PlanetMinis Forums banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I picked up a true survivor 71 ct 70. I finally received my box of parts and spent the day putting it back together. Everything was working until I pulled an idiot. I had my test light on the +ve post of the battery and it grounded out blowing the fuse, it was not running at the time. Someone had put a 10A in the holder instead of a 7, now the weirdness begins. I replaced the fuse and I still have no power.

If I disconnect the battery there's power between the terminals, connect it and it sucks the life out of the battery. The only things I can think it would be are the rectifier or the stator. When running it produces no power either, but the rectifier gets warm. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
"Someone had put a 10A in the holder instead of a 7, now the weirdness begins. I replaced the fuse and I still have no power."
I would not think that such a small difference in fuse sizes could cause such problems. I too am interested in the answers to the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Definitely you have a short on the + or around there, try to disconnect areas and test continuity by sections, even could be a peeled wire touching the metal. With the short you did something may have melted. Lots of trial and error, good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
These are my thoughts as well. To be fair the wiring is 50 years old and judging by the condition of the bike it's never been touched, points included. I ordered complete stator kit and rectifier. Just waiting on the snail to bring it to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just a quick update, replaced stator and regulator. Fires up and good charge coming off the regulator. Wires coming off the stator were very crispy and fused together in a clump, looked like I just liked out getting it to run in the first place. Still having the issue with connecting the +ve battery wire though. I bypassed the ignition system and am charging the new battery directly off the regulator, if I touch the connection with the bike's +ve lead my test light goes out. Weird weird weird.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So if anyone is following this. Since the last post I discovered the valves were shot and the cylinder was 15 mil out of spec. So I rebuilt the top end and replaced the wiring harness. Got her fired up, charging good then I start hooking stuff back up. Low and behold the same problem with loosing power. I've spent the afternoon swearing and being angry and then it dawned on me, it must be in the dimmer switch. I unhooked everything expect the headlight and wiggled the switch and wiring and from the results I think that's the problem. Another strange thing is the chassis isn't grounded to the battery for some strange reason. I rigged up a temp ground and things are working the way they should.

And now......wait for parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Good to hear, be sure the main switch mount hole in the chassis is paint free so the mass of the switch is grounded. Also the motor mounts, should be metal to metal. I personally runned an additional ground wire around the bike. I am not fan of mass ground only.
Happy weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've finally tracked down the ghost and one other problem. In all the years I've been fixing bikes, cars and equipment I've never encountered this. The brand new headlight bulb I bought is shorting out inside the bulb causing the power drain. One other thing I'm not overly impressed with is that the wiring harness I bought doesn't not have a switched power wire for the headlight, it exists for the tail light but it doesn't go up to the headlight. Easy fix, but not impressed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This just gets more nutty as I go. Hopefully the picture comes through good. I'm in the process of adding a switched power to the headlight. I removed the sheathing off the NEW wiring harness and there's two positive wires just twisted together, no solder, crimp, insulation. Nothing. Like........ are you kidding me?
275912
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,370 Posts
Your HL bulb and spliced wire can be chalked up to the fact that both are cheap Chinese ...but at least they were cheap.

The wire harness has no provision for a switched headlight...but your ignition switch SHOULD. That is the way Honda designed it to work. The repop wire harness is made to be a direct replacement of the original design. There is no on/off switch for the taillight that I'm aware of either tho...just the ignition switch..?

BTW...all of the OTHER connections that are wrapped up in your wire harness are just twisted together too. Some folks unwrap them...solder them up...then re-wrap. But it's not a necessity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Your HL bulb and spliced wire can be chalked up to the fact that both are cheap Chinese ...but at least they were cheap.

The wire harness has no provision for a switched headlight...but your ignition switch SHOULD. That is the way Honda designed it to work. The repop wire harness is made to be a direct replacement of the original design. There is no on/off switch for the taillight that I'm aware of either tho...just the ignition switch..?

BTW...all of the OTHER connections that are wrapped up in your wire harness are just twisted together too. Some folks unwrap them...solder them up...then re-wrap. But it's not a necessity.
Ya, the key switch has a lights off and on positions. The taillight was connected correctly on the switch, but there was no switched wire in the headlight as there should have been. I'm really disappointed in the quality of the harness, the main power was spliced back into the switch for some reason, it looked like a 3 year old did the connection.
 

·
Registered
1970 CT70
Joined
·
150 Posts
it looked like a 3 year old did the connection.
Well, Chinese manufacturers aren’t often known for their gracious humanitarian practices, sadly. To be blunt tho, wiring is just a thing that needs addressed with project motorcycles. I understand your frustrations, i absolutely LOATHE messing with wiring, but that’s just kinda the world we live in. Even the big brands make their stuff as cheaply as possible, but they atleast use the quality materials/practices and are required to adhere to various manufacturing codes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,370 Posts
The way these bikes are wired...the headlight has its own, separate, circuit. That circuit is AC power, directly from the stator...it only works when the engine is running. The taillight runs off of the other circuit...battery power DC.
So if your testing with a meter you have to test for DC, and AC with the engine running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I posted some problems before l, but I'm hoping a new thread may get some attention.

1971 CT 70
New stator, voltage regulator, wiring harness and bulbs.

So.......firstly the wiring harness. Get it installed, realize the switched positive wire for the lights doesn't exist. Pull sheathing off wires, notice bear wires just twisted together, ok. Solder them up with some heat shrink. Add switched wire off ignition switch everything works perfectly with the harness laying across the bike. Install, nothing's working, no power...OK. find a bad diode in the new voltage regulator, bam power. Everything works perfect. Bam, nothing works.

Now I'm.back to my original problem, ground the headlight out with the provided ground wires, everything dies. Take headlight off and it works fine. I've pulled the socket apart and it's fine, the new 40 dollar honda bulb should be fine oh, and now the taillight doesn't work as it once did.

I've rewired hot rods, custom atv electrical installations, rewired houses and for some reason I can't figure out a 6v system with 3 switches and 4 bulbs. I feel like I'm loosing my mind. Would it help if I took it out in the boat this weekend and pitched it into the ocean in about a thousand feet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,370 Posts
BTW...in your original thread...it seemed that you were getting some help...attention...but you stopped updating, or acknowledging the help we were offering.
By starting a new thread, we can't see how far you've come, unless we go back and find the original thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,370 Posts
When you say regulator...there is no "regulator".
There is only a rectifier.


There is no "switch" for the headlight...except for a dimmer switch. High or low are your only choices.
And the wiring DOES have provisions for the DIMMER switch.
The key switch is the ONLY on/off switch for the headlight.

If you wire your bike exactly the way Honda wired it. And use the correct parts. It will all work. I'm not very good at electrical. But I know that it all works correctly when you just put it all together stock.
If you change stuff...the you have to know how to make it work.
.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top