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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Picture attached (taken from the front of the bike) Waiting on a reply from TB parts but i figured I'd jump on here and get some opinions or see if anyone else has seen this. Im currently installing a TB 143 kit on a 2022 KLX 110 RL. The "IN" that would typically be printed on the intake side is printed as "NI". that is making me think it was mislabeled or printed on the wrong side, because if I put the "NI" at the top like it should be, it reads backwards but if i were to turn it to the bottom (the exhaust side) then it would read in the right direction. I dont want to install it backwards, hoping someone can help me make sense of this, either that or tell me that they agree with my assesment 馃榿
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Piston is installed correctly. That 143 piston I refer to as the bisexual 143cc piston due to its ability to work with so many different klx heads. Being it was designed to work with so many different heads the valve pockets look very odd. Your question is a very common question asked. Tb probably gets that question asked once a week if not more. I have done some write ups on some of the fb pages on the matter. The pockets are so grotesquely generous that it doesn't matter if IN is on intake side or exhaust side you still have plenty of depth and radial clearance with valves. I have do NOT recommend flipping it so the IN is on exhaust side. Wrist pin does have about an 0.030" offset. And flipping the IN to the exhaust side would put the offset on the wrong side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info @storminnorman07 Got her all back together, made sure the mark on the cam sprocket was lined up with the mark on the head (both at 9:00). Same with the flywheel, the T line is at 9:00 with the mark on the case. She wont fire. When trying to start, its coughing air out of the intake, rather than sucking air through the intake. I have the kit with the 26mm mikuni carb. Stock head.

Any suggestions are extremely appreciated! Wont be able to work on it again till the weekend.
 

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When you lined up everything did you make sure the cam chain was loaded (tensioner removed and pushing in on chain guide with finger to take up slack)? If not, you will be off by 1 or 2 teeth and your timing will cause what you are describing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When you lined up everything did you make sure the cam chain was loaded (tensioner removed and pushing in on chain guide with finger to take up slack)? If not, you will be off by 1 or 2 teeth and your timing will cause what you are describing.
Wow, no i did not think of that.. the tensioner was removed, set the timing, reinstalled the tensioner and went from there. So you're saying that I need to set the timing while applying tension to the timing chain with my finger? That's crazy because I didn't see people do that in any of the countless videos I watched on KLX110 big bore installs. I will have to give that a try this weekend I really appreciate the advice!
 

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Like cycletech mentioned the chain has slack in it. If not careful you can get timing on point but then when tensioner is in place timing be off. I have attached some pics for visual reference.

The first picture the yellow line would be the center line of cam to crank. If timing mark on cam gear is above the centerline cam timing is retarded and vice versa if timing mark on cam gear is below yellow line cam timing is advanced. The timing mark on cam gear often times doesn't perfectly line up with the witness mark on head. If this should be the case on your engine you want it to favor the side of retard and not advanced.

Hopefully to make it a little clearer ill use the following pictures. The 2nd picture timing is in time using the scale for center line reference. The 3rd picture I put timing 1 tooth retarded. And 4th picture timing is 1 tooth advanced. After getting it in time as cycletech mentioned stick a finger in the tensioner hole and apply pressure on the tensioner. Get eye level with cam and look st the cam gear timing mark in reference to the mark on the head. If cam gear timing line perfectly aligns with head mark or slightly above (in reference to pictures) you're good. But if you are see the cam gear timing line a good bit away like pictures 3 and 4 you are 1 tooth out of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
V2 head solved the issue. Stock head just didnt like it i guess. Might have damaged a valve or something. Installed the v2 head with the TBW0645 cam sprocket (for 2010 and up models) fired right up. Running good, nice power. fmf 4.1 on the way should open it up a little more compared to the stock pipe. The newer klx 110's have those decompression weights on the cam gear and that may have been complicating things, no clue honestly but we're all set now. Thanks everyone
 
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