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There are c clips on the clutch side of the motor, make sure they are removed along with anything else that may get in the way on the clutch side. you may just need to lightly pound on the crank.... but try to avoid that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm trying to take the ignition side off. I took all of the obvious bolts out, one under a rubber cap, and a nut off a stud with a flathead screw head on it. Its pulling apart about a quarter of an inch and not going much further. I tried pounding on the crank with a rubber mallet also, to no avail. More ideas? The ignition side case is cracked and i'm going to try to pull it off and fix it before I buy a new one. This is off my 1984 Z50 project bike by the way. There is no way I would take my XR motor apart.
 

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If you are pulling the ignition side off, it may be hanging up on the countershaft. Spray liberally with WD40, and tap on the countershaft with a brass mallet. Don't be afraid to give it a good rap. As long as you have all the bolts out, the only other thing it can hang on is a main bearing. On a bike of that vintage, that's entirely possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The crack has nothing to do with the case not coming off. Its in one of the corners. It seems to be the counter shaft and the main bearing working together to keep it in place. Is there any way the a JB weld type product would fix the broken piece? I will try to get some pictures up. If its gonna cost a lot of money, the motor is going on ebay in pieces.
 

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its easiest to spilt when you put the ignition side down, then pull the clutch-side case off (up). pretty much all of the internal engine components stay nestled in the ignition-side case, so it will all be removed after lifting the clutch-side off.
 

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That bolt under the rubber cap holds on the shift drum. Leave that on there and remove the other side of the case. This will keep the tranny in place while you're splitting the case halves. Also, u need to b sure u removed the stator plate (2 phillips head screws) using the correct sized bit #3 and an impact driver to remove. Once u get this far, be sure to remove the timing chain from the crank and place it in a ziplock bag. You have to remove the chain to get that side off. Keep the trans assembly as intact as possible. I use a couple zip ties on the ends of the trans shafts to keep the gears in place before removal. Then you should be able to lift the crank right out of the case half and do your repairs. JB weld will not hold much on those cases. Take the cases to a reputable welder and have the repair done correctly. They will need to weld with both case halves bolted together so 1 doesn't warp, then you'll have a sealing problem.



Hope this helps!
 

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you need to remove the cam sprocket like MxTRX450Rider said but I assumed you already had the head and cylinder off at this point. If you do, cool but if not follow along. Once the cam sprocket is out then there is another 10mm bold in the same side as the cam chain but in the cylinder. Pull out the bolt there and a rubber wheel inside can be removed. This will allow you to put just about all of the timing chain into the crankcase. Once you get to this point and have that timing cover off, you'll see that the chain just slips off the crank sprocket at a slight angle. You're home free from there. Has anyone priced a new set of honda cases lately?? The welding would be cheaper depending on what sort of damage has occured. 99.9% of the time, it's the upper mount that cracks. This is not a cheap fix and would be worth case replacement but just about anything else is worthwhile as far as chips and cracks go. This is why the cradle sub frames are so much worth it if you're going to jump the bike. The cost of it is about equal to a case half and will put the peg mount stress on itself instead of that upper engine mount.
 
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new cases are something like 160 for one side and 188 for the other. Can't remember exactly. If you don't have the top end off then there is no way the cases will come apart. the studs would still be in the cylinder and head. I'm sure your way past that part though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The crack is where the cylinder bolts to the ignition side case. The previous owner must have over tightened it and cracked it. I think i will end up parting the motor out because i have too many things to spend money on right now.
 
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