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Is this worth doing? Is it very hard to do? What tools will you need? Is there a good performance gain?



Thanks
 

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Just being honest, if you have to post about it you don't wanna be porting your own head. Send it out to someone that knows what they are doing.



There is a performance gain when done correctly. You do not want to have your intake polished, only your exhaust port. Do some research on engine porting to get the idea ;)
 

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Top port guys On pm, Firepower, Storminnorman, cyclerider. If you look up some of Stormin's work by doing a search his stuff is absolutely phenominal. FP does excellent port work also for very resonable prices. Cycle will give you pointers, I havent heard him chime in on PM in a long time though.



This link has loads of info to read Homework
 

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yep^^^^ just send it to someone.. u have to know how much and where to take the material out.... kinda hard to do by yourself.. but it will help a ton!!!! throw a 26mm carb on it and it will be a good set up!
 

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50rider340 said:
Mike.... Havent heard you chime in Either... LoL



BTW Other top porter is dood.


I'm like a ninja. I'm always around even though you may not see or hear me.
 

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on my stock mod i had my stock head ported and polished when i had my big bore kit put in. Ive ridden both without and with the head ported and there is a pretty good difference.
 

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If you don't know what to do and what to have some fun, just go ahead and mess around with it. That's how most folks learn to get comfy with engine work. Don't be all scared about it...just do it. Tools needed...just normal tools to remove cylinder head and valves...yes, take them out...cam, everything. The surface that you do not want to touch at all is ANYTHING INVOLVING THE VALVE SEAT...at least to start. If you want to get that close to danger, just use JB weld, not JB QWIK, the real slow-setting stuff, and smooth out the transition from the valve seat to the port floor and ceiling.



Other than the above caution, you will need a dremel tool with some sanding drums..with plenty of spare sleeves if you are just getting started.



To get started, use your dermel on a low setting and get the feel for how it eats metal. Start by smoothing out the casting line on both sides of the intake side. Just focus on getting rid of the line without enlarging the intake port. You will see a bunch of shavings, but you aren't enlarging if you just make sure the whole intake runner is evenly smooth with an 80 grit sanding drum. If you use a light touch and don't let the tool sit in one spot, you won't open it up if you are in there for 10 minutes....just pay attention to what you are doing. Sanding drums aren't a "one slip and you're done" thing...unless you get a piece of the valve seat.



Smooth it out so it all has the same finish and you are done for your skill level.



Performance gain - minimal. Confidence gain - moderate.
 

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Trick Daddy said:
If you don't know what to do and what to have some fun, just go ahead and mess around with it. That's how most folks learn to get comfy with engine work. Don't be all scared about it...just do it. Tools needed...just normal tools to remove cylinder head and valves...yes, take them out...cam, everything. The surface that you do not want to touch at all is ANYTHING INVOLVING THE VALVE SEAT...at least to start. If you want to get that close to danger, just use JB weld, not JB QWIK, the real slow-setting stuff, and smooth out the transition from the valve seat to the port floor and ceiling.



Other than the above caution, you will need a dremel tool with some sanding drums..with plenty of spare sleeves if you are just getting started.



To get started, use your dermel on a low setting and get the feel for how it eats metal. Start by smoothing out the casting line on both sides of the intake side. Just focus on getting rid of the line without enlarging the intake port. You will see a bunch of shavings, but you aren't enlarging if you just make sure the whole intake runner is evenly smooth with an 80 grit sanding drum. If you use a light touch and don't let the tool sit in one spot, you won't open it up if you are in there for 10 minutes....just pay attention to what you are doing. Sanding drums aren't a "one slip and you're done" thing...unless you get a piece of the valve seat.



Smooth it out so it all has the same finish and you are done for your skill level.



Performance gain - minimal. Confidence gain - moderate.


well said!
 
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