used a hammer and a big punch... hammering inch by inch around the bead. They came off eventually.
 

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Racerx336 said:
What the hell do I need to soak the wheels in to get these old tires off of them???


will the wheels split, and the tires are just stuck on the rims? if so, i usually have to use a big c-clamp after soaking. however, thats only on a 10 year old z50. if its way older, good luck, haha.
 

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like everyone said use a torch and don't forget the gloves

what i did was sprayed them with plenty of wd40 and let them soak over night



are they worth saving? cause if you're going to upgrade later might as well do it now and save your time.
 

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Andrew,



Do you own a vice? The tires are rusted to the wheels. Take the tire and put it into a vice as close as you can to the rim and squeeze the sidewalls together and it usually breaks them free. You have to go around the tire and do this, but it works.



Or you can use 10 cans of PB blaster, or torch them. Oh, the good old days of restoring a CT that has been abused for years and years...
 

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This is the ticket

Z said:
Andrew,



Do you own a vice? The tires are rusted to the wheels. Take the tire and put it into a vice as close as you can to the rim and squeeze the sidewalls together and it usually breaks them free. You have to go around the tire and do this, but it works.



Or you can use 10 cans of PB blaster, or torch them. Oh, the good old days of restoring a CT that has been abused for years and years...


I've tried every way possible and this is the best way to do it IMO. Take those wheels and pop them in a big vice...if you don't have a vice that big, go get one from Sears or Home Depot. It will set you back about $60 but it is well worth it.



I do this in combination actually. First, I take the tube out from the center. Then I break the bead in the vice and squirt wd40 in there really good all the way around. Then I let them sit over night.



Next day, I'll hit them again with the wd40 and put them back in the vice and break out my big heavy flathead screwdrivers. Sometimes I have to heat up the rim a little too...just depends on how bad a shape the halves are.



Here's some advice to keep you from having to do it ever again:

1. Powdercoat the rims (at least on the inside)

2. Apply silver anti seize on the inside of the bead on installation

3. MOST IMPORTANT! When assembling the rims, put a bead of silicon between the rim halves. Be generous. If you prevent water from getting in there in the first place, you wouldn't have the issue of rusty wheels.
 

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slickz50r said:
" I'm gonna get me a couple of hard hitting *#@@$%&

with a pair of pliers and a blow torch"

Pulp Fiction


What now? Let me tell you what now. I'm gonna call a couple of hard-pipe-hittin' naggas to go to work on the homes here with a pair of pliers and a blow torch. You hear me talking hillbilly boy? I aint through wit chu by a damn sight. I'm gonna get medieval on your ass!
 

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3. MOST IMPORTANT! When assembling the rims, put a bead of silicon between the rim halves. Be generous. If you prevent water from getting in there in the first place, you wouldn't have the issue of rusty wheels.
Why the hell didn't I think of that? Good idea. I did primer and then apply some grease to the halves, but silicone is going on instead next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't own a torch, so I just broke the bead down as much as I could by stepping on it, then poured gas in the space between the rim and the bead and threw a match at it. I let it sit for about a minute or two then blew it out. That seperated the tire from the wheel halves pretty good. Plus the explosion was cool, haha.
 

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gasket eliminator is better than silicon just a small circled lacet...



could go to local tire car dealer... he could pass the tire on the tire machine just to remove the lip tire from the side of the rim...



vice, arm juice, big screw driver, tire puller bar, and "magic" stuff from Briggs & Stratton called CHOKE CLEANER kind of stuff to go soft the rubber but be very carfull for paint!
 

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I just soaked mine with CRC (WD40) and gave it a bash everynow and now and keep putting more CRC on and let it sit... and gave it more CRC then it come free. after some swearing and pushing and pulling it come off with he tire irons.
 

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fatcaaat said:
I've tried every way possible and this is the best way to do it IMO. Take those wheels and pop them in a big vice...if you don't have a vice that big, go get one from Sears or Home Depot. It will set you back about $60 but it is well worth it.



I do this in combination actually. First, I take the tube out from the center. Then I break the bead in the vice and squirt wd40 in there really good all the way around. Then I let them sit over night.



Next day, I'll hit them again with the wd40 and put them back in the vice and break out my big heavy flathead screwdrivers. Sometimes I have to heat up the rim a little too...just depends on how bad a shape the halves are.



Here's some advice to keep you from having to do it ever again:

1. Powdercoat the rims (at least on the inside)

2. Apply silver anti seize on the inside of the bead on installation

3. MOST IMPORTANT! When assembling the rims, put a bead of silicon between the rim halves. Be generous. If you prevent water from getting in there in the first place, you wouldn't have the issue of rusty wheels.


This is what I do, get plenty of WD40 in there and use the vice and big flat screwdrivers. I've just pulled the original trail wings off a set of k1 QA rims as well as the originals off a set of k2 Z50 rims doing this...
 
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