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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is the run down. Had replaced flywheel due to damage to original. Bike started up and idled for a while after swapping flywheel. Took the bike for a ride got to 2nd gear, then as soon as I shifted to 3rd it slowly died and would not start. I thought it was out of fuel as I had not put much in. Added more and it still would not start. Checked points and found they were maxed out in adjustment and less than 0.3mm so I ordered new ones and I had no spark.

Just installed new points and gapped to 0.35mm. They just start to open at the “F” per the manual. It still will not start and I still have no spark. Tried new plug and no spark. Unplugged the connection leading to the stator. I placed a meter on it and using ohms and confirmed points open just a 1/16 after the “F”. I switched to DC and even AC and I see no voltage being registere.

Nothing was changed other than the flywheel between it working and not working. Switched back to the old flywheel and nothing changes. Anything else I can check and how? Thanks all.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I corrected my post as I added a zero. I set them to 0.35mm. Manual say 0.30-0.40 mm Is correct so I split it.
 

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Your original post did not state mm , that's why I posted the setting in inches. 0.016" is 0.40mm
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All good that was my fault. I appreciate the help, I will try .40mm to see if it will fire with that gap but I just struggle to see why that would still not create any spark at all with a gap that’s within spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No change still no spark. i am getting no resistance across the ignition coil, shows no resistance at all. I am guessing the coil is bad as everything I’m reading seems to indicate the should be some resistance across the coil.
 

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If you have a test light, clip it to the black wire coming out of the stator, remove the plug and hand kick the engine over repeatedly to see if the test light flickers. If it does, then test the black/white tracer wire going to the ignition coil to see if you're getting spark there, using the test light again. Make sure the spark plug boot is threaded on snugly, and also make sure the kill switch isn't shut off, its easy to overlook.
 

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Also, make sure the pigtail wire going to the points is in between the two bakelite washers so it isn't shorting or grounding out
 

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Discussion Starter #10
dirtbkr188, thank you so much for your help with this. If you have not seen my intro thread (72 for a 72) the wiring in this thing is hacked up. There is no wiring harness on the bike there is only the ignition stator and the wires are sketchy to say the least coming out of it. there is only one wire coming out of the stator area that goes to the switch then coil.

With the meter connected, opening and closing the points manual opens and closes the circuit so I know that is correct.

Disconnecting to the one wire coming out of the stator area which is directly connected to the condenser is where I have been doing my voltage measurements to eliminate the chance of other connection points. This is where I am seeing no voltage at all.

with so much messed up and missing in there I think I will get a complete rebuild kit and make it right. well more right since I still have no harness I will hook that up temporaril. I had already purchased a new coil and cap as those are in rough shape as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks. I ordered those as well as a few other seals and what not.

i think I may have damaged the coil or something when I had to use the steering wheel puller on the flywheel. Who knows, people do some crazy stuff to keep things running and don’t care about long term issues. My OCD struggles with this! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
in Looking at the harness and online diagrams I am not sure how it will run. It appears the spark plug wire runs under the top tube and is held up with a zip tie.

What has me confused is the wiring harness. It looks like there are holes with grommets in the top of the frame but none of the pictures show the harness going through it. are there any pictures or illustrations that show how it is routed?

I don’t have a on off switch. The headlight switch is being used for that now. I see now reason why I can’t continue to do this since I have no lights. I’m trying to find an on off switch with the grey wire but everyone is out of them.
 

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Those switches are expensive when you can find them.

If you find the black sheathing version, you can just change over the sheathing to grey.
Some folks will modify a common dimmer switch to work, then put a good used on/off cover on it.

I don't remember any wires running THRU the frame on these bikes, but I'm not that familiar with the softails. Honda didn't use zip ties, but they do use a wider plastic strap in a few different places on our bikes. Those straps are available.
 

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There are three holes in the top of the frame for wire routing. The one closest to the front of the bike is where the harness passes through to the underside of the frame. there should be a rubber grommet around the hole. Once it gets to the bottom side of the frame, there is a green wire with a brass ground connector that passes back to the top of the frame through the left hole (also has a grommet,) and then it connects to the mounting post of the coil, under the flat washer. The right hole is not used. The coil connection is made under the frame and is easier to hook up if you pull the harness a little extra through the front hole while you make the connection, then pull it back out when you are done.The gray sheath headlight switch rebuild kits are usually available at hondatrailbikes.com. Working on a few of these right now.
272802
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks Kirby. That is actually the switch I have right now that is being used as a run switch. The actual run/off switch that goes on the right bar is what I do not have. I may have to look at doing what you said a just get one with the black wire cover and change it over to grey. Appreciate the help.

Davm, thank you so much for the help that’s exactly what I needed on the wiring. looks like you have some beautiful examples there.

thank you both for the help. I apologize for the confusion on the switch I feel between my description and the crazy wire done to this thing creates the confusion. You all are a wealth of knowledge.

here is the part I don’t have.
272805
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Davemo. I called them, funny I just ordered a few parts from them this week, and they said the two wire version is gone forever. The one wire is the only option. It’s actually from a Honda rototiller and they modify it to work. Looks like this is the only option beyond a $200 NOS part or one off eBay that looks a little rough.

since I have no lights still, going to have to get new forks before I can get a headlight since the ears were cut, I can use my headlight switch as a run switch like it is now. While I wait to do the other parts I can see if something pops up on eBay that’s in better condition.

thanks again for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay so update.

New complete stator kit, points, condenser, new wiring harness, new coil and new spark plug. Points gapped to 0.35mm and I see them start to open at the “F“ mark on the flywheel. bike would not fire. Pulled plug and held to head and no spark.

Jumped the wires, black and green, that go to the switch to ensure that wasn’t the issue. Still no spark. UGGGGHHHHH!
 

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I would try the test light clipped to the black wire from the new stator kit and ground the tip to the engine while hand kicking it overr to get the light to flicker. That should indicate spark coming from the stator. If the light flickers, you can move along to the next component.
Did you plug in the makeshift kill switch into the new harness? I would try unplugging that and then test for spark with the plug held to the head and see what happens.
 
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